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Project My '90 FZR250 3LN3

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by my67xr, Jun 19, 2016.

  1. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Where are you reading about this? Would like to learn a bit more about it
     
  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yamaha's , 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G, 1976 IT400C 510
    There are so many cop conversion's out there, i've read a heap of thread's with conversion's on lot's of different bike's

    Here's a couple of link's to look at
    http://www.v4spark.com/V4-COP.htm

    http://www.fzronline.com/forum/view...sid=6ebef568820023c9c63c9efbef9f6a4e&start=15

    http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34208

    The COP coil's draw about 6A-7A each and the factory wiring to power the coil's on the FZR look's like 10A 16AWG wire at the most
    So for COP 's it should be wired up using 12AWG wire to supply 2x coil's wired in series and will not overheat the wire


    This is a basic diagram to power the coil's through a relay (Bosch 40A or similar)

    ign_coil_relay_upgrade_diagram.jpg
     
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  3. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yamaha's , 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G, 1976 IT400C 510
    Made up some new h/d wiring for the relay mod and fitted it today.
    It seem's the FZR TCI doesn't like to have the power to the coil's bypassed, it power's up ok, but when the ignition is turned off it causes the TCI to tick/buzz until i unplug the relay.
    So i will use the original wiring for now

    I will strip back the insulation on the main harness and check for the voltage drop when i get a chance later down the track
     
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  4. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yamaha's , 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G, 1976 IT400C 510
    I had a look at a slight oil drip coming from the engine on the left side near the water pump.
    I found it's coming out the drain hole on the back section of the water pump housing.
    Looked into getting a new seal kit for the water pump with the mechanical and water seal's, i found some from Ebay UK for about $25 with express delivery.
    Yamaha part number 11AH-12438-10
    The same seal's are used in over 100 Yamaha's.

    Then i have realised it's only the oil seal that has gone behind the bearing.
    So after looking at the part's manual i found that the part Yamaha part number is 93101-10090 (add a -00 to the end of the number if searching in the US)
    Searching that number on google there was a picture of the oil seal in a Yamaha packet, on the face of the seal you can see the dimension's are 10 x 21 x 5.
    So now i'm off to buy a new seal 10mm i/d, 21mm o/d and 5mm thick, should cost around $5 and i'll have it today

    I'll order some new seal's for the coolant pipe's from Litetek as well, as the pipe need's to come off to do the job, and i'll do the other pipe seal's at the same time



    bce1ee7c9006ddb7ea0cb6d014517231.jpg
    $_57.JPG
     
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  5. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Played with the carby's again today
    Had to play with the mixture screw's again to get rid of that miss still, and now have it better than it's ever been.
    I think when i installed the K&N filter, the velocity through the carby's has dropped, so it's sucking less fuel and the hesitation is from being too lean.
    I have the mixture screw's at 4 turn's out now and it's pretty good,
    I don't know whether to try the float's at 14mm, or i try going up 1 or 2 jet sizes in the pilot (drill out the original pilot jet's) to correct the mixture's, then i can run the mixture screw's back to about 2.5 turn's out

    Current float height is still 15mm, and the fuel level look's close on 10.5mm

    20170817_123037.jpg
     
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  6. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    I dislike the idea of drilling jets, but if you do, file the numbers off so you don't get confused later.
     
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  7. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Doing great work!
    If you use OEM sizes for those pilots it would be better for helping other owners to tune theirs and also easier in case you find you go too large and want to go back one size. Knowing what difference one size pilot jet makes to mixture screw turns would be really useful. The relay mod on coil power problem is an odd thing. Have to check my diagram too now.
     
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  8. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah i can work out what drill size's are close to the stock jetting, i have a chart i can refer to somewhere.
    Then once i can get the carby close to tuned perfect i can buy some new jet's in the correct size.

    On Keihin PWK Flatslide's, Polini copy's (Italian cnc machined) and Oko Flatslide carby's (PWK copy, Taiwan) i do a lot of tuning on with different race pit bike's,
    1 jet size is half a turn on the mixture screw, so it's pretty easy to work out what size jet is needed
    And having a decent range of jet's make's thing a lot easier too
    Pity the jet's don't fit the Mikuni BDST's



    20170826_124415.jpg
     
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  9. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Been doing a bit more fine tuning today
    Noticed a bit of fluctuation with the exhaust temp's, no 2 seemed to be level for a while then would drop all of a sudden.
    I pulled the mixture screw's out and checked out if there was anything causing problem's.
    I used my endoscope to suss them all out, and found this in number 2.
    So i rigged up my mini ear vacuum and used a tube from a cotton bud to vacuum it out
    The light from the endoscope is actually bright enough to be able to see right down where the port enter's the main bore of the carby.


    After cleaning out that dirt or whatever it was, i gave the carby's a tune
    I have the mixture's all set with the carb sync tool, all are sitting at 18 inch's Hg @ 8 metre's above sea level.
    Exhaust temp's are all pretty close too.


    But now i've had to stop tuning it, we just had a knock on the door, there were 2 women standing there with some dog toy's, bottle's of wine and some chocolate's?
    Apparently they are filming an episode of My Kitchen Rule's next door today, it explain's why they have put up a massive tent in their back yard!
    They want us to keep the dog's inside tonight while they are filming so they don't bark too much.
    I admit that yesterday they were pretty bad with the worker's putting up the tent.
    The kid's have just come inside and told us they were filming the contestant's walking down our street to the neighbour's place.
    So now we need to keep quiet for the rest of the night.
    Lucky i didn't answer the door when the called in, it would have taken a bit more than chocolate's and some wine to get me to be quiet !!


    2017-08-26-14-15-32.jpg
     
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    Last edited: Aug 26, 2017
  10. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    That pic is the base of the mixture screw seat?
     
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  11. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah it is.
    Look's like the o'ring is a bit off centre too
     
  12. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Awesome as usual. Just goes to show how important cleanliness is even when you think you have got it all.
     
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  13. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yamaha's , 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G, 1976 IT400C 510
    I have been annoying my neighbour's again today tuning the FZR.
    I have raised the float level to 13.7mm now, started the bike ran it for a while and tuned it to suit.
    The mixture screw's give the engine the best response when set at 2 turn's out, and set by ear.
    So when i last tuned it and had them at 4 turn's out that must have been compensating for the float level's being too low.

    Anyway since i've had the bike i have never been able to grab wot from idle and have it rev cleanly, it is now though
    It's alway's had a hesitation around 4000 rpm and more recently around 3000 rpm, but that has now gone

    I'm just about to take it out for a test ride now, so i will see how close it is to being right
     
  14. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Well it is a lot better down low now, the intake sound has changed a bit, i still think there's a bit more in it
    I'll have to get the temp gun and carb sync tool's out again and see what i can do.
     
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  15. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I've raised the float level's again this morning to 12.8mm and it's improved a bit more, mixture's are currently at 1 and 7/8 turn's out
    Tank's coming off once again to see how they go at 12mm this time
     
  16. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Did a bit more tuning with the float's at 12.8mm, took it out for a test ride and found an issue.
    The bike flood's and stall's when pulling up quick at light's etc.
    So float's are now back to 13.7mm and mixture screw's back out to 2.25 turn's for the moment.

    Found that the new/used intake manifold's are leaking slightly with a small hairline crack in 2 of them.
    I was on ebay the other night and found a set of 4x brand new 3LN3 intake manifold's for $50 inc delivery so i've ordered a set to try out.

    Also ordered some new seal's for the alloy coolant pipe, and some new seal's for my tank and fuel tap off Litetek
    And bought a heap of M3 x 8mm 316 button head screw's for the fuel tap too
     
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  17. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Just a note about the inlet manifold rubbers. The OEM parts are a blend of NBR and PVC. The PVC improves the resistance to weathering by a significant margin. I know this because one of the companies here that does work for me also makes these parts for Honda. I think many of the Chinese jobbies are just NBR, I am not sure about this but I would expect the price to be quite a bit higher otherwise. It is a bargain price anyway so even if you have to buy new ones every 12 months it is not so bad.

    and thanks for the order :)
     
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  18. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    i have bought an inlet manifold for an XV250 from china before, it's been used for 4 month's + so far and is still good, that was $8 inc delivery.
    You can see it pulsate when the engine is running.
    Also used a lot of the PWK adaptor manifold's and they seem to last quite a while too
     
  19. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Damn right about that. We all benefit from being able to get parts for our bikes from China. No one else makes them.
     
  20. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Would be good to compare the china manifold's to the Kiwami Japanese one's which for a set are $190 dearer plus post, and even the genuine Yamaha one's that are another $60 more again
    I have a set of 2KR inlet manifold's (genuine) that are almost 2 year's old and have a lot of hairline crack's
     

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