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Project Joker's Angry Fizzer 400

Discussion in 'Other Projects - Other Bikes (non 250's)' started by Joker, Nov 4, 2016.

  1. MashtX

    MashtX Well-Known Member

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    Fizzers... Painful at the best of times to tune up haha.
    Best of luck - I still haven't figured mine out sufficiently to actually give useful advice other than change one thing at a time and incrementally see how it reacts.

    That being said it's the most rediculously temperamental setup around

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
     
  2. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I'll take it for another spin and see what it does. I'll try lowering the idle before pulling the carbies off again... that's a royal pain. See if it holds and the richness keeps it going. I just want to get the RW done so I can have it on the road legally, all the fine tuning can come in due course, at the moment it's a bit risky riding it around unregistered - cops passed me yesterday so I escaped by the skin of my teeth heh
     
  3. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    So I took it for a run, it just feels like it's not clean through the rev range and it ran pretty average. Rideable but I'm not satisfied. So I attempted to "tune" the pilots while it was warm, you can wind them in until the engine starts to cut out but winding them out I can never seem to find the spot that the rpm "changes". It's just like it winds endlessly with no difference until the pilot comes out. Comparing to the 250, the 250 is definitely "cleaner" even though it struggles on the top end. With the OEM exhaust the sound is annoying, it sounds like it comes from the front of the engine and is a bit hollow... the aftermarket exhaust is 10 times better.

    I think I have to reset the pilots to stock and start again, the other thing I noticed is that turning the idle knob seems really really hard. Don't know why, you can turn it but it's an effort. The 250 is really easy to turn in both directions.
     
  4. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Try running some sewing machine oil down the idle adjuster cable.
    I found with tuning my 250, it run's the best when the mixture screw's just start to lower the idle speed (2 turn's out)
     
  5. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I put it back to stock pilots 2.5 turns out and she's much better. @MashtX gave some good advice and suggested it was probably tuned for the aftermarket exhaust and it would work better around stock with the OEM one... that was a good call.

    Had a good 15 minutes on it and I reckon it will get over the line now, I just need to fix the leaky sump plug which I haven't done because I couldn't be bothered draining the oil after messing with carbies for the past couple of hours!
     
  6. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Passed RW today FINALLY. That was "fun".
     
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  7. MashtX

    MashtX Well-Known Member

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    Good work mate! I know that 'fun' process all too well

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  8. Rob1976

    Rob1976 Active Member

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    Congratulations
     
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  9. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    What are the main things they look at there in Mexico for a new registration?
     
  10. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    The same sort of stuff Ese, fluid leaks, brake peformance, disc thickness, brake lights/indicators, general rideability, tyres/tread, headlights, fairings are secured properly etc. They are making it harder for aftermarket mufflers now that need photos of baffles inside them and also need to be independently noise tested to meet the 96 dB ADR. If I hadn't borrowed @MashtX 's OEM exhaust I believe I would have run into that issue as well, mine runs with a Macrae exhaust (wherever that came from, might replace it in due course).
     
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  11. tarmacsurfer

    tarmacsurfer Well-Known Member

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    Good work. They're still very easy going on the UK when it comes to bike noise. As long as it has an exhaust then the majority of testers don't care how it sounds!
     
  12. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I also used the label maker at work to make a "noise" sticker for the frame... a direct copy of Alex's one on his 400 that is a bit more *cough* genuine.

    25182316_10159727114970716_6795070040862396537_o.jpg

    I do need a better after market exhaust though, Alex has a black widow and it sounds really nice. Suppose once I move on the 250's I'll spend a bit more money on the 400.

    I need to look at the throttle cables though, the throttle is really "heavy". It pulls back and forward OK but it requires more force to move it than my other bikes.
     
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  13. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Took her into work today, much fun had.

    25394696_10159733596815716_3771812491496668054_o.jpg
     
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  14. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Reg rec fried itself. One step forward, two steps back. Going to put one of my spare 250 ones on it although the wiring is slightly different it should do the same thing.
     
  15. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Check the stator isn't shorted out
     
  16. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Yeh good call I'll check it again when I pull the rear fairings off.
     
  17. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    So did some more testing this arvo after the battery was charged up again. I'm now starting to think it's a stator and not necessarily a reg/rec problem.

    Stator isn't going to ground on any phases, however, at idle it gives me 5VAC between phases (you'd expect around 15VAC) and when you rev it, it drops down to 1.5VAC. That was a bit puzzling, you'd think if it was spinning faster the magnetic field would be stronger not weaker.

    Either way it looks like I'm on the hunt for a stator or a rewind (not looking forward to the $).
     
  18. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Check the magnetism of the rotor first, they can lose their magnetism through age or if they are struck harshly.
     
  19. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    How do you do that...?
     
  20. MashtX

    MashtX Well-Known Member

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    Hey Stu I potentially have a spare stator that might be worth a try.

    That being said I'd love to know how to check the magnetism too!

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