In my limited experience, i dont think the timing is adjustable. The slotted bolt is just a cover to inspect the flywheel and timing marks. The actual top dead centre mark is on the side of the flywheel, to see it you gotta take the whole cover off. I made the mistake confusing the two doing the valve clearances. Are the spark leads attached to the right plugs?
Ahhh, correct - it's just a screw-in plug. Leads were labelled. Clearances were fine BTW (28k on the clock)
Does it try to start at all? Any spluttering or sounds like its trying to run? Maybe double check exhaust isnt blocked anywhere? Wasp nest or something will stop anything running
Have you checked the float height's/fuel level's ? How many turn's out are your mixture screw's ? Is the choke on full? If the engine is firing, you should be able to feel a slightly warm exhaust pipe up near the head The timing mark's are inside the engine case around the flywheel, take the stator cover/stator off the engine on the r/h side Picture courtesy of @Linkin Timing mark's on the end of the cam's should also be lined up close to the dot's on the rail's, that's if the engine is on TDC for cylinder 1 on the compression stroke
Ahhh, coupla coughs when the exhaust is removed. Strange, can pump air thru easily. Going back to take idle screws from 2 to 3 turns out.
OK - just putting this out there, have you had the cams out to do valve clearances? If not, do you know if perhaps they'd been out previously to do same. We had someone here who was given a non-runner, same issue, similar symptoms - popping, but not running - turns out that when head had been done by P.O., cams went back into wrong positions Exhaust <-> Intake swapped - no damage done From memory IN & EX is cast on the cam between cylinders 1 & 2 You can do a quick visual check, TDC - cylinder 1 firing should have those cam lobes for cylinder 1 pointing outwards - i.e exhaust cam lobes going to turn onto the buckets and the intake lobe a long way from rotating onto the buckets
Sat eng over an oilfilled radiator for a few hours. Now runs, revs, but with problems (probs orig reason for having been left, then sold). Going offline awhile - thanx for the support. In return, the base 3LN manual (untranslated)... https://www.facebook.com/groups/341995172651113/permalink/1462176730632946/
It had pretty black CR9EK dual sparks, tried CR8E and getting better - but still have a prob of running on 3cyls. Either 1 or 4, or both, are cold. Trimmed lead ends, measured resistance end-end of 33kOhm (which is same as 2&3). Thinking of putting in a couple hotter - any advice re CR7E, or CR7EB, or CR7EH-9 (shorterthread)?
Measure mains, I’ve seen many, many cases where jets were drilled put by POs thinking that would give them more power.
You can edit your threads @DannoXYZ . I have to do it all the time because I am not politically correct
I'm getting more & more confused. Euthanasia is looking good. The float can sit at 3 positions: the backstop (pictured), just touching the needle, and with spring compresses(sealed off). What height do I set a 3LN6 pls??? 18mm shown (excuse the camera parallax error), then rotate the body off the mounted position and get 12mm as it rests on the valve spring
IIRC, @my67xr and I nailed it down to exactly 14.7mm float height, well that's what he's checked and measured it at for best performance on his 3LN3, the fuel height is 10.5mm WHOOPS should actually answer the question, it's measures with the float just touching the spring and not compressing it
Yeah 14.7mm is perfect in my 3LN3, same height as 3LN5, 3LN6 and 3LN7 So where your's measure's 18mm, it should be 14.7mm with the float tab just touching the pin in the end of the needle (needle and seat)
This is the 'tool' i made for setting my float's, i used a piece of icecream container lid, With the float sitting at this angle, the float tab is only just touching the tip of the needle