Got the engine in and started bike up. All sounds good. Have a coolant leak from one of the pipes onto the head to sort out though. Main issue now is that I cannot get the clutch to disengange. The cable is on but pulling the lever in is very light and doesn't fell like its doing anything. put it into first with the lever in and it stalled, so its definitely not disengaging. Need some advice on this as the new plates and springs went in the way they should have
Stand was up. Let me rephrase. All I can feel from the clutch lever is the spring tension of the spring on the cable. With the engine running, I put it into first while holding the lever in and it stalled.
I had the engine out when I replaced the clutch, cable was not attached. Made sure that the rod and ball bearing were in there and that I didn't lose them I think maybe where the clutch cable is attached to the engine was not in the right position while I was changing the plates.
Fixed it... looks like a difference between models again, as the original one of these from my engine broke and I grabbed a spare from the fizzer factory, didn't notice the difference in length. Left is 3LN6/7, right is whatever I grabbed from the spares box
Hey Linkin, Great job mate, I remember a few years back when you joined up here, you had a Kawasaki Ninja 250R that kept getting knocked over out the front of your unit in Sydney and were not all that confident at the mechanical side of things. Fast forward a few years with some experience gained from owning and fixing your FZR, advice from other members and some structured mechanical training, you are now stripping down and rebuilding FZR250 engines. Im super stoked for you, well done mate !!! And because of all this, you get the Play of the Day award !! Kiff
Thanks. I know enough to be dangerous Rode the bike early this morning to bed everything in. You can really hear the difference when the compression is high. The only way to explain is that the engine sounds tight. Definitely a sharper exhaust note. Anyway the speedo cable broke, due to mechanic putting the speedo drive in a bad spod with the cable facing down, putting stress on the cable. Just need a correct 3LN3+ screen, fix up the fuel tank, and give the bike a detail
Sorry to be dredging through posts, may I ask how the bike went using chinese pistons etc? Currently rebuilding my motor and getting all genuine parts looks like its going to cost me an arm and a leg. Thinking about going chinese but I'm worried about the quality, longevity and precision of size. Any feedback is appreciated, cheers.
Chinese rings are ok, I bought from AHL (aliexpress) and they look good. Almost about to put my motor together. I believe others have had some success as well.
Have used the rings with good results. Cannot say how long they will last, but probably longer than me.
Came across this thread whilst researching people's experiences with the conrod and crank bearings from aliexpress. I've got a partially disassembled 3LN1 engine which is going to get an overbore to 52mm, because OEM FZR piston rings are just too damned expensive and results vary with the chinese ones L.A. Sleeve - fl-52 from this page - https://www.lasleeve.com/tech/all-purpose-sleeves#panel2v This piston from Airsal which is for the YZF-r125 among other bikes - pin diameter 14mm compression height 18mm, this is a higher compression, aftermarket piston which should at least keep some of the original combustion chamber shape http://www.racingplanetusa.com/pist...sion-52mm-yamaha-p-167531-1.html#.WtwQsBdLfUI I've got other things in mind, but stock yzf-r125 piston coming to me first to check some things before splashing for the rest I'll start a thread when actual work commences