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Project Bought a ZXR250C.

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Linkin, Jan 30, 2017.

  1. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I cant imagine it would be making any more power than the original TCI was to be dropping the rev's at a certain speed,
    the rev's at all speed's should be the same as with the oem TCI
     
  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    I'm only taking about 100 rpm or so at the most. It might be nothing, but its just an observation I made. Could even be confirmation bias, you want it to be better therefore it is.

    The proof of whether there is any difference or not will be in the dyno runs.
     
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  3. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    You can really only make direct comparisons on dyno runs if you do the runs on the same day... so everything (as much as possible) is identical. Make 1 run with the old unit.... then the next run with the new unit.. depending on the Dyno you can get all the spark advance info etc for comparison..
     
  4. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    That's exactly the plan. Dyno in tamworth, 3 runs in a row for not very much money. TCI unit is in the left hand tail fairing. Takes a minute to change out
     
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  5. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    That will be a really interesting series of runs...I remember when I was looking to see what I had from my flash tuned Scirocco R... we dyno’d it with the standard VW R tune (188kw at the flywheel) and had 140kw at the front wheels... we then flashed it with a Tune imported from the UK with the flash tuner... took it for a run around the street and it was an absolute animal... put it back on the Dyno and it made 165 at the wheels... the supplier said it should be at and said the Dyno must be out....lol
    I then had a different (we’ll known) tune installed by the Dyno operator and we saw 205kw at the front wheels.... an amazing difference and much more tractable on the road...butt Dyno would have sworn the 165 made MOREE power but the figures proved otherwise...
     
  6. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The new TCI may have more advance or something, so change's the torque curve maybe?
    Will definately be interesting to see the dyno result's.

    I have advanced my ignition timing 5 degree's on the FZR by slotting the bolt hole's on the pick up coil and moved it about 4mm to advance it, total advance is now about 38 degree's
    Feel's like it's got more down low, no pinging etc and hasn't lost anything in the top end either with my seat of the pant's dyno
     
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  7. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Here's the aliexpress listing for the unit: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Motorcycle-ignition-CDI-ZXR250-for-KAWASAKI/538672544.html

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mot...model-for-Kawasaki-LXD-ZXR250C/538863640.html

    This is what they have to say about it, it varies across which listing you look at.

    1. The series of digital CDI, breaking the analog control of the traditional method, adopts the imported high-speed microcomputer chip. The spark is so strong to start easily under the low speed. The accurate ignition timing is able to follow the motor speed changing. All of these make the motorcycle save more oil, start quickly, more powerful, more durable. We can see it more obviously when it is up hilling and loading.

    2. Upon our professional electronic engineers' carefully designing, a new type of CDI has come out. The starting speed is faster than the original design. The ignition angle is precise at the medium and hign speed, which improves the engine's power and saves more fuel. This kind of CDI applies to the improved racing motorcycle and high-speed pursuer.


    Technology

    1.Adopt the imported high-speed microcomputer chip

    2.controled by single chip precision

    Features

    1.Spark energy intensity

    2.Easy start under the low speed

    3.Smooth acceleration

    4.No horsepower limit

    5.Meet the demand of different speeds to the engine power

    Advantage

    1.Save more oil

    2.Start quickly

    3.Improve the engine's power

    4.More durable

    Other characteristics

    1.Ignition time accurate to 0.1 “

    2.The same shell and plug as the original car




    The unit definitely weighs less than the original. I think @Murdo has one in his MC19?
     
  8. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Good to know it is better when you are uphilling. Plus you save more oil


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
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  9. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    I didn't notice any better 'uphilling' or 'saving any oil', but did drop my times at the dragstrip by about .5 sec ( I did this on same day with no other changes). Don't think it starts any better 'under the low speed' but did feel to pull a bit better. Still waiting for the 'no horsepower limit' to arrive. :lolsign:
     
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  10. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I reckon that descripton of the Lixianda TCI is basically describing the advantage's/difference's between a TCI and a CDI.
     
  11. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    So last Saturday I re-sycned the carbs. It was hard as we only have a set of 2 sync gauges, not 4, so they constantly had to be swapped over from 1&2 to 3&4 and then 2&3. I flattened the battery that day, and had to bring the bike up into my flat to charge it, no power points down in the car park. I reckon everyone should have a bike in their living room :)

    It looks like I will have to replace the clamps on the boots at some point, and clean the exterior of the carbs properly, as I still have air leaks from the boots... just not where they join onto the cylinder head or on the vacuum line ports, but where the clamps hold the carbs on. Right now I will live with it as I'm sick of taking the tank & airbox off, it has been a mission to get it running this well.

    #4 pilot screw was having no effect on the tune. Blew some compressed air through all the orifices without taking the bowls off, and ended up with the floats stuck open and the bike flooded with gravity fed fuel.

    A work colleague who cut his teeth on these doing his apprenticeship decades ago instantly came over and showed me how to fix this without dis-assembling the carbs. The trick, if tapping on the carbs doesn't un-stick the floats, is to open the bowl drain screws and blow compressed air back up through where the fuel drains from the bowls. Bingo - floats sealing again.

    Got #4 pilot back working again. Colleague explained how he tunes the pilots... wind out the screw until the revs rise, note how many turns it is. Wind screw in until the revs drop and note how many turns. Then set them bang in the middle.

    After spending a good portion of the day doing all this, the bike runs much smoother. Before, I could not hold 3,000 RPM while stationary. It would bog and struggle, then shoot up above 4,000 and drop below 3,000 again. If you held 3,000 while moving, the bike would jerk back and forth until you increased the revs above that point. Now it's smooth as anything.

    That ever-present rattle has been decreased by a fair margin. Using the choke is more responsive, less of it is needed, and while on choke the revs do not fluctuate up and down as much (not perfect due to air leaks).

    The next job on the list is forks. I have ordered new OEM oil seals, dust seals, fork bushings and the pistons, too. They were the most expensive part. Forks will be rebuilt with the standard 5 weight oil. I will check the length of the springs as well, and consider replacing them with progressive ones if I can find any.
     
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  12. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    You must of been absent without leave when we did this at the Fizz Factory :fuckyou:
     
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  13. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Next job... forks... @GreyImport can I do another set of forks in your shed again? :fuckyou:

    tkN90Cn.jpg
     
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  14. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    No progress on the forks yet, but I have managed to track down and order all the OEM vacuum lines that I have neglected to replace them up until now. But the state of the tune and the lingering air leaks (and subsequent flat spot that keeps re-appearing) are driving me crazy... as is the burble on very partially open throttle when accelerating, and on deceleration. New clamps for the manifolds too, just in case.

    The re-sync and pilot tune improved the running and smoothness, but I have lost the one-touch-of-the-button starting since doing so. I did however find that the choke cable is adjustable, so I have removed almost all of the slop. The little lever needs some lubrication as its a bit stiff

    The gear shifter needs attention... the ball joints are sloppy and the pedal has horizontal play, it needs a shim.

    Front tyre was a bit old, my 7 month stint off the roads meant the bike got stored at work, upstairs, in a hot environment, it has dry rotted and needs to be replaced :( At least I got some use out of it... New dunlop alpha 13 on the way, not risking it with a track day coming up. Gotta love staff pricing though.

    However, I am very happy to report that the charging system is holding up fine... even with the reg/rec in the standard position, and we've had some bloody hot weather lately.
     
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  15. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Today I got stuck into the forks and rebuilt them. New bushes, seals and oil. Measured springs and they were within spec. Filled using 5w oil as the service manual said and so far so good. Helps to have a workshop full of special tools to make the job easier


    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
     
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  16. sharky

    sharky Active Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah i done 2 lots myself this weekend, theres a SPECIAL fork oil level guage in the manual,but they cost a fortune for what looks like a syringe with a measured tube that goes down into the fork to a determined depth to get the correct oil level, I just put the recommended 430ml(dry) in the fork leg, fill a measuring cup with 300ml, bleed the inner tube once then top up, bleed then top again etc until fully bled, I then syringe it back out until theres 300ml in the cup & ya got the right amount.
     
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  17. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    We have those special tubes with the syringe and round bit to lock the length in place, along with a threaded rod to screw onto the top of the damper rod to fish it out
     
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  18. kiffsta

    kiffsta Administrator Staff Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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  19. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Track day went well. Lixianda TCI works well and does have a rev limit. Carbs need air leaks fixed, balance and tune still.

    Steering head bearings are loose and need tightening.

    Cooling system needs a flush, and oil and filter change for the motor.

    Rear brakes need new caliper slide pins as they are worn and the pads are sitting in the one spot. Disc is getting there too.

    Booked in annual service at work next week so everything will get fixed.

    But most importantly, I scrubbed in the Dunlop Alpha 14's. Great sticky tyre, freshly made, and made in Japan. Highly recommended if you track or ride your ZXR hard. They were balled up a lotmore, most of it came off droning down the hume highway

    xvENXnK.jpg

    bS1xnQy.jpg
     
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  20. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Good to hear the bike went well.
    The rev limiter is most likely your valve spring's.
     

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