This is ny home made Manometer, i used water with red food colouring, but thick oil would be better as the water was sucked up one of the tube's quickly when it wasnt synced I also made some screw in hose barb's for the intake manifold's, standard genuine intake manifold's are M6 x 1mm thread, aftermarket manifold's are M5 x .75mm thread You can buy the vacuum barb's off ebay etc too Not long after i made this, i ended up buying a good used Morgan Carbtune for $50 I have used it about 5 or 6 time's now, it's a lot easier than using the home made one The voltage regulator / rectifier is mounted under the left side rear fairing, back a little bit from the flasher can and EXUP relay I upgraded mine by fitting a good used reg/rect off an R6, only needed a new 6 terminal plug and socket and i mounted it to some 3mm aluminium plate to heat as a heatsink https://www.jaycar.com.au/automotive-6-way-plug-socket-250-series/p/PP2068 When you are testing the battery voltage with the engine running, the battery must be fully charged first, eg reading over 12.6v
Balancing the carbs or going for a blood transfusion? Your vacuum take off ports look like they are easy to get at.
Ignition control box Shindengen SH569 - look on this page - it will most likely be the lower one in the picture of the two with the black potted resin upper https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/shindengen-regulator-rectifiers.10005/
so where is my reg? will that SH569 work with a lithium battery? so does the stator just output a AC current relative to RPM and the reg/rec turns it to DC and a set amp and voltage?
I am not an electronics expert by any means but to the best of my knowledge, the problem occurs if the reg-rec charges at too high a voltage. Aftermarket versions are starting to appear on the market to deal with this issue. https://adventuremotorcycle.com/tech-n-tips/rmstator-mosfet-voltage-regulator https://www.rmstator-europe.com/en/...tifier-atv-utv-motorcycle-snowmobile-pwc.html https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/blog/lithium-ion-friendly-rec-reg-now-in-stock/ https://www.motoelectrical.co.uk/ty...er-atv-utv-motorcycle-snowmobile-pwc-scooter/ I did plan to get some made here but we never have enough capital for all of the ideas that pop into my head.
I went as far as finding battery management modules with a view to just making my own LiFePo4 battery - they're out there, not expensive, but I do recall not being able to locate the perfect rectifier/regulator for the appropriate charge voltage I'll go back to the idea when time permits
Did you look where i said ^ ? Otherwise it may be near the starter solenoid ? It has 3x white wire's and a red wire going to it
Clean the terminals, the plug may give some evidence if you've got connection problems, plenty have melted from arcing Check the stator resistance - the three white wires Clean the earth both on the back of the rectifier/regulator and the bolts where it grounds to the bike frame - reattach - plug it back in, start he bike then through the checks - AC voltage output between the three white wires and the voltage output from the regulator @ ~5K RPM - should be above 14.3 volts or therabouts If it isn't then consider the straight replacement or upgrade options that are available
ok so not 100% sure how to use my multimeter but I set it to 200 ohm range and got three readings from the three white wires on the reg plug. 17.2 17.6 1.6 the resistance of the meter itself was 1 does this mean a coil in my stator is stuffed?
There's some resistance there - straight short, i.e. no resistance would indicate melted insulation on a coil and open circuit would indicate a completely blown one I'd be looking at the plug and if you can remove the blade receptor from the plug check it for corrosion where it's crimped to the wire itself Best option would be to cut off the connectors and recrimp with new ones. FWIW - I once had a Ford Laser which would just refuse to turn over sometimes, one day out of frustration I hit the ground strap to the engine with a hammer and it came good - recrimping another connector solved the problem for good, it just had a build-up of verdigris corrosion on the copper You may have the same issue
What does everyone use to get the terminals out of the plug? also the company I bought the battery off is replacing the battery again so I think i will replace the rec regardless so that its better for the lithium battery.
The standard Reg-Recs on the little bikes are junk. When they fail and overcharge they are likely to damage the TCI unit, so false economy.
If you're going to get a replacement, the same one, which is a potentially expensive exercise as @maelstrom has pointed out, they have two modes of failure, one is not outputting sufficient voltage, which means you drain your battery and the bike no longer goes VROOM. The other failure mode outputs excessive voltage and overcharges the battery and damages other components. This is the replacement plug for the OEM rect/reg https://www.jaycar.com.au/automotive-4-way-plug-socket-250-series/p/PP2066 Regardless of which path you take, cute the wires and check the resistance readings again for the stator in case that is problematic also
ok guys so I bit the bullet and bought a new reg/rec. It was expensive but from what has been said here and my own research I think it will pay off in the long run. It is much larger than the original but I think I have a mounting spot in mind and potentially a way to aid in cooling. however there is still something not right with my stator. I may have somebody who can rewind it but apparently he hates doing it for stators. the resistance come up to spec for two coils after I cut the plug off and tested straight to the wires but the third sits at around the resistance of the meter itself. I will have a better look at it today. I also received my new lithium battery this week. so things are getting close.
Ok had another look. now I'm more confused. I removed the stator and tested it while removed and got a resistance of 1.6 ohm across all three wires on the plug with three wires in it. Does the stator need to be in place to test the resistance? It looks in good condition should I wire up the new reg and run it and see what happens? I don't want to damage my new reg or battery.
Those resistance readings are perfect You could check that if wiggling the wires in the sheathed harness makes it go short between two coils because of breached insulation, or open circuit because of a broken wire If you want to be fussy rewire it back down at the output wires from the stator itself, BUT you may actually have a case of if it ain't broke don't fix it See if you can replicate that odd reading, having the stator removed has no influence upon the resistance reading between the coils, you will have moved the wires from the stator to the plug in the process, so that is the only thing which has changed
ok so I'll do a bit of rewiring and try and make a new battery box and reg mount. the reg also came with some dielectric grease. Is it a good idea to smear that around all my connections? Also this reg say negative to battery I assume I can just earth to the chassis?