Project beefsalads MC22 rebuild

I just about lost my f'ing mind! Came inside to take a leak and didn't close the garage. Went back out to look at that bearing and the upper case half is GONE! I swear I left it sitting upright on 2x4s right at the front of the garage. Couldn't process why anyone would steal a case half for a motor that they couldn't identify that was obviously broken. Forgot I tossed it in the freezer to try some temperature differential to get that damn coolant pipe to bust free. I'm going to have a drink after this, my anxiety was off the freaking charts!

 

Frustration shall ensue I'm certain!

Got the lower half completely stripped, sans bearing shells this evening.

 

Suddenly have the urge to rip the ultrasonic transducer out of my cleaner and attach it directly to that water-pipe. What little I know says the transducer needs to be matched to the load, so it would be in hopes that the o-ring would keep the 'load' closer to the transducers impedance. Even if they aren't matched, 20khz is a lot faster than I can rock the coolant pipe.

 

current status: front coolant pipe still stuck. Daily application of penetrating oil and trying to move it, nothing. At least wiping off the oil is taking some of the gunk off of the case half, not that it won't get a thorough cleaning later anyway.

Found the home for that 16x4mm pin. Belongs in the oil pump

Still trying to decide if I want to hit the parts store for plastigage. Currently -2c with wet streets. High for tomorrow is -2c, low is -14c so tomorrow likely isn't a much better prospect even though chances of precipitation are lower. This place isn't equipped for this kind of ****, nor do the locals have any idea how to drive in it. We're lucky enough that the city was able to treat the highways, and the state was able to treat the interstates but everything is freezing up still. Tuned into the police/emergency scanner for a while earlier and multi-vehicle collisions all over the place. I'm slightly less than a mile from the parts place, maybe I'll hoof it and hope they are open when I get there.

 

Another spectacular freaking update. Hit the parts house for plastigage and duster. Want to knock out this part of the project while it's too damn cold to ride. Anyyyyyway. Hit the case half with a heat gun, then inverted an air duster and shoved the duster pipe into the coolant pipe and flooded it so it cooled off. No luck! Couldn't twist it, couldn't pull it. Even tried 3' of leverage (wood backing it up so as to not touch the case), no freaking dice. I was tempted to destroy it, but I wanted to see if I could pull of the same part from my old motor that I overheated. Pulled the bolt out, twisted it...**** IT TWISTED EASY WTF IS WRONG WITH THE OTHER ONE? Took a closer look, looks like previous owner tried to remove it by hammering a flat head screwdriver under the coolant pipe, so now it's basically wedged in by a piece of the case.

Here's hoping I can get the coolant pipe out of the engine I overheated. If I can I'll cut the old one out of this engine and grind out the "wedge." So much for possibly rebuilding both motors! I'll have to hit up my new favorite parts guy to see if those bastard bits are available.

 

Took less than 30 seconds to remove the coolant pipe from the other motor. Destruction of the stuck pipe has already begun, but I'm at the point now where I have to slow down before I cause more damage. I see hours of dremel in my near future

 

Now that the t-section has been removed (slide hammer opened that bitch after a few solid thwacks). it looks a lot like the pipe is crooked. I can see the lip under it for about 1/2 of the pipe. I've tried to encourage it to recenter, but no luck. Maybe Millennium Tech will do me a favor and mill it out after they weld up that case half.

 

Going to have the front pipe from the overheated engine replated. If I deem the overheated engine is worth rebuilding (not getting my hopes up) I will have the good one I do have duplicated by a machine shop. It won't be a 1:1 duplication, but it will be functional. Times like this I wish I had my own metal working shop to mess around in. Power/internet/water here has been **** for the last week thanks to winter storms so I would have had plenty of time in the garage. Then again something tells me losing power mid milling operation isn't a fun thing to deal with either.

 

The climate is one of the reasons I moved here. I've been through worse weather but in places much better equipped for it.

 

Finally found a roundtuit. Checked main bearing oil clearance. .038mm per plastigage, 0 discernible taper. I'm not sure which direction to go with checking the pistons though. P.O. didn't bother to label which piston came from which hole. Bearing codes are all the same size so I think I could check the oil clearance anywhere on the crank. Maybe I'll check them all in one position, then move them to the next position to see if anything changes. Then again if they all measure they same on the first check I wouldn't expect them to change one position over. Maybe when I have the bores/pistons measured it will give me greater insight as to what went where. I tried using a forensic method of comparing scratches/wear patterns, but the best I could do from that was the correct orientation of the piston. Pretty much worthless since I can tell that from the tops anyway.

 

Paying a machinist for less than the cost of both. May regret it some day but for now those are not tools I want to spend money on (unless micrometers have increased their range)

 

Have had a considerable amount of time to contemplate how to proceed. Might have more fuel for the decision now?

Just got done tearing down the 96 motor. Some of the big end bearings are showing issues. CMSNL shows only 1 conrod and 1 crank bearing as no longer available and I don't believe I need either size that is NLA. Cases themselves are in much better condition (i.e. upper case half doesn't have an 8 square inch chunk broken out) Haven't checked clearances anywhere on the big end. Hoping the global knowledge base here will point me in the right direction.

Option 1: rebuild 96, bolt on pre-94 bits for +5HP. Needs at least 1 hole re-sleeved (not cheap)
Option 2: fix/rebuild pre-94. Must have case half welded up. Less expensive than a re-sleeve but if I'm going this far I want to throw as many fresh wear parts as I can at it. Already have pistons/rings on hand.

If you click through to the gallery to view the bearings my fingers are there to note which hole we're looking at, not pointing out any issues. I believe what I see in person clearly comes out in photos. One of the bearings looks like it has a piece of slag on it in the photos, I was able to pick that off with a fingernail. Probably just some trash that got picked up when moving the crank from one half to the other.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aAUWazLvYgxCW7Mx6

Haven't speced out gear lash on either, only know clearances on crank bearings on the pre-94. Can plasti-gage * if I'm convinced it's worth taking the time.

 

Where the hell did this guy find oversized pistons? 13326-ky1-0.75? I know I don't have an mc19 but if the mc19 has oversized available why can I not find them for the mc22? (not interested in chinese clones, I am aware of them)