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Project The Bedroom Bike Build

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Bryn duFresne-Mann, May 27, 2018.

  1. Bryn duFresne-Mann

    Bryn duFresne-Mann Active Member Premium Member

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    Interesting, none of my c-models so far have had any compression damping, and have always had pinch bolts on both fork bottoms. all of my a models follow this convention also with the differences being the pre-load caps are different between the two. so where about's does this single-sided compression adjustable fork fit into the game? I'm now making the assumption that B and D model forks (3-way adjustable) must be different



    Further research made! I bow to your superior wisdom! will have to suss out what the go is with the variation in my spare forks!
     
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  2. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to put a DAMPENER on your forks :lolsign:. The A model does have pinch bolts on both sides. 20180601_133150.jpg The bike on the left has a frame # starting with a 3 & not a zero 20180103_132510.jpg thats your first indicator to look for on a SP model (B&D) although motors & frames would of been changed over the years anyway, the SP motors never had any special markings to differentiate between standard motors:idk:. The bike on the left also has slightly different forks where the adjusters should be. 20180601_133348.jpg 20180601_133405.jpg The other A model without them bits. 20180601_133438.jpg 20180601_133459.jpg
     
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  3. Bryn duFresne-Mann

    Bryn duFresne-Mann Active Member Premium Member

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    First batch of parts sent up from my old stomping grounds :D Time to pull the fluwheel and starter gear off of that a model crank!
    20180604_181342_zpsfbcwlnmj.jpg

    Next wad of money I'll have to throw out is getting the spare cases cleaned up
    20180604_181354_zpseed8x5gl.jpg
     
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  4. Bryn duFresne-Mann

    Bryn duFresne-Mann Active Member Premium Member

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    Hand cleaning is always a good start with any parts! About an hour worth of scrubbing with a bottle of Jif and a green scrubbing pad. Should save the Vapour blaster some time and me some money!

    20180605_174516_zpsx9o7qte1.jpg
     
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  5. Bryn duFresne-Mann

    Bryn duFresne-Mann Active Member Premium Member

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    Slowly slowly getting some things done around work and study.... Removed the starter drive mount and pared the alloy back so it can be sealed with a plate when I do a magneto delete.
    20180908_152706_zps1dzvtszp.jpg

    I've also cut down the lower section of the fuel tank to give a nice flat visual line from frame to tail.
    20180908_152519_zpsvpdchwxa.jpg

    Along with this, the upper mounts for the rear subframe have been removed to give a cleaner frame line, and set it all up for some nice triangulation.
    20180908_152648_zpst6ewajbf.jpg

    Finally I ave begun some preliminary work on making my fairing mold. I have a rather badly damaged fairing which I wouldn't bother trying to fix, so I narrowed her nose by about 2 inches, giving a more streamlined cross-section; this will be accentuated by the removal and rounding of the stock "hand pockets" in the fairing, the idea being to go for a little more classic a flowing line, but we shall have to see what becomes of the bodywork after I get a hold of some clay and have a more complete (mechanically) bike to work around. For now, see if you can tell the difference.
    20180908_152539_zps3z73qhkp.jpg

    Until next update!
     

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  6. Bryn duFresne-Mann

    Bryn duFresne-Mann Active Member Premium Member

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    Uni work pushed (literally) to the side as I embark on yet another carby rebuild.... a few little niggles with fastners etc as usual with old parts, but no detrimental corrosion and fairly tidy.
    20180908_192250_zpskx1qql8w.jpg

    Crank is also disassembled, starter drive removed, plenty of rotating mass to go there... Currently trying to sweet-talk my way onto a lathe for a couple of days to tidy it up, machine the magneto and polish the bearing surfaces
    20180908_192336_zpsyhhcy1vy.jpg


    In another note... went to the museum again yesterday for some inspiration.... love having this thing a 15min walk from me!
    20180826_163354_zpswpfyyno0.jpg
     
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  7. Bryn duFresne-Mann

    Bryn duFresne-Mann Active Member Premium Member

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    Few hours pottering away this evening:
    20180910_183635_zpsqnjme69u.jpg

    Looking forward to getting a new set of dremmel bits so i can do the fine work and flow the whole intake track.
     
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  8. Bryn duFresne-Mann

    Bryn duFresne-Mann Active Member Premium Member

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    Anyone got any cam profile experience? Ive been flicking through the technical data I have and can find no reason not to run A model cams in my C model, can anybody confirm? Also, I have another motor that came with my 32mm carbs- curious to see if anybody has ever clapped eyes on a set of "D" model cams and could identify the stamp markings (thought id better check if these are legit D model parts or just a set of 32's on my motor) ta
     
  9. Bryn duFresne-Mann

    Bryn duFresne-Mann Active Member Premium Member

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    So,
    A model (confirmed) IN: R1, D, 2
    EX: R2, D, 2

    C/D? model I have IN: R4, E, 3
    EX: R4, D, E (no typo)

    Is anyone able to check a confirmed set of C model cams?
     
  10. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I'll have a look at mine tomorrow
     
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  11. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    I looked into this myself when I thought I found a "B" model & nearly started a thread so people could post there cam markings. I had 7 sets of cams to check through-3× "A" & 4× "C" model,what i found was all the cam profiles measured seemed identical but the markings on the cams were all different, there is a real lack of info on this subject. Here is the few pics I still have. "A" model. 20180227_114643.jpg 20180227_114709.jpg "C" model. 20171229_151010.jpg 20171229_151027.jpg & my "B" model ??? 20171229_150807.jpg 20171229_150824.jpg
     
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  12. Bryn duFresne-Mann

    Bryn duFresne-Mann Active Member Premium Member

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    ahhh the plot thickens!!! I can confirm from the user manual that the 'B' model does not have different cams to the a or c model. D model is the only one listed as having a different cam, with 3 degrees extra duration on the lobes

    All very strange these casting marks, perhaps a tolerance factor, so that parts can be matched???
     
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  13. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Well-Known Member

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    probably small revisions over the engines lifetime , as far as i knew only the carbs and gearing was different on the "R"
     
  14. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Once again megazip parts diagrams prove useful. I dug through every variant of ZXR250 and looked at the camshaft part numbers. The C6 (Malaysian) model is not listed so I can't say anything certain about it.

    The way Kawasaki does their part numbers/diagrams may lead to confusion. On the diagram, the inlet camshaft is 49118. The exhaust camshaft is 49118A. If that part is superceded, it is replaced by 49118B. This may cause confusion as to the 'B' model bikes running different cams. They do not, it is simply a revision of the exhaust camshaft.

    It's a bit messy.

    The C1, C2, C3 and D1 models have a superceded exhaust camshaft. I do not know if there are any differences. Maybe there was a flaw or a cheaper way to make it was discovered.

    The C4, C5, and C7 all use the new exhaust camshaft as standard (I assume, maybe some slipped through the cracks).


    ZX250A1/A2 - Inlet 49118-1069 / Exhaust 49118-1070 - No alternate/superceded part

    ZX250B1/B2 - Inlet 49118-1069 / Exhaust 49118-1070 - No alternate/superceded part

    ZX250C1 - Inlet 49118-1069 / Exhaust 49118-1070 - Exhaust cam alternate part # 49118-1111

    ZX250C2 - Inlet 49118-1069 / Exhaust 49118-1070 - Exhaust cam alternate part # 49118-1111

    ZX250C3 - Inlet 49118-1069 / Exhaust 49118-1070 - Exhaust cam alternate part # 49118-1111

    ZX250C4 - Inlet 49118-1069 / Exhaust 49118-1111 - No alternate/superceded part

    ZX250C5 - Inlet 49118-1069 / Exhaust 49118-1111 - No alternate/superceded part

    ZX250C6 - No information available, model is not listed on megazip

    ZX250C7 - Inlet 49118-1069 / Exhaust 49118-1111 - No alternate/superceded part

    ZX250D1 - Inlet 49118-1069 / Exhaust 49118-1070 - Exhaust cam alternate part # 49118-1111
     
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  15. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    There are also different part #'s for the valve spring retainers.

    A1/B1 use part #12009-1063 which is NLA. No alternate part listed.
    A2/B2 use part #12009-1066 which is NLA. No alternate part listed.
    C1/C2/D1 use part #12009-1063 which is NLA. No alternate part listed.
    C3/C4/C5/C7 use part #12009-1077
    C6 - Unknown.

    This is probably the cause of the confusion on the valve shim sizing.

    My ZXR has a C2 engine, the head is apart, I will measure the I.D. of the retainer where the shim sits. I have 2x 12009-1077 on the way and will measure them when they arrive. My head could be off any ZXR model, you know how it goes with basket cases.
     
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  16. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Continuing on my tirade, cylinder head part numbers. A/B models run different heads. No superceded part number. I assume this is because the bore/stroke is different on A/B compared to C/D. Interestingly, the valve part numbers are different from A/B to C/D. Again I assume because of bore/stroke being different.

    Cylinder head

    A/B - 11008-1215
    C/D - 11008-1260 (C6 uknown)

    Valves

    A/B - Inlet 12004-1089 / Exhaust 12005-1125
    C/D - Inlet 12004-1105 / Exhaust 12005-1167
     
  17. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Well-Known Member

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    Also just some info to add to that thread about shim sizes if someone wants to move it @GreyImport. My A2 uses the 7.9mm shims. Guessing that`s due to the a2 being like the series 2 hence why it has the different forks and swingarm from the c
     

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