Guessing top gasket is genuine ? The bottom one look's like the water gallery hole's are bigger and higher between 1&2, 3&4
I didn't measure them with a micrometer, maybe just the camera angle, but they were the same to my eye.
Got a couple of free days over the weekend and put a bit of it together. Made a front stand out of an old bed frame angle and piece of tube up the head stem and screwed to the table. Does anybody know what these wires go to on a 2KR. Red and brown, both have 12 volts and a two pin plug. Got the rest figured but not these. Manual doesn't show them. Fork legs have been sent to Brisbane to be rechromed. Next is to rebuild the carbs and get it running when new bits arrive.
On my 2KR loom, in that area there is only a single brown wire and a single red wire, both with female bullet connectors. Not sure where they run to though. That plastic terminal block for the red and brown wire doesn't look like a Yamaha block, maybe its been changed at some stage, i can see some heatshrink over a join on the brown wire too?
Hope u have sponsorship for this project At least it will look good beating those MC19s out at the strip
Couldn't be a fan switch as its under the seat next to the battery. I have cut out the dodgy fan switch and repaired the wiring back to the sender on thermo housing (as instructed). The heatshrink was to repair where the wire was broken off. Any idea where the red and brown go to?
Nah sorry, i only have the engine, carby's, harness, coil's, exhaust and fuel pump, nothing else It's not the rear brake light switch wiring ? I have a yellow wire with a male bullet fitting coming from the same area in the 2KR loom, and it's the same length as the brown wire. I reckon those wire's with the white socket is off a later bike that they took the brake light switch from. The original yellow wire might have been broken and was replaced with a red wire ? FZR250 Yamaha 2KR brake light switch
Thanks my67, but all the wires to tail light, brake switch, exup servo, blinkers, solinoid, engine, ignition box, etc are connected and working. I thought maybe a low water level sender but there is none in the water tank. These seem to be for something else that I cannot find in any of the manuals.
Having just done my 3LN, a similar plug I found had the neutral light and oil level sensor go into a plug like that. Not sure if it helps, took me a while to figure that one out.
My 2KR loom from a January 87 FZR250 Maybe they changed to loom's with the 1987 2RF, and 1988 3HX1, 3HX2 and 3HX3's FZR's ?
What weight of oil do people recommend to put into the forks (remembering that it will have a heavy rider), and more or less than the standard amount?
10w is recommended but the front nosedives easily so we put 15 in the Virgin and it made a noticeable difference ... standard amount 390
Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) bikes have much softer damping than Australian market bikes. Even thicker oil won't give you great results. There are too many compression holes in the damper rods and the rebound holes are way too large. Best to fit an Emulator valve and weld up and redrill the rebound holes. Fortunately the 2KR has 35mm forks and so you can use valves from Mike's XS. https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-damper-valve-pr-front-forks-77-84-oem-1t3-23170-00-00.html
The mounting plate for the front guard had been broken and welded on all corners before, and was broken again. Instead of re-welding it again, I got some aluminium a bit thicker and made a new one. I rolled it around a piece of 100mm pipe to get the shape and two slight folds at the ends to match the original. Cut out with the plasma cutter and sanded smooth. Drilled to suit and bolted to the guard with stainless cap screws. Ready to fit.