Just go to AliExpress and buy new pistons, rings, and piston pins/bearings as a kit. Should be far cheaper than stealership prices and about 95% as good. Chinese rings running in my blue fizzer have not caused catastrophic engine failure (but you'll hear about it if it happens) Examples: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Moto...Kit-For-Honda-nsr250-nsr-250/32277464103.html http://www.aliexpress.com/item/NSR2...Set-for-NSR-250-STD-Standard/32428788738.html http://www.aliexpress.com/item/High...R-250-STD-Standard-Bore-Size/32214558477.html http://www.aliexpress.com/item/NSR2...R-250-STD-Standard-Bore-Size/32431694928.html Have bought from the "Earth Family" mob and all good so far.
Hmm I have looked into AliExpress when fixing other bikes but the NSR has 4 different kinds of cylinders. Most of mine are the "B" stamped cylinder, but there are also A, C or D. Some are unmarked but I think they're D (can't remember exactly). Nonetheless, they're all the same size (54mm), but there are minor differences I think. I've just seen many warnings about using the correct pistons with the marked cylinders.
@KICKERMAN360 Try these guys ... they will 'quote' u a price and availability before u buy http://www.jp-parts.com/index.html
I believe the rings are the same. Fortunately the rings are a Honda common part (probably used in the NSR125 or NSR150, just guessing) so they're relatively cheap from Tyga. I just got some info that Matt from Tyga posted on NSR World: Cyl A - 54.008~54.011 Cyl B - 54.004~54.008 Cyl C - 54.000~54.004 Corresponding to.. Pis B - 53.966~53.969 Pis "" - 53.962~53.965 Pis D - 53.958~53.961 Do you think the Chinese stuff is this accurate? I guess for the sake of $60 it might be worth it seeing as my cylinders are in the middle. Apparently using a looser fitting piston is alright, albeit slightly lower compression.
Can't say, haven't used chinese pistons. Is chinese accuracy as good as Japanese accuracy? If you're worried, try jp-parts with the part number.
Well I've done research and many NSR guys reckon the markings are fairly useless now and it's best to measure the bore of the cylinders and the piston size manually as a double check. So I might think about rolling the dice with the Chinese pistons and use the savings to buy a bore gauge and micrometer. But those tools aren't cheap either. With all that said, I've used Wiseco pistons before and they're made in China. Never had a problem.
Alright u can use a telescopic gauge with a mic to measure instead of bore gauge but u have to master the art of "feel" but they are accurate just not as perfect as bore gauge but a bore gauge can be false if you don't know how to use Also with mic make sure it is calibrated and use in a cool day and not in sun as they can measure diff, in a perfect world 20 degrees as this is what they are calibrated at and the temp diff with tight tolerance can be false hope this makes sense http://www.starrett.com/metrology/m...isplayMode=grid&itemsPerPage=24&sortBy=wp/asc
Pulling the zxr down after a dismal performance at the track on Saturday. Did a lap and a quarter when it started losing revs and eventually stopped. It had done it before and I changed the rectifier thinking that was the problem. Ran good on a shakedown run after that so I thought it was good to go! Have pulled number plug and found it to be slightly oiled up and the gap to be pretty much non existent. Will change them and check leads and clean up all the connections and hopefully that solves the problem. Definitely electrical I believe, fuel delivery seems fine. Any hints are welcome....
@KICKERMAN360 The range is about 10 microns and the skirt clearance is about 40 microns. You said yours are in the middle, so you are unlikely to have a problem if the pistons are within specification. You can always ask the seller what the skirt diameter is at the nominated measuring point and ask them to measure it with a micrometer. Or perhaps you could specify the measurement and tolerance that you want and tell them to send two like that. No harm in asking.
@Zedsled Take off the plug caps from the leads and check for corrosion in the end of the cap .... trim a couple of MMs of the ends of the leads so the screw in the cap has some fresh clean wire to go into.
Noy exactly bike related. But picked up tcx s-zero boots for less than half the rrp Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
Received a correct model CDI for my 3LN7 engine. Popped it in and started the bike. Working so far. Yet to ride anywhere... will report back later
Worked on sorting out the butchery and neglect of 50 yrs on the wiring of the F2tr until my head hurts. Had enough for today, need a ride.
Borrowed Grey's C spanner to adjust my rear shock... wow, that made a massive difference! Numbers from 1-7 marked on the collar, 1 being softest 7 being stiffest. It was set to 6 and bucking me off bumps and made for an uncomfortable ride... Adjusted it down to 2 and WOW! I can sit on the seat without feeling every bloody bump on the road!
Had a cracker of a day. Picked up these bad boys The RG will be parted. Had a seized kick starter. Pulled it down and it looks pretty good. Got the crank spinning but the mains have seen better days The RD i may keep. Had a play around, cleaned carbs, swapped wiring for the coils and she came to life. Will need a bit of work but definitely savable. Tank has pinholes though which is a shame Now onto the score of a lifetime. Picked this puppy up as both screens didn't start. But the sound worked and it appeared to play. Pulled it down and it was a simple burnt solder joint on both screens. Success
Deposit put on my 4x4 getting picked up tomorrow so means it van shopping and should racing rd5 now pumped as