Project FZR150 Bucket race motor

Something I've read about which you're probably already aware of is needing to fool the box if the EXUP is removed, most references I see are in relation to the FZR400, but you've had it running on that box already

What about the other safety interlocks, side stand, clutch and gear selector, I assume they're out of the loom so not a factor

Electrical gremlins are no fun

 

Yes, I think you're correct, Thursday laziness prevents me from re-reading the thread to see which TCi @gregt is using

I didn't have an awful lot of trouble opening my TCI to replace the capacitors, I think based upon your posts about it.

One good thing is that the signal and power transistors for the spark are also easily available - once the hot glue/silicon is cleaned off of the components, you could basically replace all of the IC's and semiconductors for less than $30

Power transistors when they lose it, fortunately there's usually outward signs of their failure that remind me of that scene with John Hurt at breakfast in Alien

One other option is perhaps with the power going to the unit itself then maybe the voltage regulator and/or the power transistor is KAPUT depriving the unit of power internally
IIRC - the same applies, fairly certain that those components are available at Jaycar, and if not then RS components

 

OK, so that straight 12v is basically perfect and right about what it would be receiving when starting, plus you've got continuity through the VR pickup.

What about the basics - carbon on the plugs?
Fresh plugs?

It's easy to miss the simple stuff looking for complex reasons inside mysterious ignition boxes.

Nothing else changed from when it was running previously?

 

OK - so I thought I'd look at the parts catalogues to see if there's a different part number for the VR pickups

There are part numbers for the screws and washers that hold the pickup in place, but not for the pickup itself, unless it's considered part of the stator assembly - tell me I've been looking straight at it but cannot see it, even go so far to call me nuts or a loon and I'll take your diagnosis as gospel and seek the help I might desperately need

See screenshots of the parts catalogues

2KR


3LN

 

Well the act of unplugging and replugging things back in may have been the trick and you would have moved and manipulated the wires in the process - perhaps there's a buildup of verdigris on the crimps from the VR sensor also - all together adding up to enough to mute the signal - all hypothetical supposition

If the problem returns I'd be putting new crimps onto the VR sensor wires in the plug as a first step

All Hail The Flying Spaghetti Monster
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flying_Spaghetti_Monster