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Solved Spada owners - I need your help!

Discussion in 'Honda 250cc Twins' started by supanaut, May 23, 2019.

  1. supanaut

    supanaut Active Member

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    1990 Honda Spada 1980 Honda CB400N 1984 Yamaha XV1000 1972 Honda CB350F
    Front end has a bit of play back and forth and cant seem to tighten the top nut any tighter.

    Here's some pics:

    IMG_5677.JPG
    IMG_5676.JPG
    I have this bad feeling that there's some bits missing...
    Screen Shot 2019-05-22 at 9.15.40 pm copy.jpg

    Are these hidden under the top clamp on the Spadas or are mine just plain missing?

    If you could compare my pics to your Spadas that would be great.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    You may be correct about missing bits. Easiest way to confirm is to pull off the top triple and see. Shouldn't be too difficult.
     
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  3. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    This is a head stem nut to tighten things up ... #4 in your schematic by the look of it ... take off that top nut and washer

    This one is from a Yamaha FZR ....

    head stem nut.png
     
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  4. Midnightlight

    Midnightlight Active Member

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    If you don't know its service history then it would a good idea to pull the top triple clamp and inspecting the bearings, its most likely the cause of excessive play. Tightening it up without check would just cause quicker failure of the bearings.
     
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  5. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  6. Gizziracer

    Gizziracer Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    There should only be a 30mm capscrew and washer above the top of the tripple clamp which should be tightened to 76psi. If you don't feel confident removing the top clamp just loosen the 30mm capscrew and tap the serrated nut under the tripple clamp with a screw driver and hammer about 1/5th of a turn clockwise. This will tighten it and the slack will disappear,(may take a little less or more turning but don't be too violent, should move quite easily, (way better to be a little loose than too tight). Bear in mind that more than likely these bearings have never been serviced, adjusted or greased in the past 30 years. If you want to do the job properly though jack up the bike (loosen all nuts first), remove the wheel, forks, mudguard, handlebar,(this can be used as a lever to loosen stuck forks), top tripple clamp, lock nut, top bearing, inspect races and bearings, clean with kerosene, dry with compressed air without spinning bearings, re grease thoroughly with bearing grease,( lower bottom bearing can be inspected without totally removing bottom clamp.. Just lower it, clean and re grease in situ, its very easy to make errors in cabling if the bottom clamp is totally removed and this can really cause serious handling issues than make a too loose bearing the very least of your worries,..
     
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  7. supanaut

    supanaut Active Member

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    @Linkin @GreyImport @Midnightlight @Gizziracer
    Thanks guys, just the info I was after. So I'm off to the wreckers on Saturday to get the lock nut, lock washer and top thread, and have ordered new bearings which hopefully will arrive next week. I don't really have a decent workspace so will book in bay time at the community workshop that Im a member of to do it properly.
     
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  8. Gizziracer

    Gizziracer Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Hi again, I'd be very surprised if there are any parts missing in your spadas head stock. When it left me it was all ok. All you really need is a rear paddock stand and a car jack , carefully placed towards the front of the sump, (with a piece of wood to protect the sump), to get the front wheel off the ground,, Just ensure you crack all the bolts before jacking up the bike(leave one tripple clamp tight) , after cracking it and re tightening, so the whole front end doesn't collapse. These bearings rarely fail, I guess its cause the bikes are so light and the aren't so good at wheel standing:) I reckon you will find all you need to do is clean, re grease, and re torque
     
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  9. Gizziracer

    Gizziracer Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    That’s how it should look.. only room to insert a thin screw driver to do the ‘’dodgey” hammer and driver adjustment, if you shine a torch you will see the locating serrations for the factory tool

    D28370EE-4B87-4624-9222-8C92B1CDFB50.jpeg
     
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  10. jmw76

    jmw76 Well-Known Member

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    Looks similar to MC22 arrangement.
    On the MC22, the top clamp is recessed and the top nut is hidden within the recess.
    Your pic looks fine to me. The nut is likely to be there.
    You can easily remove the top clamp to have a look.
    Any movement is likely to be in the bearings I suspect.
    Just replace them.
     
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  11. supanaut

    supanaut Active Member

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    I have no doubt that it was all good when it left you, I can see the pride you take in your work. What concerns me is that he said he had someone (he gave me their card and said they were a really good mechanic lol) replace the front forks as they were rusted and I wasn't sure if they changed the whole front end or not. When I changed the oil filter the washers that sit on top of the spring were missing and I got worried they may have lost other bits.
     
  12. supanaut

    supanaut Active Member

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    Thanks for the replies everyone. Ended up that it was missing the lock nut and the lock washer. All fixed now and the difference in handling is like chalk and cheese.
     
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