Help 250cc Intruder interchangable parts

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Just thought I provide a little update on this RR and stator...

Ok, "professional" shop mechanic assessed the fault to a failed RR and stator - asking the high $750 and the high $350 just for the replacement parts + labour.
I initially found these quotes silly beyond beliefs and decided to take the bike home and do my homework and repair myself.
Several pointers posted in this post suggesting a failing RR (that would have saved me 1/2 the value of the bike, so well worth exploring)
Got the bike back in the garage - the mob wanted another $50-100 to put back what they taken apart (what turned out to be two covers (4-5 bolts) = thats it !!! - Thieves and not impressed by this mob
Once I got the bike home I did all the diagnostics and the stator turned out to be 100% ok (fair enough it might fail down the track being a 19 year old bike, but nothing wrong with it now)
The RR turned out to be faulty and initially I sourced a cheap china knockoff.
Received it and it works. But then someone pointed out this ebay (oz) deal where I could get a SH775 coming off a Harley XG500 with only some 3K against it for $50.
After a bit of investigation I finally decided to buy into this deal - received it and straight away wanted to check the resistance between stator posts (dont want to go into how now, but trust you know how to do that)
The RR show open line (OL) across all posts and according to the general census that suggests a bad diods on a RR, so I ended up discussing the purchase with the seller expressing a level of disappointment with receiving a faulty RR after several confirmations back stating its 100% working.
At the end of the day, I decided to give these guys the benefit of a doubt and seeked a second opinion from Jack (http://www.roadstercycle.com) explaining the whole issue - Asked if theres any(!) exception to the rule when it comes to measuring & determining if a RR is good or not.
To my big surprise this and one other Shindengen RR' indeed is an exception to the rule where you simply cant check the resistance with a voltmeter on the SH775 and SH847 series RR's.
Only way to really check them is to hook them up and measure the voltage going back to the battery while the engine is running alternatively have a mechanical test bed setup.
... And fair enough, once connecting the SH775 RR to the bike it fed approx 14.5v back to the battery.

A few lessons learnt by this (at least @ my end)

But very happy I dont have to rely on the cheap knockoff and that I got a good RR cheap - But mostly happy I didnt have to replace the stator (for now at least)

The shop assessing this is no longer a place I would recommend to anyone - they shown the incompetence (along with loosing three bolts returning the bike with two side covers dismantled, yet asked for $50 diagnosing the fault *+plus the 50-100 putting the covers back (which I refused - hence taking the bike home with covers off)

Anyone in the Western Australia Rockingham area interested in who this mob is, pm me and I will pass on who they are (apparently I cant hang them out here by name ) = Bottom line, dont take someones word for what they say without properly inform yourself on the issue - I just saved $1000 on doing just that!

Thanks for all the input & advice on this - Bike charges, and soon will be back on the road once I modded the harness for this non stock RR