Its really hard to get the smoke back in once you have let it out... Negative earth smoke is pretty hard to come by as well... I have only seen the Lucas Positive Earth smoke before.
My jar of smoke ran out a few year's ago And a bit more info about smoke in wiring here- Positive ground depends on proper circuit functioning, which is the transmission of negative ions by retention of the visible spectral manifestation known as "smoke". Smoke is the thing that makes electrical circuits work. We know this to be true because every time one lets the smoke out of an electrical circuit, it stops working. This can be verified repeatedly through empirical testing. For example, if one places a copper bar across the terminals of a battery, prodigious quantities of smoke are liberated and the battery shortly ceases to function. In addition, if one observes smoke escaping from an electrical component such as a Lucas voltage regulator, it will also be observed that the component no longer functions. The logic is elementary and inescapable! The function of the wiring harness is to conduct the smoke from one device to another. When the wiring springs a leak and lets all the smoke out of the system, nothing works afterward. Starter motors were considered unsuitable for British motorcycles for some time largely because they consumed large quantities of smoke, requiring very unsightly large wires. It has been reported that Lucas electrical components are possibly more prone to electrical leakage than their Bosch, Japanese or American counterparts. Experts point out that this is because Lucas is British, and all things British leak. British engines leak oil, British shock absorbers, hydraulic forks and disk brake systems leak fluid, British tires leak air and British Intelligence leaks national defense secrets. Therefore, it follows that British electrical systems must leak smoke. Once again, the logic is clear and inescapable. In conclusion, the basic concept of transmission of electrical energy in the form of smoke provides a logical explanation of the mysteries of electrical components especially British units manufactured by Joseph Lucas, Ltd. And remember: "A gentleman does not motor about after dark." Joseph Lucas "The Prince of Darkness" 1842-1903
Sounds like very sound logic to me. I'll have to save that for future reference and to educate my mates. Guess its time to crack out the multimeter
So the culprit turned out to be the circuit breaker. Fried the whole thing. It measured like 15M ohms and rattled when i shook it. Replaced with a 15 dollar fuse holder and 20A fuse. The hunt for the short continues...
Where was the circuit breaker fitted? You should only have the 4 plastic fuses in the fuse box (plus 2x spare's)
Your stickers are coming along. Taking me a while to clean up the lettering from the scans of the originals. I hope to have the EXUP and FZR ones done this weekend sometime and will print out the other Yamaha ones as well. The FZR ones will be a little more tricky as they will have the silver background to get lined up as well. Pics are before I put the transfer tape over the top.
Breaker was the main one coming off the positive battery terminal. I think the 2KR only have a main fuse, hard to be certain with the japanese manual but if it was ever there its not any more. Those stickers are a work of art BlueDragon, looks brilliant. Working theory currently is, since the wires were quite 'customised', when i repaired them back to stock I connected a high beam wire to the thermofan because the dirty wires looked black rather than blue/black. Then when I revvved it, stator chucked out more power, enough to blow some things up. Spent 2 hours with a multimeter checking every wire i could and thats the biggest suspect
Once again, my money and time got distracted for a few weeks. Been rebuilding the dirt bikes shock and linkage. So bike starts well now, but cylinder 4 is giving me some problems. It can run, it just chooses to come and go. I checked the jets and they were clean as, plug looks good too. I did some googling and tried swapping caps with cylinder 3 and that seemed to help. Tried the spray bottle on headers and after a few mins they were all hot, except 4 which was definitely cooler. Anyway, got it revving nicely and I made a short clip. Would be great if anyone can hear if theres any problems... new link Excuse the messy, too-small shed
The video has no sound for me ? There's no speaker on the bottom right of the video with enable/disable ?
So are all the spark plug's firing and it idle's good ? If not, have you checked the resistance through the the spark plug cap's ? unsecrew them off each lead and test the Ohm's, use the 20K Ohm's setting on you DMM They should read around 10,000 Ohm's if they're good If not they may have corrosion inside them Also have you ever trimmed back the coil lead's (10mm is usually enough), this give's the screw in the spark plug cap fresh wire to screw in when you reasseble them But before cutting make sure they'll still reach if you cut them back
Righto checked all the caps and one was cactus. Read around 6M ohm. Rest were around 8.5-8.9K ohm. I'll add the cap to the list of things to replace, but also the cylinder it was on was not number 4 and fired fine. Any other ideas? Also battery voltage is too high at 5Krpm, about 18v but I'll look into that after this
Sounds about right for this bike, what with it being an electrical component. Is it the FZR add-ons thread? Did a shuffle of the caps and still not firing consistently. Im looking at the carbs again now since carbie cleaner makes it fire
Since the battery is pretty beefy, could i just disconnect the reg/rec and recharge after use? Thanks for the warning