Project Newbie, FZR250 Project

Reckon I should manually extend the tensioner a bit and see if that does anything??

 

I don't think it's the exup grey, It used rattle before when I started it but only in the fully open/closed positions, and it was a rattle you could "feel" when you put your hand on it, like the vibration through your hand would match the rhythm of the sound reaching your ears so you knew 100% it was the exup, this sound is different and wasn't present before I tore down the motor.

I didn't measure the extension of the CCT. When I removed it unfortunately, but I did hear it extend when the springs were tightened down, maybe it didn't extend enough is what I'm thinking??

 

Yeah that makes sense linkin, I must get my ass outta bed (it's 8.30am here) and do that.

 

I was afraid to rev the bike that high sounding like that!! But I will do it and see how it goes.

 

so i removed the CCT and pushed it forward two clicks and she quietened right down so thank f##k for that!! and also to the eagle eared posters who copped that she was only running on three cylinders you were 100% spot on



cyl 3 isnt firing, will investigate it later when i have the time, prob something small as she was fine before i stripped it so once again thanks for all the input guys its very much appreciated!!

 

Been busy lately so havent had much time on this unfortunately but still managed to get a few orders in!!



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The airbox to carb boots were gone hard as a rock and were impossible to fit, so had to get some brand new replacements.



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i managed to get some free time today and found the cause of the bike running on three cylinders, it turns out the spark plug cap separated from the lead, nice handy fix so now on to the next problem.

i acquired a morgan carb synchroniser and removed the plugs from the intake manifold and fitted the barbs, dampers and vac lines, fired her up and got her synced pretty close but not surprisingly as im a noob when it comes to tuning in general i'm encountering a few issues.

When i start and warm the bike up and get it to idle, as soon as i give it some throttle it revs up ok but the revs then drop really slow and seem to hang around 3.5k RPM and stay there anyone have any ideas?? ive attached a video below for anyone interested to peruse.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-6LVdXzRTTGSWdVdHBmb3VGYjg

my carb settings are standard so correct jets in correct places, needles on middle clip and mixtures set three turns out, airbox and air filter is fitted, looking forward to your opinions on what to do next.

 

i have, the idle speed doesnt change initially but will after say 20 or 30 seconds, i put it down to the carby cleaner evaporating off and getting sucked into the airbox??

 

i bit the bullet and pulled out the boots, there are plenty of cracks on the outer face and top lip, but the inside part seems fine on them all with no cracking until you reach the very top bit where the diameter increases to accept the carb.





when i push a carb into them the cracks expand a bit, do you think this is the cause?? even though the body of the carb continues past these cracks and into seemingly solid rubber below??





would liquid gasket be a good way of sealing them up??

 

Yeah they were connected to the sync guage. Ok so some good advice here, I'm gonna go see if I can find some polyurethane sealant and fill up the cracks.

One more thing, I noticed there is a seal on the bottom where it meets the engine, on one of the manifolds it looks almost flush, should I make up a new gasket with some gasket paper??

 

Update time.

armed with the most invaluable information from all the guys who posted above it was time to go hunting some air leaks.

The only polyurethane that i could track down locally was stuff called "tigerseal" so i grabbed a tube and went at it, for the first run i opened out all the cracks as much as i could and filled them with the tigerseal, then left them to dry.





then i gave them two more coats until i was happy that every millimeter was covered, the results werent pretty but it would hopefully be effective.



i also cleaned up the mating surface underneath, and made some gaskets to be sure nothing could get in.







i also re-set the floats as the fuel levels were a little bit low, and after a few hours faffing around on the bench i found it was much easier to do this with the carbs actually fitted to the bike, as it took the guesswork out of it and meant you could hook up the fuel pump etc to get a true level.






this process is aided by an auxillery fuel tank which i took off an old power washer and attached to the subframe out of the way.



so i fired her up and its so much smoother, sweet as a nut!! i was stoked, see small video below.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-6LVdXzRTTGOW15cy1SWHNSeDQ

as my fuel tap was leaking rather badly i received another package from mr litetek himself



as you can see in this picture of the offending article, there was a tear in the seal on the left hand side which resuted in the fuel pissing out from the tap.



so finally then i fitted the chain




shes looking alright!!

 

One thing that’s really letting the bike down at the moment is the bodywork department, I’ve been reading through loads of threads here especially @my67xr’s build and there seems to be plenty of expertise on this matter, so in keeping with the whole DIY ethos of the build I would like to try do as much as possible myself.


So the main problem area is the tail fairings


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As you can see there are some pretty nasty cracks as well as the fact its missing the lugs that attach it to the tank and subframe. These need to be done asap as there is no other way to secure them to the bike and I obviously don’t want them falling off.
I was thinking of just getting some abs rods and turning them down to the required diameter, then welding them in place with a soldering iron, do ye guys reckon that would work or am I being too naïve??

There are also plenty of existing signs that repairs have been attempted on this bike, there’s bits of plastic welding done here and there and the paint has runs in it in places from a home spray job, its adequate for the moment but its something I wish to address in the future, so im just setting things in motion in my head and trying to get ideas etc.

because I want to keep the factory colour scheme, and all of the bodywork clearly will need to be repainted I was wondering really how to go about it with all the decals etc?? I can get new decals made in a signwriters that’s no problem, but how do I mark the exact spot to have them reapplied??

Do I remove the decals first then sand, fill and paint the entire panel and then reapply the decals or do I prep and spray around them first then remove them so i have the exact outline for the new ones to go back on?? I know it’s a long way away before im in a position to paint but I do like to have things relatively sorted in my head before I go at them and this has me stumped, and thanks as always for the advice, you guys rock!!