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Project Project SRX250

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by edwardo, Apr 5, 2020.

  1. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I agree with @2valve with the polished fin outers.. if you do an image search on the 51Y all the "factory" pics of brochures etc show them polished.
    The 1991 3WP version (mine is based on that model) had the plain silver engine and was only a naked bike... no fairing or belly pan option although I do have a belly pan for mine.

    Hope all of that helps your decision making.. it is tough sometimes... do you stay stock... do you fit massive front dual discs with FZR600 forks etc... dont go there.. ask me how I know :commando:
     
  2. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    This one looks like it's off a newer 3wp, the linkage bit is a bit different, only caught it on second viewing.
    I "watched" the item on eBay and got an offer from the seller @ $10usd + postage. Turned out to be around $60aud total. I already have a second set now so if someone else needs a spare, maybe try watching it. If you don't get an offer I'd be happy to do the transaction using my offer.
    Just hard to see condition of doglegs with only one pic.
    Will defo check those fuel lines. I'm not heaps fussed on those parts, will prob just chuck on a hose clamp or maybe the wire ones to stop pinching and damaging of the hose.

    Think I'll go black motor polished fins then. But hard to get the polishing right though, initially I would have done the whole fin but on inspection of those pics it looks like it's just the flats/straights of the fins.

    I don't think I'll be going that far although my forks are pretty divy...

    I bought some preload adjusters and will bung them in to see if they help.

    Speaking of suspension, I did read some posts about r6 shock. Did that pan out ok?
     
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  3. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I think the black barrel with the outer side's of the fin's cleaned up look's good.
    It's pretty easy to do as well, just get a hard sanding block with some 320 w&d paper and rub it across from one side to the other until you get a nice even pattern.
    You can go finer and finer with the sandpaper if you want to polish them too
    0000 steel wool from Bunning's also bring's them up shiny

    On my XT250 i just bead blasted the barrel and the head, the rest of the engine and cover's etc were just rubbed back with 400 w&d to remove and chip's and casting dag's etc then etch primed with Protec black etch primer, and finished off with the Duplicolor satin black engine enamel which was baked on and it's held up well.
    If you ever spill petrol on it make sure you wipe it off quickly with a damp rag, letting it sit may make the paint fry up


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  4. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Nope to the R6 shock... too much modification to the top shock mount and the Airbox for me to do.. I have seen SRX250's set up for racing in Japan with remote canister rear shocks but they are an expensive option and most of the guys doing that are running an FZR250 swingarm and they change the dogbone links in length to alter the rear geometry... just not worth doing with the 51Y or 3WP pivot and cast linkage.
    If you are concerned about your rear shock.. message @2valve as I am pretty sure he had his shock rebuilt.

    I am running an FZR250 rear shock on mine as it works with the 3WP swingarm etc.. the 51Y shock etc has a different lower mount.
     
  5. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah had done a bit of reading on polishing up the fins. Seems pretty straightforward enough.
    Speaking of beadblasting.. I was just out in the garage trying to clean up the motor and it's an oil paint peeling mess. Thought I could just clean it, prep it and slap on some paint. Looks like I might need to blast it...

    Can it be done on the bike? Don't want to have to disassemble it all too much.. open up a can of worms etc

    I see. I'll just leave mine alone I think. I have seen some places that service them and all and thought it might be worthwhile. Once I get it all together we'll see how it handles.
     
  6. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    If you have any issues with getting very small fuel hose for the carby. I can send you some Tygon fuel hose to suit.It's yellow though , so it's going to stand out. The O.E clamp's will not fit though , the wall thickness is very thin.

    Had to purchase a meter of each fuel size's , so have heap's of the small fuel line sitting in the shed.
     
  7. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    As Andy has commented , iv'e had my shock rebuilt , it wasn't leaking oil etc and felt pretty good being a very basic rear shock , it was given a good test before the bike was stripped. But being 35 plus year old , thought it was way over due for a service. One of the main reason's why i had it serviced is to get it set up for my weight , i don't think these shock's where designed for fat guy's like myself. The difference after the rebuild was amazing , felt so much better. I would have liked to fit a far superior rear shock and still would like too , but i didn't want to change to much on the rear suspension to make it fit. Plus the money needed would have been more than getting my stock shock rebuilt.
     
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  8. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Nice. Who did the shock rebuild for you?
     
  9. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah would love to know who did it and pricing? There's Hoey's Racing in Adelaide. Looks legit but maybe a bit too high end for me

    As for fuel lines I thought I was gonna hit up supercrap and just get some black hose there.

    Getting a quote from a media blaster on blasting my motor. I priced up all gaskets etc if I was to take it apart + stuff I uncover and thought bugger that. At the moment I think I will just stick to valve clearances and maybe valve stem seals.

    I will probably get around to changing the clutch disks too. Anyone have any feedback on brand? Plenty OEM kicking around + steel plates but I've seen some cheap sets on fleabay.. worth the headache if they are crap?
     
  10. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Murdo and Ed. Shock was rebuilt by Rad Motorcycle shock repair's in QLD. Spoke to the Rodney the owner and had a chat over the factory shock rebuild and what was available to suit. But in the end had mine rebuilt / pre-load shim fitted for my weight ( Fat ). I would have liked to fit a better shock that had adjustable dampening so i could set the bike up way better , just like Andy's Guided Missile will be. Was quoted $220.00 and that also included the return freight.The bike isn't a GP bike , so the stock shock will do for the time being.
    I may have to wait until i can visit Andy , and while he's not looking knock the complete rear end off his bike. He'll never notice , he has to many bloody bikes anyway :fuckyou:.

    https://radmotorcycleshockyrepairs.com.au/index.html

    Ed , if you change your mind on the carby fuel hose your after , just reach out.

    Regarding the clutch plates , i have a set of them in the shed made in the USA. Found them while talking to one of my part's supplier's. At that time i was un-sure what my clutch plates where any good or not.
    I'm no expert as some of the guy's on here are , but i wouldn't purchase cheap plates.If they started slipping OR started to fall apart they'd make an awful mess through the engine.You want no slipping at all when you dump the clutch , or even worse when you roll the power on and the rev's go up but the speed doesn't reflect the rev's your doing.
     
  11. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Finally got the frame and other bits from the powdercoater.

    Frame looks good. They said they'd prime the swing arm for paint as the silver powder coat they had was very sparkly.. Looks like the swing arm has been powdercoated grey. Nice. Scuff back and paint yeah? Could be wrong, could actually be a primer. Looks like grey powdercoat to me. Any who.

    They also stripped the triple clamps. The steel lower clamp looks good. The aluminium top clamp is chewed to buggery.. Didn't think would use the same media for the whole lot? Doesn't look great, it is very rough and porous looking. They also blasted the shank of the lower triple clamp even though I had it all taped up and covered with pipe. Nice.

    Hesitant to get the motor blasted now.. might just have at it with paint stripper and soft wire wheels.

    Apart from that, got plenty of parts waiting to go on. Missus cracking the shits that I get packages every week haha
     
  12. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Ed
    Well , the first part of the story sound's great that you've got your frame / swingarm back.
    The local paint expert (my67xr) will be along soon to steer you in the right direction regarding paint.

    The lower triple clamp is steel and the top part is alloy , so yes the operator of the sand blaster should have used two different media's :headbang:. The operator should have checked before starting what the part's where made of.

    Any pictures of the damage OR is it in the next street over after being thrown !.Are we looking for another top triple clamp ?.

    If the missus is upset already , i'd be really hesitant to use the oven at this time to bake the high temp paint with.Well isn't what oven's are used for ?.:lolsign:
     
  13. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Actually pretty chuffed with the frame, looks good to me.

    Forgot to get a pic of the top triple clamp but it looks pretty bad haha oh well. I guess I should have been clearer when dropping off at the blasters.

    Here are pics of frame and swingarm. Will get a pic of triple clamp tomorrow. And yes, currently on the lookout for one that hasn't been eaten away! Performance wise probably unaffected but looks crap.
     

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  14. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Ovens have a use other than baking on high temp paint? Didn't know! Hahaha
     
  15. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Yes , the frame / swing arm looks a lot better than rusty paintwork. You'll need some metric thread chasers to clean up the threaded bolt holes on the frame though.
    Not good news though on the top triple clamp being destroyed. Picture would be handy. Have already text one guy that may have one , waiting for a reply.
    Regarding the oven. Well I suppose you'd be able to bake a cake in it if you'd like to. But baking paint in them would be more fun wouldn't it ?.
     
  16. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Here are pics of the triple clamp. Also this is the dupli-color high temp aluminium colour if anyone was wondering what it looks like.


    IMG_20200614_114321.jpg IMG_20200614_114338.jpg IMG_20200614_114414.jpg
     
  17. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Pretty heavy media was used on the top triple tree.
    I'd try some heavy clear over it and see what you think to smooth the feel of it , it's worth a try first.
     
  18. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    What I would do is contact @my67xr to see if he might smooth it all out with his Aqua blaster... it cant do any more damage and might make it a better visually...
     
  19. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Cheers for the suggestions. Yeah it's pretty rough. I was thinking of bogging it up and sanding back.. lot of effort though..

    Didn't think they would hit it with the hard stuff.

    All I need to do now is strip the engine back and paint then it's all reassembly. Called around and found a place that will do a complete motor.
     
  20. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah the finish look's pretty course

    You could use KBS Rust Seal on it if you strip/blast that Duplicolor paint off,
    it's a high fill, self levelling primer that can be brushed on or sprayed, it cost's $29.50 for 250mls from Lonsdale paint and anyone else that sell's it
    https://www.lonsdalepaints.com.au/

    I reckon if you strip it then give it a quick rub back with 320 sandpaper, next brush on 2 coat's of Rust Seal and let it dry, it will be easy to sand smooth enough for a flat top coat
    Rust seal is a super tough chip resistant finish and is available in Gloss Black, Satin Black, Grey and Silver
    Once you scuff it back when cured you can top coat it with whatever you want, i have used it quite a bit on different project's

    [​IMG]



    Getting your engine blasted just watch out for any grit/media getting through the lip's of any seal's etc
    And if you want the top clamp vapor blasted let me know and i can do that for you, i am south of the city near Marion
     
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