Project FZR fix up

I'd say the fuel level accuracy is down to how accurately you can read 9.2mm at the bottom of the meniscus marked on the tube 0.5mm is pretty accurate, if you do get fussy, make the adjustments and accurate measurements with the float height

Worth turning the fuel tap off overnight whilst the battery is charging, just in case

As for the choke, you should pull it on and leave it on till it starts

 

I'm assuming that the fuel levels were a little high as a result of the bike being on the stand at the back, now adjusted lower and in spec

Choke on?

I think @my67xr is the guru of the mixture screws, I note you have yours at 2 turns out - IIRC - it's 2.5 turns recommended

EDIT - wondering if there's a switch, kill switch that's not 100% as you seem to have difficulty getting it started from one day to the next when no changes have been made to anything, other than that, turned the fuel tap back on after adjusting the fuel height?

 

I'd be interested to know what the voltage is (voltage drop) when you're cranking it over - I assume yours has the silly mod (to satisfy registration requirements) of removing the headlight switch so that they are on whenever the key is on.

You could try unplugging the headlights - also do you have a jumper battery available?

So many have been through the blown regulator/rectifier I've lost track, lazy me not reading back through the thread - have you had to replace yours?

 

I'd check the oil level if you've had fuel leak through the carbs into the cylinders - need the fuel tap in line, working and switch it off when the bike is sitting

Fuel pump installed? They will run without one no problems, just wondering if there's no fuel pump then pressure straight from the tank might be causing flooding when it's left for long enough

If the oil smells of heavily petrol it needs to go

Probably hunting as it's on the lean end at 1.5 turns out - try 2.25 turns out

 

Most likely a dying regulator, but do the following:

Check and clean/sand the battery terminals, main fuse & holder, starter & earth leads, starter solenoid connections, and reg/rec plug. Particularly important is the earth for the R/R as it's body earth.

You should check the stator as well, resistance across each phase should be equal, and each phase should have infinite resistance (open circuit) to earth, and even AC voltage output at 5,000rpm

 

Reg/rectifier looks to have been one electrical gremlin causing you to burn through batteries

@Linkin has given you the perfect suggestions - reg/plug is a definite important one - should be 14.3v~15.3v @ 5K RPM
Stator coil resistance 0.36Ω ± 20% - at that low resistance check for consistency between the coils as meter lead resistance will be a factor unless you have an analogue meter which can be zeroed

That seemed to rev quite well FWIW - carb balance and tune idle mixture - we did mention that the carbs are finnicky

 

stator has three white wires - you test from the plug end which goes to the rectifier/regulator which is near the battery, on the frame underneath the seat - it has a 4 wire plug, 3 of which will be white - When you unplug it, you'll see the condition of the connector itself, some will show clear evidence of burning or arcing, any corrosion build up can be cleaned with vinegar then rinsed with water

On that plug to the rectifier/regulator - Test the resistance between those three white wires 1<->2, 1<->3 and 2<->3 all 3 should be consistent

With the engine running you can test for AC voltage into the back of the rectifier/regulator plug - I have actually done this with a 120V globe plugged into that plug to check that it had both voltage and current, but I had the stator unplugged from the rectifier/regulator at the time, which I've since read isn't recommended - so just test for voltage between those three white wires

hope this helps

EDIT - I know several forum members have made manometers simply out of 4 pieces of clear tube into a bottle with a coloured liquid - I made one with 90W gear oil and automatic transmission fluid for colour
@my67xr I believe documents his build of one in a thread, or perhaps it was @GreyImport - cheap simple and effective