New sprocket carrier bearing, 2 seals and circlip ordered from my local kwakka dealer. About $60 all up. Actually cheaper and faster than ordering overseas.
Hows the cush drive rubber play? My bike felt a lot more responsive when I replaced mine with a new one, around 50$ from Kwaka.
Probably could use a new one. I cleaned and regreased it when I did the rear tyre / chain / sprockets. The rear pads are finally making full contact with the disc, but I am getting awful shuddering and squeal from at slow speed with very light brake applications. Will take a look at it when I fit the new sprocket carrier bearing.
More electrical gremlins... battery is cactus again... mind you it was flattened after I got it and it stayed that way for a good week or so. Stalled the bike in the rain yesterday coming home from the chiropractor, on an uphill road of course, with traffic beeping me to move my arse... maybe they should try pushing a 141kg bike uphill when you weigh ~57kg and have no muscles to speak of! Anyway I can get about two starts out of the bike before she's flat again, the battery just ain't holding any juice... dropping down to 10 volts just with the ignition on... charging system is all good, too. High beam light is randomly coming on and staying on with high beams not in use... using the switch on/off has no effect on the high beam light, but the passing switch does if I cycle it quickly... then it comes on again. I really hate electrical issues...
try pulling lh side switch block apart and spraying electrical contact cleaner in it and dielectric grease on moving parts.
@Linkin you didnt charge the battery before you fitted it did you, it's easy to cook them if you use a charger bigger than 1 amp, or leave the charger on too long (more than 2 hours) My new SSB drycell was fully charged when i bought it, i just fitted it and took it out for a half hour ride.
It's a wet cell lead acid jobby I filled with acid, left to sit and checked before charging it up and fitting. The problem is it was drained to about 11.5v after installing it and sat that way for a week, so it was never going to live long after that.
Cleaned the battery terminals again yesterday, helped a little but not much... New battery time + relocate reg/rec and shorten all the wiring. Today I swapped switchblocks with the spare I had, no more high beams coming on at their own will. Inox on all the connectors.
Fitted new SSB lithium battery - wow is it light. 700 grams. Old lead acid job was sad, low acid level in general and one on the end was only half full. Charge rate still not great, ranging from 12.8v at idle to 13.X volts at any given RPM. However I have noticed improvements in light output of the headlight, the instrument backlights/neutral light etc no longer dim when the indicators or brake light are on. The horn is giving me issues... it works sometimes, then it doesn't. Sometimes when you use it, and it works, the bike will stall if the revs are low (below 2,000). Made worse if high beam/brake light/indicators are all on as well. It's been raining a far bit over the last 2 weeks here and my poor bike is filthy, along with the brand new chain/sprockets, which I already cleaned once and then promptly got rained on again. Oh, I bought the battery from 'Batteries Direct' - could not ask for better prices or service. Ordered last night, rang me this morning and it arrived about 3pm today (work address). $155 posted for the lithium unit, vs $180ish on ebay or $200+ from the ripoff mobs. Need another oil/filter change and chase down remaining oil leaks - looking like the oil line from head to sump at the moment. Could also be the rocker cover again as it was damaged in a stack. Plan of attack for saturday... oil/filter (more Delo 400), chain scrub, sort the charging system wiring for the last time, and find the fault with the horn.
You could try tuning the horn, there will be a small phillip's head screw that you turn in or out to adjust the tone, it also affect's how many amp's it draw's, and check the earth for the horn too.
A 12v lithium LiFePO4 battery fully charged to 100% will hold voltage around 13.3-13.4v. Use an ammeter and you will know at what rpm the charge is positive, how many amps your bike is drawing and all sorts of useful stuff. I have a very, very low opinion of using a voltmeter for checking charge rates so I had to censor my first three attempts at writing this.
Ordered a new clutch basket. Will be interesting to see what the old one looks like when I replace it. EDIT: Tax refund came in, so I bought all the things. Stay tuned...
ooo how much was the clutch basket? pretty sure mine is buggered , thought it was the timing chain but the noise goes away when i pull the clutch out
Yeah, it's pricey, but I needed to do it as the clutch is getting worse and this bike is my daily. And afterwards I still have the old basket to repair Just took stock of all the parts I ordered New rings (chinese, standard 49mm. $17.99, if they're wrong, get another set!), wrist pins, circlips. Top end gaskets and o-rings under the barrels to seal the oil/water systems (had a split one on a FZR250 and do not want a repeat experience) Manual cam chain tensioner Clutch basket and detent/return springs + gasket New exhaust from xcite bikes, the chinese yoshimura is a bit dinged and sad All the dash bulbs Plan is to do the clutch first and see if I can remove the head & barrels without dropping the motor out, like you can on the FZR250's. Thinking about head work / porting if there are any delays in re-assembly I will probably go for a set of keyster carb kits as well and go crazy replacing all the brass bits I really wanted to splash out for the Coerce rearsets and NHK steering damper, but like everyone else I do have bills (and fines, and loans, and other crap) to pay for. Maybe next year...