FZX250 Zeal - Getting Familiar

Decided to have a fair go at my first bike tonight just to become familiar, before contemplating the inevitable carburettors.

All up, I have spent a couple of months researching motorcycles, bought some decent tools, and after purchasing the FZX250 I spent an additional few weeks of reading, gathering all possible documentation, asking questions, and making sure that I know what I'm getting myself into.

With my first attempt last night I was only confident enough to get to the fuel tank. Tonight I've removed it, checked the air filter, inspected cables and lines, and so far, am confident with the job done.

Here's a scene of the aftermath, and after I put it back to one piece I'll explain a few steps in a little more detail later.


Yeah I can do Yoga, see.

And hopefully I'll Never need that thing on the far left

--
Sent from my BlackBerry Z10

 

Read the owners manual: here or here
http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/categories/fzx250-zeal.32/
https://sites.google.com/site/yamahafzx250zeal/Manuals

Tools:
3/8" Drive Ratchet
1/4" Socket
5/32" Allen bit + 10mm Socket
150mm No2 Phillips screwdriver
Needle nose pliers

Consult the manual(for the most part)

1. Unlock the steering (p3-1)
2. Close the fuel cock in the off position (p3-9)
3. Pop the passenger seat to access the rider's seat bolt (p3-10)
4. Remove the rider's seat with the bolt (p3-10)
   • 1/4" Socket
     • 
5. Disconnect the battery, Negative(black) terminal first (and last to reconnect)
   • 1/4" Socket
     • 
6. Remove both side fairings(air scoops) and each of their two screws (p6-9)
   • 5/32" Allen bit + 10mm Socket
     • 
7. Remove the front pouch and its four screws (p6-9)
   • 5/32" Allen bit + 10mm Socket
     • 
8. Remove the screw from inside the fuel cock's tap and remove the tap/lever (p6-9)
   • 150mm No2 Phillips screwdriver
     • [picture pending]
9. Disconnect the fuel hose feeding into the fuel pump (p6-9)
   • Needle nose pliers
     • 
10. Remove the four bolts hold the fuel tank in place (p6-9)
    • 1/4" Socket
    • Also see above pic for bolts
      • 
11. Inspect the Air Filter (p6-10)
    • 150mm No2 Phillips screwdriver
      • 

Also, check fuel filter, hoses, cables, connections etc.



I could say(and probably true) that this is the bare minimum every rider should know if they intend to keep a motorcycle.


As I've now just found for myself, keeping a motorcycle can be a very valuable experience. Both on and off the street

 

I know I should have asked before buying <-- zealot

Just purchased some oils etc. and wondering if the first two in the list are compatible with the FZX250 Zeal (3YX2):

• Castrol Activ 4T 15w-50 Motorcycle Oil
• Ryco Z436

• Degreaser
• Castrol O-R chain spray x 2
• WD-40
• Servisol Electrical clean and lube

Is the filter and motor oil ok for this model Zeal, or are there much more suitable candidates out there than these?

 

**** and ****'s <-- are automatically censored words.
So, for the sake of simple phonetics, a male organ

 

Replacing the Loud Horn
Three weeks delivery time and I finally received a replacement horn for the FZX250 Zeal.

Tools:
10mm Wrench

Original loud horn :
Nikko - CF-12, 100dB, 12V, 1.5A, 65mm



Replacement loud horn:
Universal - 105dB, 12V, 1.5A, 65mm



Paying particular attention to the black wire with a white stripe, and that its placement remains consistent.

 

When I've finished with a basic document that I'm currently throwing together I'll let you know.

Sourcing parts seems to be a challenge though a few mods here and there may go a treat anyways.
The Zeal is a good bike to learn on But I say that now as I'm yet to hit the carburettors

And I'll probably check the plugs tomorrow, so should be interesting what tell-tales come up there

 

Good question, I don't have all the info but you could start here:
https://sites.google.com/site/yamahafzx250zeal/parts-list/suspension-f

 

Servicing the Spark Plugs

Additional Tools:
3/8" Torque Wrench
3/8" Drive Extension bar 75mm
3/8" Drive Universal Joint
5/8" Spark Plug Socket
Anti-Seize Lubricant 28g (for aluminium cylinder head-equipped engines)

Cleaning:

Nail Brush
Hair Dryer
Oven cleaner
Baby Wipes
Hand pump (found useful for cleaning dirt from plug chambers)


1. Unscrew and loosen the hose clamps to the air cleaner case and disconnect hose


2. Remove air cleaner


Clean with baby wipes, came up alright, missed the pics.




Intake chamber looks and functions ok on all 4


This carburetor joint looks a bit upset, the other 3 are a tad happier


Pilot Screws 1-3 and 4, lackinig consistentcy it seems. Number 2 is stained, and probably has more air.

3. Remove spark plug caps

* Peel back the rubber boot and rotate the assembly off
​

Spark plug leads are numbered, caps seem in good condition.
Would trim the lead wires if I had the tools, also wasn't sure if length allowed such a trim. Next time maybe.



This is where I needed an air compressor to clean out the chambers before removing the plugs, but all I could find was a double action hand pump
Maybe should try a keyboard vacuum or something of the sort...


Spark plugs for cylinders 1-4 in order.
These plugs look to be carbon fouled by a rich fuel-air mixture, and I'm assuming it's the float bowl seals.

4. Clean the spark plugs


Roustabout while the sparks soak in oven cleaner -- in a medium sized yoghurt container for approx. 2 hours or so. Then a good scrub with a nail brush, and a good blow dry for that extra class treatment.


Scrubbed up a bit of alright there
... didn't have the means to check the gap.

4. Installation of spark plugs


Anti-Seize Lubricant, and a little something like this maybe


After cleaning the plugs I took the bike out for a quick run of 5km and noticed an immediate improvement with performance, generally a more smooth operation and response coming from the engine.

I'll definitely change the oil and filter sometime this week

 

Have you visited the Resources area of 2fiftycc.com?
http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/categories/fzx250-zeal.32/

There's a document there called Yamaha FZX250 Zeal General Specifications:
http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/yamaha-fzx250-zeal-specifications.150/

A very convenient repository, and there's a lot of experience moving about the forums so maybe a few pictures and a general specifics about your MO and that should get things into gear just fine

 

Had some fun wrestling with the phone's digital camera, fumbling it around, and somehow lost a of the original pics from a corrupt memory card...
Engine Oil & Filter Replacement

Tools:
8 Litre Oil Drain Dish
3/8" Torque Wrench
17mm Socket
3/8" Drive Universal Joint
Anti-Seize Lubricant 28g (for aluminium cylinder head-equipped engines)

Replacement Products
Castrol Activ 4T 15w-50 Motorcycle Oil
Ryco Z436
Cleaning and disposal:
Flattened cardboard box (to catch spillage under bike)
Juice(Orange) Container 3 Litres
Plastic wrap/Cling film/Food wrap
Baby Wipes they do the job.

1. Sit the drain dish under the bolt and filter

I didn't briefly warm the bike up before proceeding, was thinking the heavies will be settled to be pushed out first with flow pressure.

​

2. Remove the Drain Bolt and drain out the old oil


Drained it completely into the 8L oil drain dish.
The old oil wasn't too bad and no obvious shards and pieces or damaged threads

3. Remove the filter and drain the remaining oil

• Baby wipes to clean old filter and can remove by hand
• Also, clean all areas

4. Install Replacement Filter

• Use clean engine oil to lubricate the replacement filter's rubber seal before installing
• I used anti-seize on the drain bolt just for good measure. Torque 4.3 m-kg.

5. Replenish System with New Oil

Approximately 2.2 Litres(with new filter) are needed for the mighty Zeal

• Remove the plug on top of the crankcase, located on the other side of the bike, and fill with most of the required oil.

I didn't measure the oil accurately as I was pouring it into the crankcase. Would've been easier if measures were imprinted on the oil container etc...


So, I idled the bike for a few minutes to circulate and heat the oil after about 2 litres(I think), then turned off and left to sit. I done this a couple of times all the while topping up with more oil. After turning it off for a further few minutes I got this final reading -- and I'll be sure to keep an eye on it in future. Will probably need to drain it some.

6. Ready for Waste Disposal


A common 3L container is suitable for the waste oil.


Secured the 3L rim with thin plastic film.

... and the filter too.


...and Voila! not a lot to it ... except posting up this stuff to the web can take a fair slog too

 

After warming up, turning off, and letting it sit for a few... the oil level remains consistent but...

about two weeks back the bike had suddenly picked up a deep note to its sound, and whilst servicing the spark plugs I finally found the time to inspect the exhaust and muffler.


So, when I was checking for the assumed hole as soon as I found it with my hand this soot and water mixture spilled out. I inspected the leak, cranked the bike, gave it some wind.


Mysterious looking hole that may have been factory produced way-back-when...


Inquisitive as I am, info from the general web says, apparently, some mufflers/exhausts have these weep holes to prevent build-up and wear from corrosion. And I then I find a bolt coming out of the exhaust pipe.


Managed to clear most of that buildup out with a good rev or ten...

So, here's my take on the matter:

1. Factory 'bashed', both muffler and exhaust to allow weeping etc.
   
2. Carburetors are flooding causing carbon buildup that led to the blockage of the weep hole.

Anyone, feel free to correct me if this isn't the case, but that hole looks mighty purposeful to me either way and I didn't do it I don't have those tools.

And the note the bike gives off is a little... 'off' to me.

 

I'll give it a few days thought, probably being factory and all. I'm likely to leave it as-is -- the build up needed releasing and just have to keep it this way is all.

I can put up with the deeper 'off' note, sounds a little grunt, though added by the annoyance there's obviously a hole there thanks.

 

The long weekend was a good opportunity to get the coolant changed, simply for peace of mind... and getting familiar of course

Coolant Flush & Replacement
I did not expect that removing the coolant bottle from the FZX250 would be such a mammoth task!
It's only because I had to try every other frigging method, except the correct one... so, I never got it out for the good old once-over, however it was flushed to an acceptable degree at least, eventually.
Tools:
Rear Paddock Stand (bike lift)
8 Litre Oil Drain Dish
8mm Socket
3/8" Drive
Needle nose Pliers
Anti-Seize Lubricant 28g (for aluminium cylinder head-equipped engines)

Replacement Products
2 x Nulon Red Pre-Mix Coolant
Cleaning and disposal:
Bottled Water (for flushing and storing discarded coolant)
Disposable Gloves
Cleaning Brushes (for where applicable)
Baby Wipes they do the job well.

1. Locating the drain plug is easy
If you know where to look it's quite obvious, though a little discrete for amateurs like myself.

8mm socket should do it

2. Radiator Cap and Coolant Drain Plug
Remove the starboard side fairing -- Air Scoop Assembly
Remove the radiator cap and remove the plug to release the coolant

Note that coolant is a highly toxic substance -- Hazmat not required, common sense recommended

3. Flush the system and remaining coolant
Distilled water is best, I used my 3nd-stage-RO (reverse osmosis) water from handy bottles -- almost as good.

Comes out clean, eventually....

4. Plug it, Fill it
Anti-Seize Lubricant for the plug

Coolant (ethylene glycol) is toxic, so absorbing such monsantolike awesomeness isn't a smart choice, especially when you have one.

5. (Attempt to) Remove and Flush the Overflow Reservoir
Either way, you'll still have to disconnect the hose from the radiator's overflow

Disconnecting the hose from the reservoir probably isn't a champion idea, the plastic may be fragile so handle with a bit of cheer...

Keeping it clean

Using these guys as I continue along, and whatever else is handy. Keeps things half-decent from PO (previous owner) crud.

Tried to remove the reservoir from the top...

nope.... that didn't achieve a thing. The coolant reservoir cannot be removed from here I found.

Must be accessible the from the starboard side, right?

The the side covers have one hex (size 5mm), and the other should just 'pop' out -- preferably without the grommet.

Removed the Regulator...

Unhitched the Rear Brake Reservoir and finally we are readdy to... to find that all was in vain, once again.

Likely scenario is that I had the wrong side, so off to the port side we go, no worries, I'll put it all back later -- just need to get this bottle out to give it the-once-over.

So, I removed the port side-cover, chain guard, and then found that it may be possible to remove the bottle from there only if I remove the chain first

This is a tame pic, compared to the chaos that followed and before littering the area with screws, bolts, and pieces.

I should have taken a pic of the aftermath, guess the frantic mode I was in was hurried for time. And I was pushing for time as I had to remain rather sensical going about this. So...

To get that reservoir tank out I think it seems best to remove the rear wheel, or at least the chain and go the port side which might work. The other ways (my attempts) are likely to damage the bottle if forced too much.


Wham, Bam, Gravity man... Done

Had the bolts on the reservoir removed already so a bit of washing around and it's over in no time. I just used water only.

6. Get it Together and Bleed the Air
Surprisingly I got all bits and pieces, that I diligently gutted out, back together exactly back how it was... except... always an exception, the plastic cable tie that held the brake reservoir to the frame. No biggie, I replaced with a handy, and sturdy, velcro tie.

Seems to hold up the Rear Brake Reservoir well -- for the time being at least.

Bleed
Ran the engine for a good 20+ minutes at about 2200(if I recall correctly) revs. Not too high or too low.

Eventually it bubbles, spits, and splutters (catching the toxic spill). And a few high revs for a while to measure.

Done!

Not a great shot, but did find a good deal of crud in the tank also...

For another day

 

Tail/Brake Light Replacement
Wasn't sure about the tail light as it had only one brightness whether the brakes are applied or not, but at least it was bright. And so it took awhile to figure out the innards but in the end was done.

Long story short: found out that the globe is a dual filament type, and the new replacement must be correctly orientated when fitted.

Tools:
3/8" Drive Ratchet
10mm Socket
150mm No2 Phillips screwdriver

Replacement Products
SCA Automotive Globe - 12V, 21/5W Bay15D

1. Remove the seat

• 3/8" Drive Ratchet
• 10mm Socket

2. Remove the Top Tail Fender

• 150mm No2 Phillips screwdriver
• Two screws

Then ease it out towards the front of the bike to unhitch and remove.

3. Remove the Side fenders

• 4 screws from both sides

• 4 grommets from both sides, remove the front before the rear.

• Remove one side, then the middle section, then the other side.

3. Remove the Taillight Cover

• 2 screws

Done!

This had actually taken me a few free days because of my figuring-out how it all operates:

• Globes are dual filament. One for Tail and one for braking both inside the globe. Therefore two connections for 21 Watt and 5 Watt
  
• Fitment is supposedly BAY15D type, but later found does not prevent incorrect orientation when fitting.
• Both the hand and foot brake levers have built-in switches to trigger the braking filament(brightest).

Adding to the problem the original globe suddenly stopped working.
So cleaned the cord assembly with contact cleaner and lubricant... still not working...


And without a multimeter I could only go out, buy a bulb, and use that to begin with. Then eventually I found the idea of swapping the yellow and blue leads (21W/5W) which worked! So, then I just had to find the time to check the globe again and found that fitment is not foolproof. Easy to bawls if you don't know sweet FA.

The PO must have had a shorter fuse


Also, my Hazard switch is a bit funky... PO must have been fooling with it.
It's off in the on position, and the off position is goes under the switch block! Impossible!