Question regarding the tensioners. I've heard that they're the same unit as the newer ZZR's/Ninja 250R's - is that correct? ZXR part is 12048-5001 Ninja part is 12048-0040 How about APE manual tensioner? https://store.schnitzracing.com/ape-manual-cam-chain-tensioner-kawasaki-ninja-250-08-13/
Zawasaki are good at parts sharing, but these have different numbers so they are not the same. The ZXR uses a one-way bearing in a tapered tube, most others use a wind-up type. I've seen a couple of different types over my time, all of which can fail. The manual version means paying attention to maintenance yourself. Also, be aware that certain tensioners need particular orientation and clearances or they don't hold or may fatigue.
Ive heard the gpx 250 tensioners are ok, they might be the same as a zzr also, theres wasnt much info about this topic when i was looking,The spring #s are different in some tensioners, ZXRs need part #92081, Kawasaki dont stock part#12048-5001 but they stock the bits individually, I didnt risk a gpx one in the end because of lack of information so I rang Kawasaki told them I had a zxr & they were great for once, they brang up the timing schematics and I ordered just the bits i needed--spring #92081 & bearing#14020 for about 30$ + del
i use part number 12048-1106 for the tensioner(off a gpx i think), really not sure if it is the proper one but have used it for nearly 50,000 k's in my bike and have only replaced the cam chain in my new engine when i got it because it was shitty when i got it. i replace it around 10,000 k's maybe less.
Here's the ones I got from megazip in Japan. Took a couple of weeks for them to arrive. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Excellent, thanks guys, found a 12048-1106 tensioner on ebay in Australia (all the others I would have to get from overseas) so I ordered it. Now is the most boring part of any project... waiting for parts to arrive.
Carby kit arrived so got cracking today. Had a poke around the carbs to look at the float needles & diaphragms, they looked fine so I left them alone. I had some trouble getting the carbs separated, but it's nothing that a dremel and big flat blade couldn't solve. Screws will be replaced with allen heads once the carbs come off again for valve clearances/timing chain/tensioner. Sparks... and a fuel filter since the ZXR lacks one After cutting a slot in 7 of the 8 JIS screws (all had been overtightened), I made some progress Then you remove the long rod with two 8mm spanners/sockets and carefully pull the carbs apart. A sample of the old o-rings... snapped ones are off the vacuum breather tubes... that flat spot should be gone now No other pictures of the carbs, but all the intake valves are coated in muck. Will have to get some more threebond and get it into them ASAP Did a bench sync with the carbs all back together, it's better but still not perfect. That said, I need to borrow a long screwdriver to do up the right 2 carby boots properly, and fix the exhaust leak at the muffler flange... still waiting for my aftermarket exhaust to arrive It started easy enough after setting the fuel tap to prime And here's a video demonstrating how the rattling noise is drastically reduced when in gear and slipping the clutch. I think the clutch basket is the cause of the rattle, I've read its common on Kawasakis. I don't know if slipping the clutch would have any effect on the timing chain or tensioner as the bike was stationary. Opinions wanted. And now, I'm going to crash into bed... been a long evening!
How was the rocker cover, any gouging? Still sounds like the cam chain, they get very rattly & the rocker cover magnifies it, my spare motor has about the best cover I have come across with just a slight bit of rubbing that might only need a new tensioner.
I haven't had the cam cover off yet, but I want to check/adjust the valve clearances and do the chain/tensioner so I'll look at it then.
if it makes you feel better mines super noisy aswell, it does go away when you slip the clutch but the top end is always making some kind of noise that sounds unhealthy. When i open it up it all looks good though.
Right, so after 2 weeks of bungled auspost shenanigans they unsurprisingly didn't attempt to deliver the package, leaving me to do a mad dash to get to the post office before 5pm. I made it and finally got that aftermarket exhaust I've been hanging for. No doubt auspost will ask me to do a survey of my recent "experience" and believe you me I'm going to give them an earful Yes its a knock off yoshi from aliexpress, but it was $80 AUD posted, it fits perfectly, looks nice, and sounds good! Baffle in Baffle out
Sounds better with baffle in .... probably run better with a bit of back pressure Did u buy those stand bobbins?
OK so I thought I had sorted the flat spot between 6k-8k rpm... It's not there when the bike is cold and seems fine when it warms up, but if I turn the bike off and start it hot, the flat spot comes back with a vengeance. I've done the T piece seals so it's not those. The vacuum lines looked OK, and have their clamps on, but I didn't give them a real thorough look. Has anyone else experienced this with their ZXR? Bike is going in for valve clearances/timing chain + tensioner this week so I'll get a chance to have a proper look... for those that have replaced the vacuum lines, did you order genuine parts or go aftermarket? What about the vacuum valve, anyone ever had problems with it? Found a set of the air tubes for the reg/rec so I've ordered them. Got a reg/rec on the way as well, after experiencing a flat battery the other day.
I replaced all my vacuum lines with new silicone turbo lines. Couple of pounds on eBay. Ditched the fresh air valve altogether. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
That sounds like something I will do. What size tubing was it? And how exactly do you remove the air valve and have everything still work?
I think they were 3mm ID. I connected everything up just like the A model. Works great. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk