1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Help Aqua Blasting

Discussion in 'The Pub' started by kiffsta, Aug 10, 2016.

  1. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

    Messages:
    9,066
    Likes Received:
    6,872
    Trophy Points:
    1,168
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2010
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Brisbane
    some after shots

    IMG_8959.JPG IMG_8960.JPG IMG_8961.JPG IMG_8962.JPG IMG_8963.JPG IMG_8964.JPG IMG_8965.JPG IMG_8966.JPG IMG_8967.JPG
     
    • Like Like x 3
  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    4,313
    Likes Received:
    2,383
    Trophy Points:
    898
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's , 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G, 1976 IT400C 510
    You've got to be happy with that, the part's will look like new again.
    What sort of pressure was it run at ?

    You'll need to run it without water if you want to paint any part's after blasting them though, dry grit is the best prep for etch primer then paint.
     
  3. James P

    James P Active Member

    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    64
    Trophy Points:
    188
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2017
    Location:
    Sydney, NSW
    For some time (perhaps the last 10 years or so?) I have used Wayne Jacobson of Specialised Blasting Services (http://www.wetblasting.net/) for aluminium castings where I want a bare finish. As far as I understand his process, it is a very gentle wet bead blasting, followed by burnishing with bearing balls, which assists with "sealing" the surface of the aluminium (to retard oxidation) and leaves a semi-lustrous finish - oil and grease can be wiped straight off without staining. If you look after the finish, it will last a long time (perhaps even indefinitely) - the first parts which Wayne did for me are still in good condition. However, if you just leave the freshly finished parts outside in all weathers without attention, they will begin oxidising soon enough.

    Here are some photos of my KR-1 engine casings and related bits a few years ago:

    Before (they were pretty good to start with, but a little oxidised in places)
    [​IMG]

    After
    [​IMG]

    During building
    [​IMG]

    Wayne's blasting process is so gentle that it takes ages to remove paint. It will therefore be cheaper if you send him parts which have already had the paint removed. His process also won't work if parts are covered in greasy deposits (although I think dry dirt is not such a problem).
    A lot of parts on my SDR200 (which I am currently rebuilding) were clear-coated from the factory. I removed this coating using paint stripper, sent the parts to Wayne and was very pleased with the result when they came back, as usual.

    Prior to discovering Wayne's service, I just had parts dry bead blasted, then sprayed clear lacquer over them. I still do this for some parts, but much prefer the finish that Wayne achieves.

    I am certainly no expert, but beware that all wet blasting processes are not the same. Some use beads and some just use "vapour". Some of the processes don't "seal" the surface of the aluminium, so the nice clean finish will quickly be affected by oil, grease, dirty finger marks and oxidation.

    I'd be glad to know what knowledge and experience others may have of any of the various wet blasting processes.

    Regards,
    James
     
    • Like Like x 4
  4. Tim_

    Tim_ resident nutcase Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

    Messages:
    1,337
    Likes Received:
    662
    Trophy Points:
    543
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    In your bike shed
    My Bike:
    Modified 1990 Honda MC22 CBR 250RR
    I honestly can not wait to see this thing in action, I love metal polishers and parts cleaners because of the finish
     

Share This Page