Yeah I took the whole nipple out to see if fluid would come out and still nothing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds like a caliper rebuild is needed ... or is the one from the other bike usable? By the look of the pads then inside probably doesnt look much better
Personally I wouldnt be riding the bike until there were new pads on it... safety is paramount and your alternative set of pads are far from what would be considered "legal" in a roadworthy sense. We all know the desire to get it running and ride but having reliable brakes has to be the number 1 priority... especially when you can get them on eBay from about $25... And I agree with @GreyImport that it looks like a caliper rebuild is needed... if they are clagged up enough that you cant get fluid out when the bleed nipple is right out.. they need to pulled apart and as a bare minimum.. cleaned right out.. which is when you find leaky seals, torn dust boots etc. Really should do it properly.. again.. you cant compromise on safety.
I can’t ride the bike anyway, I just wanted to get everything put back on it instead of having bike parts laying around everywhere lol. I’ve got to buy oil and a filter still so that’s when I’ll be getting the brake pads. I honestly don’t think it needs a caliper rebuild though because I actually took off the caliper from my accident bike and put it on the new bike and the rear brakes worked fine before my accident, I’ll try and use the caliper from the new bike instead and see if that makes a difference though anyway Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Despite the front brake disc being extremely rusty, the front brakes are amazing haha well for me anyway coz compared to my accident bike, like I’d say half the reason I could stop fast enough in my accident was because my front brakes were so terrible I could only use my rear brakes, I had the bike going in to get the brakes serviced in the week of my accident too lol. I didn’t work on the bike today I just couldn’t be bothered, but I’ll most likely be doing brake stuff on it today, hopefully can get it all sorted Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A common problem with front brakes is leaking fork seals getting oil on the discs and pads. Clean with brake clearer are scuff the pads on bare concrete. Also, make sure the caliper is floating freely and both pistons are moving easily.
Once oil gets on brake pads, they are junk. No amount of cleaning or soaking will get the oil out of them completely. Best not to risk your life over a set of pads, I'd be replacing them.
Am I doing something wrong here? I’m trying to put the caliper back on the disc but the tightest the pads will go won’t allows the two sides of the caliper to bolt together? obviously the pads can’t go tighter than what they are over the disc but you can see that the caliper can’t even be bolted back up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You have to compress the pistons when fitting new pads .... the other thing to do is clean the glaze off the disc with a wet steely soap pad ... and look on the pad packaging and it should tell you how to bed in the new pads
Not sure why you separated the 2 half’s of the rear caliper. You need to remove the caliper from the mounting bracket and then reassemble the caliper halves. Push the piston all the way in. Then you slip the pads in, slide it over the disc and bolt it back to the mounting bracket. The Across rear caliper is an opposed piston systemt ( one each side) and not a single piston sliding caliper brake setup. I have a feeling you will need to replace seals etc now that you have split the caliper. If you look at the pictures of my bike below you need to remove the 2 lower bolts and the single bolt on the torque arm that mounts to the swing arm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I suggest that you remove the spring clips, then the pins and the pads. make sure the pistons are fully retracted into the housings and then bolt the 2 halves back together making sure you dont kill the seal. Then you can bolt the caliper back up to the mounts, tighten the 2 caliper half bolts and then slip in pads, pins spring clips and the cover. screen shots from the manual below... if you become a premium member the manual is there to download.. makes life much easier..
This pic show's the piston's aren't pushed right back in, look's like they can go in another 5mm each side Did you remove both the piston's and clean them up while it was apart ? Dirty piston's Clean piston
I figured out the problem. The reason I couldn’t get it over the disc was because on this caliper the round thing is sticking out and on the other one, it sits flush (one sticking out is the top one) I’m not sure if those are supposed to come out or if that one poking out is meant to be pushed in? I’m confused by all this lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mate u need to pull up and not do things that u dont understand .... meaning ask first here or get the manual and read it ... over and over You also need to read the explanations we have given you above ..... 3 people have told you the piston needs to be pressed in Its fine doing things yourself but its not fine pulling things to pieces then wondering '' what have I done here" .... especially when its vital things such as brakes ... they have to be done right
Well that’s why I didn’t do anymore coz I was waiting for a reply, and that’s why I asked, I didn’t even know what pistons were that’s why I got confused? I thought the pistons were those thin rods that the brake pads attach to. Only reason it was pulled to pieces was coz I changed the pads and also there was no fluid getting to the brakes so I had to pull it apart and check it all and replace it with the other half off a different caliper. I didn’t know you could push the pistons in, I didn’t want to break anything so I stopped working on it lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So you didn't pull the piston's out and clean them ? Pushing them back in while dirty can damage the seal's in the caliper and also make the piston sticky With you just swapping half of the caliper over it still may have issue's on the original half that was left untouched If the original piston's were sticky, now you have fitted another half off another caliper the rear braking will now only work through one half of the caliper, braking could be relying on 1 disc pad to do the braking doing all the work. The original half to the caliper/bike may still have a sticky piston, so it may not come out properly when you apply the brake's Also if the sticky side become's free then it may come on but might not retract when you let the brake's off, this will cause the disc pad and disc to overheat possibly standing you somewhere with a rear wheel that wont turn, and making it a more expensive repair. I think as a minimum, i would replace the old sticky caliper for the complete one off you accident bike if it worked ok before. But now it has been split into 2 halve's it may need a new seal that goes in between the 2 halve's. Or buy a caliper rebuild kit, have a good read through the service manual and then strip down clean thoroughly and rebuild the caliper yourself If you have any problem's with it ask us, or take it to a motorcycle mechanic and have them rebuild it for you.
No I discovered the piston wasn’t retracted and didn’t want to touch it after that so I stopped working on it completely because I didn’t wanna screw something up just in case I wasn’t meant to move those pistons. Tomorrow arvo I’ll swap the entire caliper with the one off my accident bike, it was working fine before the accident so that’s probably just my best bet to swap them completely Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk