It's perhaps a little inconsistent. I noticed it turning left. In low gears. Slow. Hard to hear with engine noise and helmet and wind sometimes. Going for test ride tmrw morning to concentrate on it and take note. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Definitely no knocking at stand still. Not so much inconsistent as I thought. When the bike is at an angle; round roundabouts and corners. Seems always when I've slowed down for a turn and then am accelerating out from the turn. Knock knock. Low gears. High speeds I can't detect anything. Chain is too loose. About 2 inches play. Will get some help with it tomorrow. Hopefully. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Get it up to the right tension & do the exact same trip & see if the noise has gone. My guess is that the chain is stretched & has lateral slop & is running against something when in a turn. When you are setting the chain tension turn the wheel moving the chain along at 100mm intervals & feel it until you find the tightest part, set the tension there. You'll get an idea how worn / stretched the chain is by the difference in between the slackest & tightest parts of the chain. If you do replace the chain, replace the sprockets as well, worn sprockets will ruin a new chain pretty quickly.
It's definately your chain slack. Look and feel above and beside the entry line of the chain for the front sprocket case. That is where it's knocking from Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
I'll just want to reinforce in detail that it is one inch TOTAL slack and play.. NOT a one inch droop either side of the lateral centre of play creating 2 inches total slack. Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
Took the bike to the shop Well...... chain was very dry. . So I've learnt something today. He did tighten it and lubed it and I took it for a spin. He didn't think I'd notice a difference but I noticed a huge difference. The knocking is completely gone Felt so confident that I've just ridden up to Canberra with the dog. Very smooth. Plan is to get the front sprocket looked at..... And keep an eye and ear out. And spray the chain every 300-500kms Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
so after my chain stopped rattling i couldn't resist but take my bike instead of the car for the trip to canberra and then wollongong and then back down the coast i already had planned. to canberra no worries and from canberra to robertson in the southern highlands i got 210kms out of the tank before switching to reserve. couldn't believe it, not sure what made the most difference to mileage, possibly air filter made a big difference? cruising at 100kms/hour consistently up the hume.. side note: i have now run out of petrol twice in the last couple of weeks (well had to stop and switch to reserve) as i've wanted to see how far she will go and also as the orange indicator light is working but the red indicator light has not worked since i've had the bike... anyway both times after switching i've had to push start the bike.... wondering why that is and if there's a different work around.. its been ok so far as there's beeen a hill.. anyway after leaving wollongong and heading back down the coast i was riding up a hill (before a sharp righthand bend!) into Berry, i had heavy traffic in front of me and behind me, i changed down into third gear and suddenly saw the needle jumping around the tacho... and i know from experience that indicates a problem with the battery (but the battery is a month or two old and has never had any problems) and then the engine coughs and splutters and i'm losing power and i pull off to the side of the road and as i'm just off the road and try to straighten up the handlebars i lose control of the bike.. .well i can't move the handlebars back straight.. and i'm on gravel and i nearly drop it and its ugly. i take a breath and thank god i'm ok and the bike is ok and after a minute i try to start the bike again and its totally dead. not a sound. thankfully i'm travelling this leg with my boyfriend and he comes back and at first we can't work out what is preventing the handlebars from turning back straight. he has a look around and the top right fork seal securing nut has worked itself soo loose that it has come into contact with the coolant overflow and prevented the handlebars turning straight. i screw it back in with my fingers. again, we're on a hill and push start the bike and head into Berry to find a spanner... complete the rest of the journey with no battery issues, all be it in a torrential downpour we didn't expect.. but i've ridden the bike every day since then and there are absolutely no issues with the battery.. so i'm wondering what could explain this.. divine intervention.. ?
Divine intervention ??? could be or perhaps it simply wasn't your turn to crash !! Which ever way you look at it....you were very LUCKY and we are pleased about that
I think there is important message here that motorcycles vibrate and bolts can come undone. You should use locktite on the important parts like brake calipers, forks, rear sets etc and torque them to the correct settings. Im glad you are okay Sarah
Good to know you are ok. Did the loose bolt come into contact with some wiring? Could it have caused a short?
^^^ this seems likely. As for the needing to push start when hitting reserve. How long do you crank it over? As if the carbs run out if fuel. The fuel pump will meed to prime them again.
Ok thanks. Three/ four timeS. The fuel pump should prime? I dunno kind of felt like if I kept going I was flooding. Curious. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When reaching reserve level while riding it should just stutter so then when u turn the tap to res it should carry on without stopping. Does the Across just have a standard on ,res, off fuel tap?
Oh well if there is a next time I will try switching it before stopping. Yes, I think it's standard ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is likely wat it looks like inside the tank ..... its wat gives u the 'reserve' part ..... it may be blocked if its not starting after the level hits the lower filter so to speak