Fizzball out of mothballs for a bit of pre Texas love ... both leaking slightly Waiting on a visit from the fork doctor via the letterbox riding gear needs a bit of attention also ... move on a few spiders
found some political correctness today- went to pick up the shed side cladding from stramit but could not get it as the sheets were 3oomm longer than the trailer.trailer is 2.8 metres and sheets were 3.1 metres.
Decided that the rear was too stiff, seat too high on the ZXR. Adjusted the shock back from position 4 to position 3 (standard). Also adjusted the headlights after. I have a new crank breather to be fitted to the airbox. Thinking about getting some orange braided brake lines too, fired off an email to HEL Australia but no reply yet...
You mean the zxr, right? You're not expecting the Across to be there, are you? Though, it might be the Across if I don't get the zxr together and working. Looks like I will be wrecking a Daihatsu Sirion - stupid crank bolt won't undo, even broke an extension bar with the rattle gun! So much time and money wasted on it. Time and money that could have gone to bikes, instead. and anger/frustration
Has anyone got a spare brand new forged 101.8mm centre to centre connecting rod laying around by any chance? I'm trying to help a mate out by fixing his engine, it's a $1400AU Daytona Anima 190FDX 4V pitbike engine with a $1000AU MB Factory crank in it, and a $700AU MBF clutch kit A new replacement conrod is going to cost me $570AU inc post from Italy This crank and rod has only done under 5 hour work, and is usually good for at least 50 hour's Mate bought this used crank kit off a guy in UK, but the seller forgot to mention it had been cooked around the gudgeon end of the rod.
Pro-x catalog has dimensions for rods, you might find something compatible there. Rod length isn't as critical, as you can put more gaskets under the cylinder or shave it down a little.
@ShaneP I was doing a timing belt on a toyota diesel decades ago and had the same problem - couldn't get the crank bolt to budge - put a well fitting 6 point socket and breaker bar on it and used the starter motor - worked a treat
Yeah i realise this, in this case a 1.7mm shorter conrod convert's a 150cc engine into a 160cc. What i'm trying to do is drop the piston speed to help with engine longevity, and gain some torque and power. These 190's have 22hp - 23hp at the engine and easily rev out to 12,500rpm My Daytona Anima 190 4V was supplied with an adjustable Digital Transistorised ignition, it feature's a 5 stage rev limiter, and 4 stage timing advance The rpm limiter is set at 11,500 rpm from the factory, and by swapping around a couple of wire's you can change it to, 12,200 rpm, 12,900 rpm, 13,600 rpm or 15,000rpm Peak horsepower is made at around 10,200 rpm's, and peak torque is around 7500 rpm The Daytona 190 4v has 12/1 compression, and are a square engine, 62mm bore and 62mm stroke so has a 1/1 ratio and make some reasonably reliable power out of the Honda Horizontal OHV, single cylinder air cooled based engine that was first used in 1958. I have seen a couple of these Daytona engine's that have failed, usually it's the conrod or the piston failing that's caused it What i want to do is to make it into an oversquare engine, (bigger bore than stroke) to lower the piston velocity which will take a lot of stress off the crank, rod and piston and should all last a lot longer. See pic below. With the increased surface area of the piston and head it increases the area for heat sink so will run a bit happier with higher compression and not be so highly strung as it is. As a comparison the Honda CRF450's are 1.55/1, and F1 engine's can have a ration around 2.5/1 The new configuration has a 72mm bore with a 49mm stroke so that make's the ratio 1.47/1, so the engine i'm fixing is a 200cc version, which give's it a oversquare ratio a touch bigger than the FZR250R's (1.39/1)
You mean with the shorter crank radius with the new crank, then? Changing rod length won't be necessary, just lift the cylinder - though the timing chain might be tight. Notice the 0.4:1 engine diagram has the conrod hitting the cylinder. That's the problem with long stroke and narrow bore.
I might have sold the Across. The guy will come Monday. Interestingly, I found out the Across shares front brake caliper with the zzr250. They're also left-right interchangeable in their design. Those clever cheapskates. Unlike Honda who probably wouldn't use a washer on 2 different bikes, or if they did, they'd list different part numbers...
Started pulling down my original engine so I can split the cases and have them machined to take the 350 barrel...
still working on the shed- put some 4 metre long crossbars in today and straightend some uprights.have put c section on its side every 90cm,s up the sides.now if only i could buy some razor wire.
found my old dial gauge buried in a box marked special tools (also found the very expensive lifter puller tool that I used once,that purchase still bums me out as it wasnt the lifters in the end meh!) So thought id check the runout/hop on my bikes wheels...wasn't to bad less than a mm all the way around...then tuned the spokes, a few dull sounding ones so it does pay to check em now and again....
Have you tried tightening the nut/bolt? this will brake the contact with any corrosion or compound on the thread..also dont use extension bars on rattle guns or braker bars they twist and dampen the torque....front wheel drive cars are a pain because of all the crap between you and the bolt.....
Zeal springs and FZR spacers ready to go ... might take a little persuasion to get them all in Looks like fairings off to jack up the bastard to extend the forks further ... probably needs a scrub under the covers anyway
Nah mate .. they are the original FZRs ... must be the angle of the photo Zeal left , Fizz on the right