I'd love to know also if you can see any visible difference between the cylinder heads, be it intake/exhaust tracts or the head volume/contours. I'm not expecting there will be any, however the cams will likely be different between 3LN1 & 3LN6/7
Cam's are different on the 3LN6/3LN7 compared to the 3LN1 3LN3 3LN5 (which use the same cam's) It's all in the part's catalogue- http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/yamaha-fzr250r-3ln1-7-parts-catalogue.10/
thankyou for that, I'd never seen that document previously Interestingly it does list differences for both the cylinder head and cylinders, @joker - you Sir are in the privileged position to see those differences first hand I'd love to know what you can identify them as being
I think... Based on what I have seen is that this is a 3ln3 engine with 3ln5+ Carbies but I will have a closer look. The engine number definitely puts it in 3ln3 but I'll have to compare the bore and cams etc to know for sure, considering the engine was disassembled hence the top end may not be from the same engine. Will let you know what I find.
If the part number on the cylinders is 2kr-11310-02 then they're 3LN6/7 or Zeal barrels - just intrigued to know the differences
Doubt they have the part number cast into it. I do know my 3LN head only has 1HX and 2 other digits below that cast into it on the raised section at the back ( to clear the cam chain.)
So to solve this mystery, I'm pretty comfortable it is as I suspected and it's a 3LN3 engine complete (aligning with the engine number). I only took the 3 photos but having a look at what I had and what I got they're identical apart from being a bit dirty. Bought some JBweld (metal epoxy and high heat putty) from http://jbweldit.com.au/ for the engine casing repair, all up around $30 including postage. I reckon it will do the job ok.
The 2x coolant drain bolt's are different size's Are the cylinder skirt's longer on the MK11 ? might be just the angle the pic was taken at
from that perspective in the photo the sleeves look to protrude further on one set. Any differences in the coolant gallery on the upper portion of the cylinders?
Nah, they're the same trust me. The dirty one is just leaning slightly on some of the locating lugs so it creates a bit of an optical illusion. I can provide more photos if you still have any doubts
yeah it looks like you've scored 3LN6/7 carbs on an earlier engine perhaps the fizzer factory has one of each in parts to do a comparison
So it looks like I may have to split the case afterall, as the clutch lever spins loose 360 degrees. The lever on my "old" engine doesn't, it stops closer to 180 degrees. May be a shaft or something gone inside Also, headlight is a single globe. Is that a later model iteration? My other one is twin.
Single globe headlight might be from another Yamaha. There are a few models that use that. Only one we have with the twin globe setup is the pink one.
Got no issue with the single I suppose in principle, but even with the twin the light/visibility is poor IMO. Surely it would be worse with one globe?
Get Tungsram Superblue globes - BIG difference in light output on the Zeal. When the reg/rec blew it up I replaced it with a Phillips globe from autobarn - absolutely hopeless. Pitiful light output. Put another superblue in as soon as I could.
I really like the lighting on my bike, it light's up the road well. i fitted a Narva Plus 100 bulb to it, 20% whiter light and 100% more light than a standard bulb. I have them in all of my car's too, in the Territory i recently fitted a Narva Plus 120 and that's slightly better again. I've found they are the best bulb's for vision in both wet and dry riding, i tried all the blue tinge bulb's but in the wet you may as well be using a torch. The Narva Platinum and Narva Plus Blue and Narva Arctic Blue don't light up wet road's that good, neither do the Philip's Ultra, Osram Cool Blue Intense or PIAA Extreme The only other one as good as the Nava Plus 100 was the Hella Plus 90
Ins't there a ball bearing on the end of the shaft between clutch cover plate and the pushrod? I don't know this for sure, just assumed there would be one... Anyway I'd take the opportunity to switch bottom ends into the good engine case, plastigauge all of the bearing clearances for peace of mind and do the oil restrictor jet fix on the rod big end to ensure you don't drop another - peace of mind that it's all within spec is a really good thing to have