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Discussion New Balius. Help!?!

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by Benjamin Smith, May 27, 2018.

  1. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member

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    Hi all I managed to pick up what I thought was a bargain. 94 Balius for $600 with around 38k kms on it. Told it hadn't been running in a year or two ( probably more ).

    Long behold after getting it home it doesn't start, but turns over freely. So I drained and cleaned the tank and added fresh fuel.
    Pulled and inspected the carbs. They were reasonably clean but I cleaned them anyway.
    I found a melted part on the voltage rectifier connection and testing with a meter indicates an open circuit on one side.

    Gapped all the plugs, one of which didn't fire when cranking but after I stopped.

    Dropped the oil witch had fuel in it and am waiting for what I think is the right filter.

    Would the bad rectifier be causing the starting issues?
    Or is there something else I am missing?

    Also spraying "start ya bastard" made the engine give a little hint it wanted to start but never got there.
     
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  2. Wozza

    Wozza Active Member

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    Might be a weak spark...throw some new plugs at it and check that you have a good bright spark...if not check and clean electrical connectors that relate to the ignition system..check the coils and leads...Oh and welcome ;)
     
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  3. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  4. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Welcome to the forum
     
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  5. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member

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    I checked both coils and they're within the specks according to the manual. The leads are all good also except one of the caps has a couple of cracks in it. Also checked the stator and the resistance is the same across all windings.

    I guess I'll need a new rectifier? Where is the best place to source them from?

    And is it possible to check the cdi box with a standard multimeter? The manual says that can damage it.

    I think the fuel in the oil was from someone (maybe me) leaving the tap on prime.
     
  6. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  7. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member

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    In the West. Think I'll have to buy some new plugs as well. I just checked one of them and the spark was jumping from the bottom of the plug to the frame instead of the plug gap.


    15274700987895946829712300771720.jpg
     
  8. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Prime just means fuel will flow to the carbys without the vacuum assistance .... in other words without the motor running .... so it still means the float needle isnt shutting off fuel flow via the float when the bowl or bowls are 'full' ... the rubber tips go hard , not something you can see or really feel hands on
     
  9. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member

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    So I changed the plugs. And she started right up. I also clipped the plug leads as suggested above.

    As far as I know it's been sitting for at least a few years. When I checked the float needles they seemed reasonably soft. I guess when I have some more money I will look at changing them.

    What recommendations do you guys have for R/R's?
    And what thermostat do they take.
    Thanks for all the help so far guys really appreciate it.


    20180528_184924.jpg
     
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  10. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    A new reg/rect will cost you about $150 from here, plus post
    https://www.smallcoilrewinds.com.au/index.php/parts/71-regulator-rectifiers/regulator-24amp-12volt
    The 2x motorcycle electrician's in SA may be able to help you, but from memory they just buy the part's in from interstate.

    Try Craig at Bikelec as he'd be the closest to you, then Betta Bike's at Hackham.

    That used regulator i linked in the post above is a direct replacement for your's too.
    Or you could use a newer secondhand reg/rect off a later model bike and modify your wiring to suit.
     
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  11. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    I would be checking the RR if the bike is now running before spending on a replacement ... as I mentioned before it may have just got too hot and melted the wiring some .... they also need to be clean so the fins can aid the cooling

    rr1.png rr2.png rr3.png
     
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  12. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member

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    I did do the first check mentioned on that page and when checking from the white connector pin I had no resistance to any of the three phases. But had around 5 Mohms on the black to phase checks.

    And do you really need three batteries to do that second test lol.?

    Would it also be worth relocating the RR to a spot where it can receive better cooling?
    Has anyone had experience with such an endeavour?
     
  13. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member

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    Well it starts reasonably easy now. But once started it starts climbing in the revs up to about 8-9 grand.

    This has me stumped but I'll see what I can figure out.
     
  14. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The rev's rising sound's like an air leak between carb's and head, might be a loose clamp or cracked rubber inlet manifold ?

    It's alway's better to mount the reg/rect where it get's cooler air flowing past it.
    You can use some 3mm thick aluminium plate and bolt that to the frame and then bolt the reg/rect to the plate if needed.
    This is an R6 regulator/rectifier conversion i did to my FZR250R


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  15. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member

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    No, turns out im a newb & when I took the slack out of the throttle cable I took out a bit too much slack.

    And I do like the idea of mounting the RR on an aluminium plate for a bit of extra heatsink. Good stuff.
    I wonder if positioning it at the front of the bike would be good.
    Hopefully I get some good hours at work and can afford a new one soon.
    Just need to get my bike licence now so I can ride the bloody thing.

    Will keep this thread posted with anymore questions / resolutions.
     
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  16. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member

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    Hey guys so i got to ride the bike today for the first time, after getting my learners over the weekend.

    Some things ive done since the last post.

    Added a new RR from an '11 ninja 250, and a new RH switch block from the same bike. Both straight bolt on.

    20180619_174432.jpg 20180619_174422.jpg

    But i do still have a question.
    The temp light comes on ( while still very cold ) when moving the handle bars.

    Has anyone had this issue hand how did you resolve it.

    It was great to ride even jist for the 5 minutes, just need to sort this out and i can take her for a proper spin.
     
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  17. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    That fault indicates a broken wire or short somewhere.
     
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  18. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member

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    Yeah i figured it would be something along those lines. Is there a way to test the temp sensor itself?

    I'm having problems with the idle. It wants to either idle at 6k or falls down too low and stalls.
     
  19. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    You have air leaks and/or the carb balance is out of sync.

    Temperature sensors are fairly simple, their resistance value changes with temperature. If you suspect it is faulty, replace it. They are cheap. Then you can also check the wiring at the same time.
     
  20. Benjamin Smith

    Benjamin Smith Member

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    20180622_165601.jpg
    Hmm I guess the float needles may need to be replaced after all. All the plugs are out and ive given it a crank ( fuel went everywhere ) hopefully it dries out and hasn't ruined the brand new oil.

    Waiting on the seal kit from Litetek guess ill order the float needles as well.

    Looks like ill be bound to 4 wheels for a while.
     
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