Hi everyone, Just bought a 2013 megelli 250r and would like some instructions to get it going properly. I bourght off this guy who had it sitting since 2014. Thus far it does start and run but not very well. I've put new fresh fuel 98 and changed spark plug to ngk as risky recommend in a different post. It has helped. But now trying to remove carby to give a proper clean bit having so much trouble removing fuel tank. I've also read to adjust vavles and in stall a non vacuum tap. Which already has a free flow tap. I was able to give it a quick ride at low rpms but anything above 4 to 5 thou would start cough and splatter. I do like the bike not fussed about power as my wife and I want to go riding together as she has a 250 as well. Thank you in advance for your help.
Thank you greyimport, I thourght there maybe something holding it at the front of the tank. I just couldn't find what. Any idea how to remove front grommets and I'll have a look after the weekend. BTW, we're did you find the diagram? From a workshop manual?
Grommets will be slotted into the tank and they just push onto metal 'tabs' that are part of the frame ... u may have to lift a little as u pull back .... Im just going on what Ive seen on other bikes Info we have on the Megelli is here ... https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/categories/megelli.8/ requires "premium membership" (helps pay the forum costs ) https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?account/upgrades
Welcome to the forum Checking/adjusting the valve clearance's sound's like a good idea too, most chinese engine's have the clearance's set too tight from the factory
welcome. lift tank at rear and slide up backwards. has 2 rubber u on each side of tank at front. do away with vacuuum operated tap. fuel tank has sender in bottom so watch the wire. speedo,s are optimistic. valve clearances will be tight so readjust on loose side- 4/6 thou. when valves are tight the motor will not start when hot.if motor binds on electric starter the rhs crank case cracks internally so buy a new motor.have a couple but not a great fan of them. if original tyres are on it buy a new set made anywhere except china.message if any problems. put ball bearing in vacuum tube to seal it off.
Hi guys thourght I'll give you an update. It appears that the there are two bolts holding the tank in place but also notices that the tank was held in place buy the filler cap. I'll upload photos 1) remove 'tank shield by unbolting the 2 back bolts, side bolts on either side and 4 bolts that hold filler cap down then lift off. 2) next remove these 3 bolts 3) drain fuel from line and tank and unplug fuel level gauge.
By the looks of things the carby does look clean to me but I could be wrong as I'm not an expert. Also notice the the air filter looks like it needs to be replaced. What do you guys think. Any idea what would be the replacement air filter. Will give the vavles ago tomorrow if I have time and report back
That air filter looks very clogged, I'd be replacing it. You need to take fuel bowl off the carb and inspect the jets.
Hi guys, Just a quick update, I've had a look at the bowl of the carby and it looks clean to me (but then again I'm only learning) but when trying to put back together the rubber gasket has been flattened and does not quite fit any more. So I've been looking for a TK MV34 rebuild kit but no avail. I've also been looking at other carby from the zongshen rx3 which look the same and have the same diameter as the TK MV34. But also been looking at maybe getting a 36mm 49mm carby. It slightly bigger. So I'm just wondering what you guy think and maybe opinions? Yamaha yfm 400 or something similar I haven't done the vavles yet as I been busy with the wife's ninja
Cleaning a carburettor requires all the jets (little brass pieces) to be removed and blown through with compressed air to be sure the passages in carb body and jets are clear. To buy a bigger carb at this point would be foolish, better to get yours clean, adjust the valves and get the engine running right. Fitting a bigger carb without doing anything to improve engine breathing usually results in a slower bike that uses more fuel. Most standard carbs can flow enough air for small up grades of the engine and still keep the smooth running of a standard bike.
You might be able to boil the fuel bowl gasket in a pot of water, it might go back into shape Sometime's even soaking them in petrol for a while the rubber will expand, then dry it off with a clean rag and leave it in the sun for the fuel to evaporate
Hi all, thourght I just give you guys an update as I had a chance to do the vavles on the bike. Exhaust valves were already a 8thou. But the intake vavles were at 2thou or less. Adjusted them and had the bike going nicely and quieter. Started it up this morning first go but stalled and has not started since. I've checked the fuel filter and she is empty. I think that's the problem at the moment. So over the next few days I'll look in to getting a normal off on tap and try to figure which part of the carby I need to block. Thank you guys for the help thus far. I'll report back
Morning all, hope everyone is well and had a great weekend. I need a little bit of help finding which line I need to block for the vacuum line please. Sorry I don't know much about carburetors in general. I've got 3 lines coming out of the carby. I've tried to research it but still no idea. Any help would be great.
Can you take some pics showing the fuel lines & petcock and post them? Sounds like there may be a vacuum setup for getting fuel out of the tank, but I'm not a Megelli person, so not sure. What suburb are you in? Have you thought about joining Club250 (Melbourne-based 2fiftycc group)? They have workshop nights and plenty of people to help when you need another set of eyes.
Hi all, just another quick update, Bike still not starting. It's cranking but won't fire up. Check fuel line and it's now getting fuel, and can smell it through the exsaust. Checked spark and appear to be good. Check starting clutch and also good. I'm at a bit of a lose now.