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Oil & Filter Change

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Boz, Feb 13, 2005.

  1. Boz

    Boz New Member

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    to start: you will need spanners/wrenches, alan keys, a replacement oil filter, around 2.5 litres of replacement oil. DO NOT USE ANY OIL THAT HAS FRICTION MODIFIERS - this is often the case with car oil. Make sure that the oil you have is appropriate for the bike. You can buy oil specifically branded for bikes. As for normal vs. synthetic - your choice. Synthetic will last longer, normal is cheaper...

    Process to change oil and Filter:

    1) Remove main fairings
    2) Run the bike for a brief amount of time (this is just to get the oil warmed up so it is easier to drain). 5 minutes should be enough. not necessary but I find it makes things easier.
    2.5) Find yourself a 'drip' container. the container should be at least able to hold 3 liters, and will need to be able to slide under the bike. Also - if you don't want to get oil in your work area spread out some newspapers under the bike (a couple of layers is advised)
    3) On the left hand side, at the bottom of the bike, in front of the side stand you will see a hex bolt with a screw also in it. Take a wrench/spanner and open this bolt (do not use the screw - not sure why this is there). Be ready with your drip container as the oil will come out quickly! And also be wary as it may be hot so try not to get any on your hands (have a towel/rag handy just in case...). If the nut falls into the oil container just leave it for now - you can collect it later.

    ** If all you wanted to do is change the oil, you can now jump to step 10.
    FOR FZR's with oil filter in sump:
    4) The oil filter on the fzr 250 is at the bottom of the engine. For exup models it is likely covered by the exhaust and you will ahve to remove the exhaust to get to it (you can either totally remove it or you can 'rotate' it around on the exup cables - I always just removed it).
    5) After you have removed the exhaust (or otherwise have access to the filter - it is a small round cap with 3 bolts) use an allan key to remove the bolts. Again have your rag ready and drip tray as some more oil will come out.
    6) After all 3 bolts are out the filter will fall out.
    7) Get your new filter, and pour some oil into the middle of it. Also, take some oil and rub it around the filter seal with your finger.
    8) Re-install the oil filter using the same 3 bolts.
    Some fzrTo take off the oil filter on the fzr250 it is easiest if you remove the exhaust
    9) put the exhaust back on (if necessary)

    FOR FZR's with screw in type filter
    4) Unscrew the filter after oil has pretty much stopped pouring. You may need a special 'oil filter spanner/wrench' to do this (if you don't have one you can always punch a long screwdriver through and turn it that way)
    5) Put some oil around the base of the new filter.
    6)Screw the filter on. This should be tight, but not excessively tight!

    ***

    10) Replace the bolt where the oil drained out from. Make sure it is tight - you don't want this bolt falling off.
    11) Open the oil reservoir (right side, by your knee when sitting on the bike), and slowly pour replacement oil into the bike. Start with about 1.8 litres.
    12) After you put in 1.8 litres of oil, gradually add oil bit by bit - constantly checking the site glass (don't forget you need to put the bike upright when checking the site glass). WHen the oil reaches between the two lines you are good to go.
    13) Turn the bike on - it may not start first time, but it will eventually...
    14) Replace fairings.
    15) After bike has run for a few minutes (and cooled preferably), turn off and check oil - it is normal for this to have gone down a bit as the filter fills with oil. Top-up as necessary. (Check regularly!)


    Done.
     
  2. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    The philips head is part of the nut. It just allows one to remove the nut quickly with a screwdriver once the nut is loose.

    My buggy with a Yami XT600 engine has an identical oil drain nut.

    DAVE
     
  3. grendal

    grendal New Member

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    Yes, but if you were to use a screwdriver to undo a tight nut...you will surely damage and round it off.

    Easier just to use a socket.
     
  4. commanda

    commanda New Member

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    On the 2KR, the drain nut is front and centre (look from the front of the bike between the exhausts). And it's 19 mm.

    A 19mm socket on a nice long extension bar is the go. There isn't really enough room for a ring spanner.

    Amanda
     
  5. Boz

    Boz New Member

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    really? Must be slightly different on different 2kr's - my old 2kr (1988) was definitely from the side.
     
  6. commanda

    commanda New Member

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    Yes, really.
    1988 vintage. Engine number is 1HX115415.

    Amanda
     
  7. grendal

    grendal New Member

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    Gotta luv the 8 months later replies. lol.
     
  8. MrR2

    MrR2 New Member

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    Hey guys nice walk through. Just a dumb question from a learner lol, what sort of oil do u need to use? can anyone give me a name/brand and what grade etc. Thanks!
     
  9. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    The recommended options are 10W-30 or 20W-40 viscosity.

    Motul 5100
    CASTROL ACTIV 4T
    Castrol Power 1 Racing
    Valvoline PROBLEND 15W-40
    Valvoline XLD ENGINE ARMOUR 15W-40
    Shell Advance Ultra 4 10W-40
    Shell Advance VSX 4 15W-50

    Just a quick few I found. There are lots of other good oils - Not in any particular order but the Motul seems to be popular
     
  10. brad1

    brad1 New Member

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    Just make sure you check first, but I'm pretty sure in Australia that friction modifiers are banned due to the negative effects on machinery.
     
  11. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    I have a feeling it is because of the negative effects on the environment?

    see this post for more oil selections
    <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=2838">http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=2838</a><!-- m -->
     
  12. brad1

    brad1 New Member

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    I was told it was due to the excessive numbers of glazed bores- what environmental impact did it have??
     
  13. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    The amount of ZDDP used in oil was reduced to help with catayltyic converter life. This was one of the main ingredients used in energy conserving (friction modified) oils.

    Here are a couple of links to some info on the subject and I have read other websites with similar stories.
    <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_dialkyldithiophosphate">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_dialk ... ophosphate</a><!-- m -->
    <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html">http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html</a><!-- m -->

    Brad, after reading these sites there is some confirmation of problems with rings sealing when changing to an improved oil on an engine that has been run for a long time on a lesser oil. It really is an interesting subject.
     
  14. brad1

    brad1 New Member

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    Been trying to post this for a while

    ZDDP still is one of the highest used ANTI FRICTION ADDITIVE. This is far different from a FRICTION MODIFIER. Most good oils will see amount of ZDDP present in excess of 1100 PPM. There are plenty of others used as a complete package in each and every oil produced. The anti wear additives and amounts range between brands and specific oils depending on what the final application is, and the intended retail or bulk price.

    There has been some debate as to whether ZDDP actually affects cat. converters. There has also been a couple of reports stating no effects.

    Castrol exclusively use magnesium as one of their main anti friction additives.

    Friction modifiers were banned in Australia (I'm 99% sure they were actually banned) because they caused several billion dollars worth of wear, predominantly in the form of Glazed Bores

    As far as problems changing old motors onto better oils is concerned, apart from anaecdotal evidence supporting this, I have personally experienced a range of old, worn motors from anything in good but worn condition to almost worn out changing onto PM with ZERO negative effects, but plenty of positives.

    This has been true for bikes and cars both fuel injected and carby, mowers and boat motors. 2 machines had infact been burning oil at a rate of 1 litre per 1000k's. Just caught up with the bloke with the ZX6r over 10 000k's and 1 year burned 2 litres of oil.

    My grandfathers 1973 Mk1 escort would be the earliest car I've put onto PM. He doesnt believe in car maintenance, so the last time the oil was changed was when Saddam Husein was in power. I changed him onto PM, then 1000k's later changed again. His 34 year old 1300 cc motor then was able tu pull up hills in 4th gear that he would previously have to change down to 3rd to keep pace. Around 8 months later, no ill effects.

    I have not yet to date seen, heard of or had anyone suggest yet that anything from cars, tractors & agricultural, bikes, mining or heavy transport have had any negative effects from changing to PM. And believe me, I have searched.

    However, I would be very interested to read otherwise!
     

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