@Frankster planted the seed that I should build up a trackbike to help promote my business plus it gives me an excuse to get back out on the track, so yesterday I picked up a very sorry looking MC22 for $180.00 She is very low on compression so I will fit a spare engine that I have here, then build her up like my last one. Just made my first purchase to @maelstrom for a seal kit and scored some cheap coerce rear sets on ebay. Does anyone have a spare seat ? Mine is pretty chewed up
Hey. Looks like a good start to me. $180 beats the $500 I paid for the basis of my track machine. Still not fully sorted yet though. Peter.
Hey Chris. I was looking to replace my seat with a thin form to lose some weight. I've seen lots of track bikes with them.
The issue is that the race glass supplied by teamtiger or BSpoke use the stock seat and mountings, I am yet to find cost effective raceglass for a MC22 that can have a seat like that.
Nice score. If anyone knows someone who does fibreglass mould making, I'd be happy to let the track ducktail I have get copied. Just have to fill in a few sections first.
@A.C. they are awesome, alas I don't know anyone who does fibreglassing Some progress has been made on the old girl, alas the engine that came with it has no compression, and the spare motor I have been hording for a while has very low compression on 3 pots and none on one. , but that is okay. I have a MC19 engine which I may use instead. Or will keep an eye for a crashed MC22 that has a good engine. It appears this bike lived outside for a few years, even after having it a week, I am still seeing ants come out of every orifice. I have bought a few bits and bobs for it including head stem bearings , control cables, sprockets, chain etc , I will pick up some fork seals later this week so I can get it back to a roller. The H bar was bent and badly corroded, I gave it a quick blast, straightened it as best I could and painted it. Triple tree ready for new bearings as well.
gave the forks a once over in the Wet Blaster as I was doing some parts for an old Honda Scrambler and figured might as well do it all at once, now just waiting for seals to arrive then they can be rebuilt.
Fibreglassing is not that hard, even I can do it. I've down molds and parts before, pva spray for separation, extra pieces for edges. Just need a few things like polish wax, modelling clay or plasticine, gel coat, pva spray, fine glass and regular glass matting, and you standard resin and catalyst. Paint brush, plastic container and a fibreglassing roller are also needed; don't wash your brushes, buy cheap ones and throw them out. I made a roller out of threaded rod and wire, too.
Forks seals done with 10w oil, while they were apart, I clear coated the fork legs , I would like some new Racetech springs but these may have to wait. Next stop is to fit my new Bridgestone s10R tyres and get her back to a roller.
Decided it was strange that 2 engines had bugger all compression so I pulled my comp gaiges apart and reassembled them, did a comp test and it jumped from 0 to 175. 75 . 70. 150. Pulled the leak down tester out and it showed it was losing pressure out the exhaust valves. Whipped the head off and was pleased to see that the cylinders and barrels weren't too bad Popped the head into the wet blaster and spent ages cleaning up the valves then lapped them using some paste , need to find out what @Murdo used to confirm a good seal. Almost ready to reassemble , but I have hit a snag, I don't have the tool to fit my new valve stem seals , any ideas ?
Chris, Use valve blue to test seal is solid. It's a liquid that when squashed should confirm a good seal. Should be something online to show you how. Valve stem tool is all I know. I'm guessing @Murdo will have a workaround.
You have all the valves back in yeah? When I did stem seals on the fizzer head, I had the valves out. Pulled off the old ones, cleaned up where they sit, push new ones on by hand. Didn't have a problem at all.
To confirm the seats I used bearing blue (sometimes called engineers blue) and did one rotation with it on the face of the valves. This will show and high or low spots where the valves are not touching, and show you how wide the seats are and if they need grinding to restore to correct width. This is the tool I made to fit the seals. Hope this helps.
Something like this Chris. It holds the seal while you knock it in. https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0510 Also, this vid shows lapping and using engineers blue to achieve a good seal.