Thanks, its always nice to have visual confirmation, I tried looking at exploded diagrams but they are not clear enough.
Ok so with the carby rebuild almost wrapped up I decided to check valve clearances today, opening up the cam cover I was very pleased with how clean the engine was inside, it appears to have had regular oil changes. After running the feeler gauges through I have a few that are a little tight, mainly the inlet side, I have never done shim changes before so is this process easier to do with the motor in or out of the bike and any tips or tricks to make the job as painless as possible.
ZXR's are 7.95mm shims, be careful has 7.48mm's will fit but are free to move around under the bucket, precision shims should have the correct shims in stock, I've been meaning to send him a ZXR valve spring retainer for a while (oops)
Thanks, I did see a thread on that, I'm guessing if I take the cam chain tensioner out I can then remove one cam at a time if needed. I plan to try and read over the manual tomorrow, and see what detail in goes into regarding shim changes, I hope I can leave the clutch cover on.
So progress has been continuing at a reasonable pace, Last week I pulled the top end of the motor apart to look at valve clearances and in total I have ordered 11 shims to make adjustments. I found it interesting that every single shim was measured with a diameter of around 7.48 with some measuring at 7.50, to be honest I cant see the larger 7.95 shims fitting. Shim are coming from precision shims and should be here by Friday, once that's all done I can finish cleaning up the outside of the motor and It can go back in the frame. I was pleased with how clean the inside of the motor is, only a very small rub on the top of the cam cover from the timing chain and the cam tensioner looks to be in very good condition. Carbies have been rebuilt too, the ultrasonic cleaner does wonders on these. Rear brakes have been stripped cleaned and rebuilt, foot pegs and mounts have been cleaned up and the R6 rear shock assembly is finished and fully installed, I did have to machine up some new bushes to go in the frame for the top shock mount as the r6 uses a 10mm bolt verses the standard 12mm that Kawasaki uses. If anyone has a spare number 4 carb inlet manifold in nice condition I would be interested in buying one.
Measure the inside of the valve spring retainer. Mine measured just over 7.95mm and the new one I ordered from mega zip which supersedes two old versions also measured that. If yours are ~7.50mm then it confirms that there are two different versions at least. My ZXR was a Malaysian built c model.
I have previously sent Chris Bullen (from Precision Shims) information about the shims for ZXR250's. Every time I order I have to remind him not to send me the 7.5 size. First pic is normal size and "close". Second pic is Chris' shims. Nice that he stamps the thickness on the shim, but pointless if the shim moves around (in my ZXR head).
@Linkin is probably right about there being two sizes. All of my bikes are A model engines, so maybe they have 8.0 and other models have a smaller recess. Must be confusing for Chris if there's no spec anywhere. I will check all mine before ordering again. Thanks for doing the measure @pete05 Can you take a pic after you put Chris' shims in the head? Just want to see if there's a gap (guessing not).
Goooood job! I had 2 pair of original front discs, need to renew. Did you replaced pawls (sorry, i don't know if it's the correct word...), or did you paint discs around them?
Valve shims arrived within 24hr of ordering from Precision shims so I set about putting the top end together, I need a little advice, with cam timing, in my photos you can see the cams lines are parallel with the head but the crank mark is slightly off, Im thinking this may be cam chain wear causing the slight variation what are peoples thoughts on this, chain wear or a tooth off on the crank gear?
Ok thanks, I had another go but I have a feeling the chain has some wear in it, I was able to get the inlet cam correct with the crank alignment but the exhaust cam is about 1/2 a tooth off, so exhaust cam lags a little.
All the chain slack must be on the inlet side, fit the exhaust cam first and make sure the chain is right around it. Stretched cam chain is likely if you can't get the marks perfectly aligned. Tensioners on the ZXR's are known to go bad/noisy quickly.
The tensioner is in good shape and I did fit the exhaust cam first, I would change the chain but I think I will wait until I run the engine and see what the compression is like, if I have to re ring the motor then I will do the chain then.
So While I am waiting for my 1/4 drive torque wrench to turn up in the mail so I can torque up the cam box correctly I started looking at the front calipers today and they are very sad looking with 3 out of 4 seals popped out. Has anyone bought the seal kits from the UK and can confirm they are decent quality? I quoted up buying just the seals and boots from Kawasaki Australia and it was $102 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kawasak...m258d450a85:g:DecAAMXQ74JTV6Yb&frcectupt=true
They run their business completely around brakes and are more than just an eBay seller. The seals I bought were a good fit and i have no reason to doubt that they will be fine.