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Project 1992 Kawasaki ZXR250C

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Kirk, Jul 18, 2017.

  1. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I need an opinion before I continue with this bike. Engine oil capacity is 2.6L, I just drained over 4L of mostly fuel. Doesn't look good. Should I do a leak-down test before deciding whether to continue with this bike or send it to motorbike heaven (aka Chris' place)?

    Another job for the day was checking valve clearances. Most of the intake valves are alright but every single exhaust valve is too tight. Minimum 0.20mm and most of them are 0.15 with one or two even worse.

    On the plus side I've now got a completely rebuilt set of carbs. I stripped them down again and split them apart to replace all the o-rings in the fuel and vacuum lines joining the carbs. They then got another blast of carby cleaner, double checked the float levels, and replaced the JIS screws on the bracket holding them together.

    ZTRbZKZ.jpg
    Acgstai.jpg
     
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  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    How was the condition of the cam chain & tensioner?

    That much fuel in the sump means leaky float valves. Only a problem if it has been run like that and left sitting, the bores will be washed of oil, the petrol also thins out the oil and you would lose lubrication, more chance of metal on metal contact. Add to that corrosive combustion chamber gasses and you end up with the motor doing a big end.

    My opinion: Put it back together with fresh oil and carbs that don't leak, see how it runs and go from there.
     
  3. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    that can happen if the previous
    Owner left the petcock on prime
     
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  4. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Thanks. I'll keep going with it then. Having that much oil/fuel in the sump probably also explains why it wouldn't rev at all when I did have it going.

    @Linkin Cam chain is within spec at 127.5mm over 20 links. Tensioner looks alright as well, not sure if there's a specific check to see.
    hEvdE3b.jpg
     
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  5. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Leave the sump plug off , plugs out and carbys off for a few days so the fuel 'evaporates'
     
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  6. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    New tensioner part no 12048-1106
     
  7. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The tensioner is checked by measuring the spring length's i'm pretty sure
     
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  8. DMC

    DMC Active Member

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    Engine sounded lean although it could have just been the fact the oil was so high crank was struggling to spin with all that oil.

    Did you replace the needle and seats?
     
  9. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Yep got the whole kit. Needle and seats, main and pilot jets, air/fuel screw, choke piston, inlet needle, o-rings, bowl drain bolt. Pretty much everything but the float itself and the diaphragm.
     
  10. Cbuzz

    Cbuzz Well-Known Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Spot on ! Did this myself a while ago. Engine was FULL to the TOP of petrol after leaving the petcock on for some time.
     
  11. DMC

    DMC Active Member

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    Is running OK now?
     
  12. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Yeah its the inner spring & bearing that wear on the tensioners, but theres no specs for the springs in the manual amazingly ! Heres a good tensioner I have with the spring length if that helps any, the spring gets shorter as it wears,& theres a part number for that spring that you can get from Kawasaki, the spring & bearing was around $30 from memory. 20170806_205308.jpg
     
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  13. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member

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    Look for grooves on the tensioner and flat spots on the bearings, it may slide rather than roll and lock.
     
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  14. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Yep, the tensioners are like a 2nd oil filter, all the crap accumulates, leaves flat spots on bearings & marks the tensioner wall.
     
  15. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I'm just about to call it on this engine. Looks like a high probability of a bad valve or piston ring.

    I went to start it again this morning after having it running yesterday and about 400mL of oil has mysteriously disappeared. So I topped it up again and it took me about 15 minutes to get it started. Once started and warmed up a bit it runs and revs alright but there's a lot of air coming through the engine breather into the airbox, and it's still dumping fuel into the oil.

    Just waiting for a 10mm adapter for my compression tester so I can see who the culprit is. Either way I don't have that much of an attachment to this bike so not planning on forking the money out to fix it. Will probably be parted out.
     
  16. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member

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    But it's so pretty... In the photos, at least. Fuel in the oil is an overflowing carbie, needle or o-ring not sealing. This would also flood the bike and make it hard to start. Unless @kiffsta has a good set of carbies for you?
     
  17. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Hmmm I'm not sure what to think. This is the exact same issue that it had before I even touched the carbies. Now they have been fully rebuilt with new everything that I can purchase and it's still showing the same problem?

    The petcock is ruled out because I'm completely bypassing it and pouring fuel straight into the carbies with a funnel. The fuel level in the line seems to hold ok and it's got brand new float needles and seats. It only seems to get fuel in the oil when it's running.

    At this point I think I'll still go the compression test route before spending any more money. Would be good to know the condition of the engine anyway.
     
  18. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Kirk, do the comp test and once you have those results go for the leakdown test. The only other thing I would recommend is test the exhaust header heat when it's running. I'm guessing one of the headers will be colder than the others.
     
  19. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Will do. The funny thing is once I get it running it goes fine and doesn't seem like it's missing on a cylinder.

    @kiffsta has just couriered a good set of carbs so I can test and rule that out. Compression tester adapter is on the way so hopefully I'll know a bit more by the end of the week. I've got Friday off work so will get stuck into it then.
     
  20. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Yeh, it's hard to say what's going on without some tests. It could be as simple as an inlet valve being slightly stuck or not sealing properly. Just out of curiosity, did you check the floats float?
     

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