Project Bought a ZXR250C.

You're correct... here's the diagram for all



Strange... usually the whole point of the sidestand switch is to prevent the bike being able to start or keep running when in gear and if the stand is put down.

 

Yeah it doesn't make sense does it?

 

In other news I found some missing pictures.

Cam cover during service, no gouges from the cam chain



One clagged up tensioner...



And the results of a few "parade" laps at the barry sheene

 

OK, did a carb sync at work today. 1&2 were perfect and required no adjustment. 3&4 were waaaay out if sync. Immediately after getting them close the idle rose up to about 6,000 which just goes to show how bad they were. Syncing the left right banks using 2&3 was a challenge as pilot screw adjuster tool was fouling against the bracket for the choke cable and pushing the butterflies open. After some fiddling I managed to get a good angle on the sync screw and only had to make a minor adjustment. Happy days!

Since I had the airbox off I got some brake cleaner and checked for air leaks... a noteable rise in idle speed when spraying #1 and #4 carby boots... sure enough they have cracked where the vacuum ports are. Some new carb boots or sikaflex on the old ones will sort it out. I decided to leave the throttle cables for when the carb boots get done.

I also need a new rubber valve stem in the rear wheel as it drops down to about 24 psi and stays there... a spray with soapy water revealed the problem.

 

Last time I looked on ebay the genuine articles were available from the UK. Ebay seller was wwwisicarcom. That's where I got my airbox gasket from.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KAWASAKI-...1306-16065-1202-HOLA-CARBURATOR-/191934240244

Looks like there are 2 sets left.

 

Forgot to mention that the clamp for the splined section of the selector shaft was not tightened properly... That was fixed yesterday along with the external linkages being cleaned and regreased. Shifts are more positive now, it felt a bit sloppy before hand.

Just got back from a ride through the national park and WOW, what a difference syncing the carbs has made. Huge improvement in throttle response, smoothness and power. It starts easier and is using less fuel than before. Best it's ever run!

 

New levers







Got some of these too:

 

Big stack of parts ready and waiting to go on... just got to find the time.

Carby boots
Tyre valves
New vacuum hose (5 metres may have been a bit too much to order!)
New throttle cables
Reg/rec plus wiring

 

Goodbye, ugly yellow number plate

 

Pulled my finger out today, went to supercheap and bought a long screwdriver so I could get at the carby boots to replace them. When I was doing a carb sync at work on a Saturday, spraying brake cleaner at the boots resulted in an increase in revs, particularly on #1 cylinder.

This was the culprit:



The oring seal on the old ones were also squished flat, where the new ones protuded out a bit. Here are the new boots installed:



Here's a pro-tip from me that will save you hours in time and frustration... if your boot clamps are bent, THROW THEM OUT AND REPLACE THEM!!! I had two that I had to bend back, and no matter what I did, when pushing the carbs into the boots, the clamps would unseat themselves from their proper position and get stuck lower down than they were supposed to be. Doing them up like this could damage the boots and won't provide a proper seal.

So after what felt like hours f$%^ing around with the clamps, I FINALLY got the carbs in and the clamps in there proper positions. All done up right!!

Additionally, I encountered an issue with the new aftermarket throttle cables - the metal shrounds on the carby end are longer than the OEM ones, resulting in them fouling against the ignition leads. I had to carefully bend the bracket that holds the throttle cables into position to get enough clearance for a proper installation.

I needed a new set of cables because the plastic stop on the pull cable that opens the butterflies had broken, meaning the end of the cable sheath was not securely held. This resulted in a throttle that cannot be adjusted properly, and would sometimes slip when the sheath would find its proper position. Potentially dangerous and highly annoying, so it got fixed.

The silicon turbo line I have is too small on the ID to fit, I will have to get some 4mm ID stuff. For now I trimmed back the ends of the remaining original vacuum lines on all the plastic T pieces. This, along with the new boots, appears to have fixed all my air leaks finally.

Bike needs another carby sync now, and maybe some pilot circuit tuning as I cannot hold 3,000rpm when creeping the throttle open. It hangs up at around 2,000 and jumps up to 4,000. It doesn't do this when the revs decrease, so it may just be the carbs out of balance. Guess I'll find out soon.