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Help I found something weird... 3LN3

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by gyro gearloose, Mar 7, 2023.

  1. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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  2. gyro gearloose

    gyro gearloose Active Member

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    conclusion has been reached.

    someone here may not like it. a part may need to be re-designed. new moulds. expensive.
    this has been one hell of a puzzle.
    i will post various pics here, hopefully...

    so. think about it.
    the needle and jet should have no bearing on slow speed.
    we have no control over the slide position anyway, thats vacuum. we only control the butterfly. a tiny portion of fuel will pass the needle and jet, only under abnormal conditions...what we have here.

    the vacuum of the engine should be behind the butterfly, not the slide, and as soon as the butterfly opens, the slide, and needle/jet, should be lifting...

    now, my test with the fuel level as it did its thing, showed its fuel level dependent.
    i suspected that nut.

    i long suspected the bung and seal, yet on thinking... those ports feed directly to the intake. if it was leaking, then the thing should be hydroloacking as the cylinder floods... a whole bowl of fuel should dump through those little holes. it doesnt.
    And... why all four cylinders? Why not one?

    Theres something common, across all four carbs.
    Its not ignition (though clean plugs not covered in rust sure helped!).
    its not valve timing...
    its (no longer) intermittent.
    when i threw some aviation sealant in on a gasket it worked great... for a week then came back....
    a new seal kit didnt fix it, but made it WORSE.

    threw teflon washers under nuts, and it sort of fixed it, slightly. not.


    last night i thought. i thought. then i looked...

    sorry maelstrom... JH-003...

    its too thin. i really only see "squish marks" on the corners. every time ive pulled it down ive been a bit suss about the amount of fuel im finding in that area...

    it may be a manufacturing tolerance thing with these housings. batches? I got about 0.9mm for the recess. Didnt measure your seal though...

    i set up some wet n dry on the surface plate, carefully attacked the locating nub with a file to give me a lil bit more room, then ground approximately 0.2mm off the jet housing.

    and this morning?

    it started. it ran. it rode pretty well. best it has since this developed.

    except, i feel its still doing it on one or two cylinders. my grinding was pretty inconsistent. i lost my verniers. (only here cus i cant find my fence clip pliers and im trying to put mesh up for a roof and yeah... try tearing carbs apart then suddenly remembering you have no roof as the rain starts...)

    so, this teardown... either i clear off the mill and flycut that surface so theyre all about 0.5mm deep, or shove the old seals ive had soaking in xylene for two years in... nice and squishy now!

    mill has to get cleared off, new rear sprocket for the R15, and i gotta modify it... sigh. ***** to find parts for.

    so, im going on this theory that the housing is leaking, and thats the bit that separates everything from everything. choke, idle, main, air orifices, everythings passing through that freaking join. and this has been the one change ive made that has not only slightly improved it, or simply made it worse... its made it nearly... almost... perfect.


    seriously, i recall this little thing where i could just upload images but all im getting is insert url or upload file with nothing... ffs i hate computers.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2023
  3. Gen

    Gen Well-Known Member

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    " i recall this little thing where i could just upload images but all im getting is insert url or upload file with nothing... ffs i hate computers."
    Try "upload a file" ;)
     
  4. gyro gearloose

    gyro gearloose Active Member

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    Stupid stinking effing bleeding...

    sort of easy from the phone?

    Needles. Perfect though theres a touch of corrsion at the tip. The ones in bike are better.
    20230313_113848.jpg
    Needle jets. (Emulsion tubes, not). Perfect.
    20230313_113837.jpg
    What i did... major improvement.
    20230312_210714.jpg
    Teflon washers. Slight improvement.
    20230311_105331.jpg
    The REAL emulsion tube is hiding... under main jet.
    20230227_075052.jpg
    Now, some more about my original topic... the slides and inserts!
    This is the amount of opening with the little bridge in insert#1 just uncovered. Also equates to idle with air box off...
    20230312_102238.jpg
    With the full bypass channel thingy uncovered... this is about where the slide hits when blipping the throttle... and #2 is the same... except you can see the "bridge" here... insert #1.
    20230312_102226.jpg

    And so...

    This slide stuff aint got anything to do with the flood/bog... but it is a factor in fine tuning, transition, idle....

    Comeon guys... maybe i should start a poll?

    Have a peek inside the throats, see which carbs have these "bridges", if you are good on levels you can eye the slide cutaway to the needle jet, tell if its sloping left or right...
    And how the bike runs/starts!

    Maybe we can reach a consensus on the best way to install these things... majority rules?
     
  5. gyro gearloose

    gyro gearloose Active Member

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    Lol, whattya think i tried?
    Who knows where those uploads went?
    Not i!
    Iunno. From Pc, its finding a usb cable, find theres no thumbnails, opening up in image viewer, cross referencing oddball names, and then hitting "open" and nothing happens!

    Phone did its own thing... "surely you only want to see recents from work? What? You dont? Well im going to make you hunt for them then... i dont care that theyre all in one folder. I'M in charge around here!"

    Sigh. Story of my life...
     
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    Last edited: Mar 13, 2023
  6. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  7. gyro gearloose

    gyro gearloose Active Member

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    another ride later...
    hates that 30km crawl behind morons. slowing down for corners. that 1/8th throttle below 6k...
    get it in a straight line and past the cough...
    weeee. this is how theyre supposed to go! i forgot how the clutch loves to slip...

    so yeah. its down to one cylinder. no more WOT chugging with fuel off, just one cylinder kicking in and out, occasionally maybe two on what seems every time i back off.

    got real keen grinding the first one, was getting pretty bored by the 4th... 0.1mm might make all the difference...

    make a lil jig for the mill and wack them all out even, reckon its done. issue sorted.
     
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  8. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    What is the fuel height set at?
     
  9. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    No, all the standard Yamaha Jet Housing seals for BDST are 1.15mm in thickness (nominal) and our JH-003 are 1.14 to 1.15 on four that I just measured. Also Fluorosilicone will swell about 13% when immersed in gasoline. If this is the problem then it would be the fault of Mikuni not us. Also, compression molded parts of this cross section have a tolerance of about +/- 0.08mm. To make that tolerance tighter they would have to be injection molded and that is never going to happen for such a low volume part. If our part were undersize then there would be hundreds of Yamaha owners wanting to kill us due to their 'chugging'. And finally, if this were the issue then as the standard part shrinks and becomes brittle, as it does, then all of those Yamaha owners would have the same problem.
     
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    Last edited: Mar 14, 2023
  10. gyro gearloose

    gyro gearloose Active Member

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    Well... grinding these housings has been the only thing that has worked. And, after eliminating ALL possibilities, there can be only one.

    Theres a lot of chugging fizzers that end up in junkyards or going cheap cus people throw new parts in, issues remain, no mechanic can fix them, and then life gets in the way.

    Take it or leave it.
     
  11. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    What is the fuel height/level set at on your carbs?
     
  12. gyro gearloose

    gyro gearloose Active Member

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    Back to where it should be. There is no issue anymore.
    This thread wasnt about fixing the carb chug.
    It was to point out a difference in slides and inserts that no-one, in 30 odd years, seems to have noticed or documented.
    Some tuners may appreciate knowing about this. May appeciate knowing what mikunis original intention and reasoning was.
    There seems to be no documentation outside of yamaha parts diagrams on these carbs.

    I fixed the carb issue. Whether my conclusion is appreciated or not.
    The question of slides remain.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2023
  13. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    So fuel height/level of 10.5mm as per Yamaha spec, correct?

    Which needle jets are fitted? Used OEM ones or new Keyster ones which you mentioned?
     
  14. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    As I said before, blaming us is incorrect. If there is a fault as you described then it is also with the original part. If it is the housing then it could be with the 3LN3 only.
     
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  15. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    @gyro gearloose

    Half the postings/threads on this forum are about the infamous Mikuni BDST carbs
    Many on this forum (including me) have spent countless hours exploring , researching , putting into practice or wateva , trying to fix ,and sometimes even resolving, 'problems' and idiosyncrasies associated with these carbs.
    Its obvious even Mikuni and/or Yamaha found reasons to make design changes (including the jet housing) as shown from the 3LN1 to the 3LN7 differences

    If you have made a new discovery then thats great .... thats what its all about .... thats what forums are for , especially this one
    But the difference here is that alot of us have been here a long time and appreciate each others input and opinions and respect any input whether we agree or not.

    If you expect people to kiss your arse because you think you are right and no one else has a clue, then your days here are limited.
    Rearrange the attitude

    Have a nice day
    Chief
     
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  16. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I doubt there's an issue with the housing, when I rebuilt my carbs using your kits and the new o-ring beneath the slide housing, I had to put significant pressure onto the slide housing to get it down far enough to tighten the hollow screw at the end of the emulsion tube to keep it in place.

    That pressure of the compressed o-ring beneath the slide housing, pulls equally on the jet housing to seal it via the emulsion tube through them both.

    When I last disassembled the carbs, the jet housing was 'stuck' onto the carb body by the seal with your jet housing seals.

    I don't doubt the integrity of the seal either above or below the carb body where the emulsion tube is.

    There's plenty of people that have broken hollow screws/bolts using them to tighten the whole assembly, slide housing and jet housing, into place.
     
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  17. gyro gearloose

    gyro gearloose Active Member

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    The housing face is as cast.
    The machine punching them out may have upwards of 50 dies.
    They wear, they get replaced.
    I believe i mentioned manufacturing tolerances. Very well could be a few thousand blocks are oversized in the most critical area. Minkuni really should have machined that face.

    It seems to emenate from people pulling their carbs apart.
    Unfortunately with the history of grey imports you never know whats been done previously.
    Upset seals, rearrange them, alter surfaces on old rubbers, and then a new seal based on "good"tolerances rather than worst case tolerances, and finally.. the problem persists, and one starts chasing wild geese thinking theyve eliminated all possibilities.

    Why would grinding the blocks, increasing the squish on those critical seal fix it, yet NOT be the problem?

    Idle and main fuel. Idle and emulsion air bleeds, and the choke, all pass through that join.

    Whatever. My bike runs. I said my conclusion would upset someone. It obviously has.
     
  18. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    No-one here is upset, HOWEVER pertinent questions have been posed and on each occasion you've avoided answering.

    It hasn't gone unnoticed.

    After your first post, which noted reason for rebuild, chugging, subsequent to that first rebuild, for you it all went to s#$t;
    Appalling low throttle performance and overheating - another user had installed the jets in the housing in the wrong spots and experienced really poor running as a consequence, very similar symptoms indeed.
    Mentioned that two round jets can be in wrong positions.

    I must admit that IF you had the jets swapped that you didn't melt a piston or seize a motor, it will run, just, BUT it would have been dangerously lean a higher throttle openings.
    You did get boiling coolant...

    Was installing the Keyster [yet to be confirmed that you actually did] coincident with a rebuild where you potentially got the jets in the wrong positions.
    Only you will know that for certain and from your previous conduct I don't anticipate an honest answer.

    Then your symptoms changed.

    Chased the slides & inserts furphy for bit then didn't you...that went precisely nowhere now didn't it.

    Asked if you've visually inspected the actual throat of the OEM needle jets under a loupe [high magnification]
    No you've measured them past visuals.
    That's not a response to the question which was asked, UNLESS you have measured both the size and concentricity of the OEM needle jets RIGHT at orifice exit, which is where the significant wear occurs.

    Note also somewhere in there where you acknowledge that it's fuel level dependent and ameliorated by turning off the fuel tap. So you treated a symptom at the lower throttle opening by lowering the whole fuel level across the whole fuel range, leaning it off, to obtain acceptable running.

    That was also noted to you.

    Have you installed new Keyster needle jets? Asked that one a few times and no answer.

    If you've changed two things, new Keyster needle jets AND ground the housing, you very well know that the result/conclusion is completely invalid BECAUSE you changed two things at once.

    FWIW, I've got an OEM needle jet right here in front of me and the exit to that orifice looks like a tiny person has gone around it with a chipping hammer - it's farked - those needle jets had ~55,000 kms on them, the bike was an absolute bear to ride in traffic with 'random' chugging.
    Once onto the needle taper and then onto the main jet it went VROOM all the way to redline, just fine.

    So again, straight up question, I am assuming that the jets are in the correct positions on the jet holder now, do you have new Keyster needle jets installed?
     
  19. jmw76

    jmw76 Well-Known Member

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    @gyro gearloose its great that you have found a solution to a long standing problem.
    I fully understand that putting to cast faces together and expecting them to seal is not good practise. Usually a reason for using a gasket.
    You have certainly been persistent.
    Lets all move on and solve the next problem.

    Peter.
     
  20. gyro gearloose

    gyro gearloose Active Member

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    There are threads galore about this chug. I have read EVERYTHING. I have tried EVERYTHING. when i fail to mention something, consider it absent mindedness.

    I did NOT sign up for advice on fixing this chug. Or to start yet another chug thread. Repeating the same things i can read on countless other threads.

    I signed up to get an idea of which insert and slide belongs in which carb, something i noticed as i installed new diaphgrams.

    All you have to do is pop the tank, the air filter, and push each slide up a few mm and look.
    So far... noone has bothered with THIS bit of "help". That is for the benefit of ALL. Not just myself.

    Instead, as i accidentally included additional information about "the dreaded chug", this thread was retitled "help" and has subsequently focussed on that topic rather than...

    WHICH SLIDE AND INSERT BELONGS IN EACH CARB?

    Anyway. I was wrong. Initial assumption, grinding the housings solved the issue.
    For three rides. Then back as bad as ever.

    So it is NOT your seals, maelstrom. My apologies.
    The last possibility... proven again, wrong.

    In fact... im thinking it aint the carbs at all.

    or, its not the carbs, merely the setup that makes certain other issues manifest as a carb issue?
    The design of the downdraft carb, requiring an anti-siphon system in the pilot circuit... thats unusual. And so is a 62cc engine with a 28mm carb. only get away with that by running the CV.

    Has anyone done a manifold vac test when theyre having these symptoms?
    I sure didnt. Yet i suspect it may very well be the key...




    ive bought a lemon.
    Heads off.
    Its overbored. Probably chinesium.
    Leaking intake valves despite good compression. Bubbles :)

    Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

    Low manifold vacuum on an oversized carb of unusual design, that throws unusual symptoms?
    Rechecking that fuel level as it clears up, and comparing it to the galleries in that jet block? I got alarm bells going off about how pilot circuits work...

    And how they have to deal with siphoning fuel when pilot orifices are well below fuel level... if it isnt dealt with, these would hydrolock...

    Instead, the symptom feels like its STARVING for fuel... exhaust smells like it too.

    anyway. its a mess inside. Cry.

    Sigh. Chasing geese. It went so nice at first.

    Whatever!
    Skim the head, throw a gasket in and...
    Christ, last time i got a neway seat cutter it cost a motza... gunna need new arbor too.
    Can i even get them this small?!

    These exhausts are freaking gross.
    16792038583655439643942242350782.jpg
    Intakes, meh.
    16792040349884687592911315098837.jpg
    Oil is me though.

    Last thought, more absent mindedness...

    Last time it was riding good, before it became like this... i had done the valve clearances along with other things. And i only had it a week so no real idea of its habits...

    Pretty sure rust aint good on valve seats. Forgot to measure before i popped the head off last night, oops.

    Back in a fortnight i guess.
     

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