Drag Racing 1978 Suzuki TS185 Nostalgia Bike

Also, if you weld a plate to the bottom of the frame you will have to remove the engine to change the clutch cable.

Yes, I saw that the DT250 clutch cable connects under the engine. I was thinking of trying to find a way to access the lever without getting the engine out. I think some engine/stone guards have a hole in them for access to oil drain plugs, so maybe do something like that if I put a plate in the bottom. I don't want to overthink this project too much. I'll be more than happy if the new tyres fix the head shake, so I can then get onto the engine.

 

Thanks Andy. As I only intend to race this thing in a straight line, my main goal is stability. If it had 200hp, then I'd have to factor in squat, traction, wheelstands etc. If you look at any purpose-built drag bike you'll notice they all have a severe rake on their front ends. They run steering dampers only because the rules say they have to. Even when they put the front wheel down after a wheelie the bike doesn't shake it's head and the bike continues to go in the direction it is pointing. This is regardless of the angle of the front wheel when it makes contact with the ground. The extreme rake makes steering almost impossible under acceleration. These are all things I will not have to worry about.

 

That's exactly right Ruckus. 149mm is a lot of trail, so should be seriously stable, plus I haven't changed the rake so should still go around a corner without pitching me into the weeds. All theory at the moment. Looking to get those new tyres on and seeing what effect they have on the bike. Steering head stems ordered, so they'll be my next change.

 

Great score @Murdo this site is gold...

https://www.rexs-speedshop.com/prod...al-power-competition-electronic-ignition-kit/

General Question...Is this all I need to go CDI?

 

For anyone, like me, who know's jack about points and condensers...

https://www.hunker.com/12226169/how-to-test-a-condenser-in-a-small-engine

 

Again, the frame and suspension is STANDARD Suzuki. There is no longer shocks or different wheels, it is just as it left the Suzuki factory as a trail bike.

Yes. I'm not saying they are different. First pic is where the chain was attacking the frame. Second pic is the chain laid out as suggested. I couldn't see any twisting or high spots. It's very dirty, but a bit of Kero will solve that. It has 2 master links in the chain, but that shouldn't make any difference? Not sure why this chain was smashing into everything around it.

 

The Rex's Speed shop CDI conversion will give better and hotter sparks than a standard Yamaha set up, and is adjustable for timing. The kit will be all you need.

So, this is the other flywheel and bits in the box, but I'll wait a while before doing the CDI conversion. As Ruckus said, it's a bit $$$.

 

Well, there is definitely a LOT of movement somewhere. As I previously stated, this thing vibrates like a jack hammer. The Swingarm bushes actually look and feel not too bad. Engine mount rubbers are not good and the bolts don't fit properly as there is about 2mm of play in all the engine mounting orifices.

I haven't had a twin shock rear end for a very long time and I can't recall if the shocks are meant to move? These you can turn by hand, so they're not tight on their mounts. I might post some more pics tomorrow as there are a few bits on the frame that look like they've been added on. There's also the area around the custom engine mounts for the DT250 engine that I need to confirm the changes with @Murdo

 

Lucky last post for the night. The bike is down to the frame now, so when tyres arrive, I'll get stuck into putting it all back together.

 

YZ250D specs and airbox/filter. Looks like the original bike ran a 36mm carb. I'll have to check this carb tomorrow, but I do seem to recall @Murdo saying it was a 38mm. The main jet size on this spec seems much larger than what we're running. They're running 20:1 premix, we're running 50:1 (98/full Syn).