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Project 79 Suzuki GT250 X7 Customised

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Mitch, Mar 3, 2016.

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  1. Mitch

    Mitch Active Member

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    Thanks mate! Can't way to lay a decent line of smoke or two down some busy roads and let those cafe racer snobs suck up some good old 2 stroke fumes with their coffees!
     
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    Mitch, Aug 24, 2016
    #21
  2. Jo Verhelst

    Jo Verhelst Forty2 Contributing Member

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    2stroke.jpg
     
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    Jo Verhelst, Aug 27, 2016
    #22
  3. Mitch

    Mitch Active Member

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    Ok well an update, got my custom electrics tray sorted and mounted the flasher relay, capacitor (flux I wish) and CDI in here among the bird nest of wires that had to be hidden somewhere. I had to chop and shorten the wiring harness and it is almost completely new.

    All LED lights are working, ebay gauge is working great (bargain). I bought a Hyosung GT250 hub digital speed sensor and it fits up perfect and plugged straight into the ebay gauge, just had to use a bronze bushing through the centre as the hyosung axle is larger. The custom made oil tank is mounted to the electrics box.

    Just took her for a ride and she flys considering the jets are a bit off. Although I believe there is way more potential to be unleashed as everyone says these are wheelie machines and the front wheel wants to constantly lift, I didn't feel this at all, maybe the slipping clutch. Sometimes when you change up gears and hit the throttle it feels like the gear didn't change or the clutch is slipping. May need a new clutch pack.

    Was hoping to go for a roadworthy early this week but the rear indicators vibrated apart and I lost the diffuser/plastic and outer metal rings. Have complained to the store I purchased from and wait to hear from them.

    Here is a short video of my wife filming from her Honda PCX150



    and a bunch of pics

    20161016_143801 (Medium).jpg

    20161016_120823 (Medium).jpg

    20161016_143610 (Medium).jpg indicators vibrated apart :(

    20161016_120829 (Medium).jpg
    brushed finish on the electrics box by hand with sandpaper

    IMG-20161016-WA0000 (Medium).jpeg
    birds nest!



    Just the fuel tank to paint (colour undecided) thinking metallic grey of some sort, some repairs to the spannies/headers and bob/chop the front guard and paint same as tank or rechrome (undecided)

    Cheers
     

    Attached Files:

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    Mitch, Oct 16, 2016
    #23
  4. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    That sound awesome, congrats
     
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    kiffsta, Oct 16, 2016
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  5. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Just read that whole thread, great job well done
     
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    sharky, Oct 16, 2016
    #25
  6. Mitch

    Mitch Active Member

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    Cheers lads. Now to get to jetting right so the front wheel lifts!
     
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    Mitch, Oct 16, 2016
    #26
  7. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Do you know if the carbs are CV type? Experiment with somehow lengthening the distance from carb throat to pod filter (using pvc piping sealed with urethane etc) as this tends to create more torque. Though I dont know how it will go being a stinkwheel and all. But the fzr's are gutless without the exup and correct airbox.
     
    Linkin, Oct 16, 2016
    #27
  8. Mitch

    Mitch Active Member

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    Well I know for a fact these particular bikes are alot easier to jet and run better with the airbox but I bought this heap of junk 9 years ago and it had pods already. An original airbox is $350 plus so I will persist with pods as I prefer the look too. But maybe your advice is worth a shot, I have no idea about jetting. I'd imagine the idle is too rich as she splutters and is gutless and very low rpm and likes to die when you are coming to a stop and engine braking (no throttle) or clutch engaged (no throttle) and usually when this happens if I pull the plugs they are completely black and fouled. Although on the mid and top she seems to rip.

    The pilot jet is stock size so odd to think it's too rich with the pods pulling in more air, I'd imagine it would have been too lean if anything

    Cheers
     
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    Mitch, Oct 16, 2016
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  9. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Have you checked for worn emulsion tube's and needle's ?
    Choke is turning off properly ?
     
    my67xr, Oct 16, 2016
    #29
  10. Mitch

    Mitch Active Member

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    Needles are new, emulsion tubes are original and possibly worn??

    There is a definite difference between when choke lever is on and off so I imagine it is turning off properly. The bike also revs up to like 4k when starting while cold and tapers down to just below 2k, if I lower the idle rpm via the idle thumb screw it dies obviously due to the richness on idle and plugs fouling up
     
    Mitch, Oct 16, 2016
    #30
  11. Mitch

    Mitch Active Member

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    Just found this on some site,

    We carefully check needle jet condition on the vehicles when we create and install carb recalibration kits.
    If you install a kit and it is much too rich at low rpm, and lowering the fuel level 1mm doesn't fix it, check theneedle jets for any wear - it's not uncommon.

    I have my needle set on the highest clip setting ie. the leanest so this is most likely my problem!! Worn emulsion tube which I assume is the same as the needle jet?

    Cheers
     
    Mitch, Oct 16, 2016
    #31
  12. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    The needle jet is the tube and the jet needle is the needle. The emulsion tubes oval out but the needles can also become worn due to vibrations
     
    Linkin, Oct 16, 2016
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  13. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Have you tried leaning out the idle mixture screws? How is the float height?
     
    Murdo, Oct 17, 2016
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  14. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yep i agree with @Murdo ,
    sound's like the mixture screw's are set too rich, and you have the idle speed screw's turned in to compensate (which in turn is raising the needle and making it hard to tune)

    First thing to do is change the needle clip's back to the middle notch on the needle,
    the clip position really only affect's the mid to high rpm's

    I normally set the mixture screw's to 2 turn's out, then start the bike.
    Adjust the idle speed up a little more than normal and adjust the mixture screw's till you get the highest/smoothest idle.
    After each 1/8 turn on the mixture screw let the engine rev's settle for 10 second's or so before adjusting it again.
    Once you have it idling at the highest smoothest rpm's, then adjust the idle speed screw's back out till the idle speed drop's back to normal.
    Then try it out, give it a couple of blip rev's to check it's responsive, then take it for a ride.
    If the mixture screw's need adjusting from there it will only need to be moved a tiny bit then try it out again.
     
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    Last edited: Oct 17, 2016
    my67xr, Oct 17, 2016
    #34
  15. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Pod filters are not a problem on these carburettors. Two strokes use normal carbs not CV's and the mixture screw is an air screw not a fuel screw. Carb slides must be syncronised and air screws are usually fine at 'n' turns out as per manual. I strongly advise not to set anything lean on a two stroke (your needle position) as you can seize the engine very quickly. Find someone who is a two stroke buff to help you is the simplest way. What seems like terrible running is usually just a few simple adjustments.
     
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    maelstrom, Oct 17, 2016
    #35
  16. Mitch

    Mitch Active Member

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    Project back on after a few year break. Have been paying the rego the whole time so figured I should get it finished.
    Update: Have got the running and jetting dialed, it idles perfectly and doesn't hesitate from anywhere in the rev range and managing a perfect tan spark plug. 2nd Set of foam pods had disintegrated, so have just ordered some DNA pod filters with a supposed life time warranty.,

    Will be dropping the micron expansion chambers to a local motorcycle exhaust wizard, his suggestion was to cut the original cans off and he will install some new ones, braze the pin holes in the headers, pop out any dents and ceramic coat the whole pipes.

    Tank off for some light filling and a respray (colour undecided), thinking a pearl or metallic grey seen on some Audi's.
    Need to either source a new front fender or chop the front one down from 12noon to 3 oclock as per the design rules.
     
    Mitch, May 16, 2020
    #36
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