Pinned Hone & Fit New Rings

Great thread.. had another good read of it..
Now I am not sure about other manufacturers but Honda apparently run very tight bore to piston clearances due to the technology in the piston materials and expansion rates etc.. there have been many instances where "Engine builders" thought they knew better and that the data in the factory manual was wrong and bored them with significantly more clearance only to find the rebuilt engine was basically worn out before they even started... now the caveat is that Aftermarket (made in china) may not have the same technology in the materials... so as always.. use the specs from the supplier.
the Piston I will be using in the SRX has all the machining details in the box and that will be what I want my machinist to use.. this is a Wiseco 1mm oversize Forged piston..

 

The Wiseco forged piston's can sometime's be a little noisy till they warm up due to the expansion of the alloy's used.

Then there's the Wossener forged piston's, on their site it say's the clearance is already built in to the piston, but they have a recommended bore size written on each piston box too.
https://wossnerpistons.com/pages/piston-installation-instructions

 

These are the machining specs for my Wiseco Forged Piston.. there is also some good info in the instructions for the rings which I will scan later and post up.. it all ties in with the original post on honing etc.

Thee piston to bore clearance isnt quite the same as a Ducati or the SOHC Hond'a but its not far off

 

How do you deglaze if you don't use a honing tool? I use my hone to take off a very tiny amount of metal to remove the polished surface where the rings run.
I guess that is where the use of both terms for the same procedure come from.

 

To "deglaze" is remove shiny or smooth surfaces... most references relate to cooking but by definition the meaning is the same...and to hone... well the below pic is from the Cambridge Dictionary..


So the terminology has been around for a long time and can be used in many different circumstances.. but in this instance they are being used to describe how to take a used (not necessarily worn) cylinder and prepare it for new pistons or rings or even for the original rings, to give them the best possible chance of performing as they were originally designed.

The following pics are the Installation instructions from Wiseco who are a well respected manufacturer of not only performance engine products but also OEM products as well..

 

This was posted on another forum.
https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/3954/rotation-of-piston-rings
I still prefer to site them as per the manual, even if they run 'rings' around the piston when the engine is running.

 

Yep, I prefer to use fairly fine grade stones so it doesn’t remove much metal. Use plenty of oil to lubricate and make sure it is a controlled smooth action so you get a good crosshatch.
Then afterwards, clean, clean and then clean again in hot soapy water, wipe dry with a lint free white cloth ( you will know it is clean then) and finally oil the surface to stop flash rusting.
If I have forgotten anything I am sure @Murdo will add or correct as required.


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I think they do different slightly different tasks. The spring-loaded ones are meant to be used (first) to hone and help keep the bore true/straight before using and the dunny brush ones which are for scoring the bore with crosshatching. The local expert is @Murdo so he can confirm what the correct process is as @Andych said.

 

The spring loaded will be fine for just busting the glaze before new rings, but if there is any wear of parts of the bore then the stones will glide over the top of the wear areas and not contact. The brush type is better for glaze busting as it will follow the worn areas better. I find WD-40 to be fine for a cutting oil. Wash the bores with Kerosene then with hot strong soapy water and blow dry with air line or hair dryer. Then get a piece of white cotton cloth with some engine oil on it and wipe out the bores. This will stop rust and will show you if there is any grit left in the hone marks by being deposited on the rag, in which case you will need to wash again and wipe with the oily rag until it comes out clean.
Remember, the hone is only used to take off the top 1/2 thousands of an inch (whatever that is in metric) not bore the cylinder bigger so only a few passes is all that is usually required.