Hi guys, This question should be pretty easy for anyone who's ever dropped their Fizzer and broken a handlebar: - how do I remove the RHS bar? I've Removed the bolts holding it, including the one that holds the front shock in place. As an aside, I'm now having trouble re-fitting that bolt in place due to the sleeve inside being sprung... - Do I just need to remove the big nut in the centre of the handlebars and remove the whole section that covers both handlebars? I couldn't get that off yesterday as I need a bigger socket/ring spanner. I've got the RHS bar loose, but it now just slides up and down the forks on that side. - Am I likely to hit any other obstacles here? Any tips on replacing that bolt that holds the pressure on the RHS shock/fork? It's a real bitch to apply that much downward pressure and turn the bolt at the same time. Cheers guys...hopefully I can get this thing back on the road, repaired and sold soon... Bring on the R6!
You have to slide the front forks (suspension) down and out of the handlebars so that you can remove them. Keep in mind that the right hand suspension is connected to the wheel at the bottom (which in turn is connected to the left hand side suspension). So if you want to slide the right hand side down, you ALSO have to slide the left hand side down… or remove the wheel. It's an easy job though, and you're very unlikely to damage anything. Take the weight completely off the front end - either by placing a jack under the EXUP valve, or by hanging the bike from the ceiling (recommended). Then loosten the bolts on the tripple clamp (the thing that holds the front suspension onto the frame, and allows the front end to turn) that hold the forks in place. Loosten the bolts on the handlebars, and you should be able to slip the forks out of the top section of the tripple clamp and out of the handle bars. To replace: Slide the forks back up through the handle bars and through the top of the tripple clamp, tighten the bolts to spec, and then lower the bike back to the ground. As a note, those straps you can get, with ratchets to tighten them up, are perfect for hanging your bike. I use two, each connected to a thick hook through the main suport of my garage. I then wrap them through the frame and use the ratchet to lift the bike off the ground. Each strap can hold up to 700kg, and my bike's been hanging off them for the last 2 months straight without any problems. Note: a bike can't fall over if it's hanging from the ceiling. It can if it's balancing precariously on a jack placed under the EXUP valve. Further Note: if you're hanging it from the ceiling, make sure you're hanging it from something that's STRONG! Ie a main support beam. I'd hate to have you post here that you dropped your bike and tore out half your ceiling at the same time
Thanks mate. This is going to be a more awkward job than I though - I'm doing this in an underground carpark at my flat - not really any thing to hang it from, and don't want to undertake any major work in this sort of enviro. cheers for the advice though...
it's really not major work <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s --> simple, easy, and you can't damage much. All you have to do is loosten six bolts (or is it eight?) , slide the forks down, replace the handle bar, slide the forks up and tighten the bolts. if you can't hang it, then consider putting the bike between two supports / pillars, and tieing a rope from one side of the frame to the pillar on that side, and another rope from the other side of the frame to the other pillar. That way it can't fall over once you've jacked it up.
So much easier to take off the triple. But, then again, my bars can be replaced by undoing 1 allen head bolt at the end of the bar. Or remove the triple and then remove the clamp.
hey guys, kinda related but unrelated at the same time, im trying to replace my handle bat too but the allen key bolt at the front of the clamp, (underside) is not turning cause its worn away, anyideas how i can get it out?
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start with an impact wrench. You can pick these up for about $20 from your local hardware store. Very useful devices. Alternatively (and this is why I posted - it isn't on dansmc site) - you can get reverse thread screws which would work quite well on a stripped allan bolt (most hardware stores again). You pretty much screw these into the hole left on the allan bolt. However, since they are reverse threaded you screw it in opposite direction to normal. After it is gets tight it starts unscrewing the screw with the stripped head (since you were screwing in anti-normal, it means this is actually unscrewing the original bolt). You may have to take a drill and drill into the allan bolt a little though before using the reverse thread method. There are varying sizes of these - each costs about $10-20 (I was surprised when I got one - more than I expected).
This is a much easier way to get it off, no need to support the bike. I have done it both ways. ive replaced too many handlebars on my fizzer. I was allmost going to get woodcrafts clipons, but i managed to get some cheap second handies.
Handlebar replacement - update Okay, I got around to replacing the handlebar a few weeks ago, got it all hooked up again and all seemed good. Once I got my hands on a good floor jack with a nice wide platform to balance the bike on, it was quite easy to do. I also replaced the blinkers on the front because the RHS one got smashed in the same acco that snapped off the RHS handlebar - damn driver ran a red and clipped me. Anyway, so I replaced the blinkers only to find that the fittings weren't right - I was getting intermittend failure on the right blinker. I bought some male and female connectors, snipped off the old fittings and installed the new ones, and still find there's a prob with the right blinker - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Not sure what's going on there, never had a problem before, so maybe there's a bad connection inside the blinker itself, rather than being a wire problem.... Anyway, took the bike for the first ride it's had since some time in May - it was sorely in need of a good run. All seemed okay at first, but then on the way home I noticed my speedo stopped working - it had been working when I started the trip. So a couple of questions for those of you who may know better than I: - What would cause my speedo to play up all of a sudden? I haven't had the dash out at all, but I guess it's conceivable that I bumped something while fiddling around fitting the handlebar/blinkers etc. - Should I keep stuffing around trying to get the blinker working or just stop being a tight-ass and go find a bike-mech? One last question: I live in Newtown - can anyone recommend a reliable mech in this area who won't rip me off too much (in my experience, bike mechs are a rip in general anyway...) Anyone had any experience with Sydney Motorcycle Wreckers in Alexandria? ?They do mechanical and fairing repairs/resprays too - anyone from Sydney know if they're any good? Any advice appreciated guys - apologies for the rambling post.
First things first... no need to take the bike to a mechanic to get the speedo fixed! ============== Speedo... ============== Check the drive spline cable that runs from the left hand side of the front wheel, up into the left hand side of the instrument cluster (at the back). Your probably best off unscrewing it at the wheel end and then trying to turn it to see if you can make the needle move on the speedo. If not, you probably have a snapped cable. Not expensive and not difficult at all to replace. Just unscrew the other end (the bit going into the instrument cluster), then pull the drive spline cable out and make sure it's snapped somewhere along it's length. If it is, then take the sheath and the full cable to a wreckers and find one approximately the same length. It doesn't need to be exact but within an inch is good. If it's not snapped then you need to start looking at the drive end (front wheel) or the receiving end (the instrument cluster). Incase you haven't already guessed... the speedo on these bikes is run of a physical drive cable that is turned by a little mechanism in the front wheel. ============== Blinkers... ============== Check that the bulbs are all clean and making proper contact. Might be worth getting a small file out and cleaning off the contacts in the indicator socket aswell as removing any crud from the bulb bayonet housing. Once you've done that, ensure the connections are all clean and properly fastened. Again, sandpaper or file to clean off the contacts. Then check the connectivity of the wire with a multimeter to make sure the wire hasn't broken or corroded internally. If all that checks out then i'd start looking at the flasher relay.
