Project 1994 ZXR250

Gday

This will be a slow burn i think. As mentioned in the New Members section, I picked this little guy up last weekend, It hasn't run in 3.5 odd years.

My plan is to inspect the tank, overhaul the carbs, check air filter, replace all fluids ... basically get it safe and address any issues along the way. I might compression test it while I've got it apart also. Happy to take suggestions

I gave it a good clean this morning as I hate working on dirty bikes, it came up pretty nice I think. Next job is drain the tank which I have started doing as I cannot get latch open just yet. I'd rather the tank was as empty as possible before I do any drilling if I need to go down that road.

So hook up a bit of hose, switch it to PRI and nothing... blow a bit of air up the fuel line, can hear bubbles in the tank but no flow. Try initiate vacuum using a big syringe when switched to ON or RES - nothing. Syringe some fuel out of the fuel line at last I get some flow happening - smells pretty off !

After a bath


Fuel Cap


Draining Fuel

 

Success on the fuel cap ! After a few days of penetrating oils, I used a small sharp centre punch to rotate the barrell with the key inserted - the key would turn to the point of engaging the latch.

Thanks @GreyImport for the tips.

 

I might be OK with a good flush to clear all the debris.



My question is - has this tank had a liner poured in it or is that standard zrx issue ? Appears nearly black and pretty uniform.

Airfilter is done and disentegrates when you look at it, hopefully the split occurred in storage and not in service, the airbox is spotless so I think that's the case.

 

A small progress update...

New air filter and litetek kit delivered - thank you @maelstrom.

I've started stripping the carbs down and the first negative thing i've found is the airbox to carb seals are missing in action

 

And more of the story, pictures are good at talking .... the smell though !


Overall the carbs look in good, un-butchered condition. Damn the screws holding the bank together are tight, I'm going to carefully apply some heat as my attempts to undo them have failed so far. Slides needed some jigging to loosen - essentially glued shut on the needle from all the gunk.

Lucky for me I have been able to borrow an ultrasonic cleaner which should make the job less sucky.

To be continued ....

 

I have recently picked up a set of JIS screwdrivers - should have had them many moons ago. I'll try heat first and resort to hammers if that doesn't work.

RE: the headache - I definitely felt the affects of the day after, felt very average and that was with open windows and doors.

I also have a blasting cabinet and might give them a wet soda blast if I dull the bodies in the ultrasonic cleaning process. I might try some ct18 or Dobatex Gold diluted at 100:1 to start with.

 

So the highly regarded theebond cleaner is this one ?

https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fl...engine-conditioner-240ml-6601n-240/p/A9412003

 

Thanks very much @GreyImport You guys do a great job running this forum by the way

 

Update:

At the risk of being a one trick pony, bank screws loosened using a sharp punch and getting a small rotation to happen - I recently acquired a 'proper' vice, made all the difference. OEM JIS screws replaced with M5 square head Allen screws.


I didn't source any threebond engine conditioner locally so I just used what I had (Motul Carb Cleaner) and did numerous cycles in the ultrasonic bath, rinsing with hot water and drying with compressed air each time. Last bath I tried Shell Dobatex as the detergent instead of CT18 - I should have stuck with CT18 as the Dobatex did have a darkening affect on the aluminium. It is a more alkaline strong product, lesson learned I guess.



Litetek seals installed. All original seals still in tact (minus airbox seals), however they were all due for replacement and had gone hard, worn square or had started cracking.


My latest challenge is getting the diaphragms to seat properly in the carb body groove to obtain a tight seal (no tears) - 2 out of 4 are good to go ... to be continued.

 

Hi Blair

Just for my own sanity ... is the breather tube I have Kawasaki part no. 92005-1204, or 92005–1314 ... or something else ?

You've done well to spot the difference as I see them as identical.

I trust your judgement and experience though, I'm just confused (I am often)