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Bringing an Across Back to Life

Discussion in 'Suzuki 250cc In-line 4's' started by Pygmygod, Mar 22, 2015.

  1. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Hi All,
    A friend has donated his old 1990 Across to me as it's been sitting in his mother's paddock for the past 2 years.
    It hasn't been ridden in the last 5 or so years.

    Firstly - does anyone have the workshop manual which is scanned in higher resolution?
    The links I've found to the manual have terrible pictures almost to the point where a giant blob of ink would be just as useful as the pictures in the scanned manual :(

    Secondly - REDBACK SPIDERS!!! Once we pulled the fairings off and started cleaning it up a bit to inspect what needs replacing and what needs cleaning a few redbacks decided to wander around. After pulling more parts off there were several egg-sacs of redbacks, OMG.

    The front brake was seized so I've had to disconnect the caliper otherwise it was Very Hard just to push the bike, also the rear disc is rusted and so is the chain.

    Fairings, lights, pegs, handlebars etc. all seem fine so that's a major cost component that doesn't need replacing.

    So far I've pulled the carbs off and cleaned them out, there was a bunch of green slime inside them similar to Jessica's thread. I don't know what it was but I put it down to the previous owner's brother trying to get the bike started with some "Start ya bastard" or similar product.

    2 of the pilot jets were seized inside the carb so I had to drill them out and use a screw extractor to get them out...have gone over the thread again with a tap so the new pilot jets should fit in still.

    The main jets were full of stale, gummed up fuel so I may as well replace them.

    Cleaned fuel petcock filter and will flush a bit of fuel through the tank to get any chunks out.

    Dumped the oil...black as tar! Will need to get a new oil filter, air filter and fresh oil.

    Flushed the coolant system.

    Finally got the cam cover off today, what a ***** of a job that was. The 2 coolant tubes which come out the top of the cover had a bit of rust on them so I had to sand them back a bit to get the rust off, WD40 around them, then whack the cam cover with a bit of wood and a hammer in order to get it to move, wouldn't budge by hand!

    Need to change the fork seals & fork oil (1 seal is leaking)

    Need to change the brake fluid (almost none left!) and pads and maybe rotors, depends how far the rusting has gone, will try and sand them back a bit before replacing.

    Need to grease up all the wheel & suspension bearings also.

    And needs a battery, doesn't have one.

    So that's my intro & project. Luckily I've done most of the same tasks on my partners CBR250 (1989 MC19) so the lack of pretty photos in the manual isn't too crucial having done the tasks before.

    Anything I've missed which you guys recommend? Tyres, grips, still have decent tread
     
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  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    You've missed pictures, post some up!

    Check the dates on the tyre sidewalls as well. Eg 5206 - 52nd week of 2006. Old and hard as a rock most likely.

    You will want to strip & rebuild the carbs as well
     
  3. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, will check the sidewalls for the dates.
    Jets are nearly on order, double checking pricing from local Suzuki dealer or will get the eBay jets instead.
    Rest of the card has been cleaned out and looks in decent condition.

    Finished the valve clearances and only 1 intake valve was a smidgen off, the rest were within spec, I was surprised!
     
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  4. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    I missed the editing window...:

    P1010131s.jpg


    P1010133s.jpg


    P1010135s.jpg
     
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  5. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    great score, I would flush the tank and fuel pump as its probably full of gunk, also check your brakes as the brake fluid would be mush by now. I have a big box of parts, if you need anything yell out.

    I do have some genuine fork seals if you need them, they are in the for sale board
     
  6. Moo

    Moo Plodge Racing!!!

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    cracking score mate!!!
     
  7. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Be patient and determined and you will end up with a great bike. Good luck with your project mate and keep the photo's coming.
     
  8. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Took the front caliper apart tonight to clean it up and check on the seals. Hardly any brake fluid left and what was in there had gone a brown/orange colour...

    Cleaned out the left hand switchblock as it was full of cobwebs and baby spiders...

    Adjusted the clutch as it wasn't doing much useful. The little clutch adjuster cover was bloody hard to get off. It was one of those big round side engine covers similar to you see on the CBR250R or a dirtbike when you want to turn the motor over to find T.D.C.

    Need to order some parts to see if I can get the old girl to fire up.
    • Oil filter
    • Air filter
    • Carb jets
    And buy some new spark plugs and oil on the weekend.
     
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  9. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Remembered a problem I encountered last night...when I was putting the sump plug back in it didn't feel smooth, felt like it was hitting something and not screwing in. (I didn't force it in as I was only threading by hand, no tools!)
    So I put my finger in there and felt around the threads and some metal fell out...so I kept prodding around with my finger and several threads then fell out...

    Now I'm not sure if it was from an old helicoil or whether the original threads have come out but after getting them out I was able to thread the sump plug back in without the crunchy resistance I was feeling to begin with.

    Only problem is I don't know how many threads are left in there and whether it'll create an oil-tight seal anymore.

    Any tips?

    Helicoil time? I better youtube this, never done it before...
     
  10. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Use a new crush washer and see if it tightens without too much tension

    Put oil in and see if it leaks
     
  11. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Should I try and torque it to spec or just nip it up and see if it holds oil?
     
  12. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Nip it at first and see how it goes ... then maybe a little more if it leaks
     
  13. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Totally agree with Mr. Grey, nip it and put perhaps put 500ml in and see if any leaks occur. If no=winner.... if yes it leaks try the crush washer and see what happens. It is a sad fact of life that so many over tighten the sump plug with dire consequence later on.
     
  14. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    It leaks :(
    Not a lot but enough to notice.
     
  15. risky

    risky risky

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    wrap plumbers teflontape on the thread and tighten gently. works a treat when i change oil on old cars.
     
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  16. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Just bought a thread repair kit off of eBay so I'll give that a go.
    Good to learn something new anyways.
     
  17. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Do it properly (helicoil)and you wont have to worry about it coming out on the road somewhere.
     
  18. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking the same thing Murdo. Wouldn't want it to pop out at 100km/hr and lose all the oil.

    I took the exhaust off and the sump off in preparation for the helicoil.

    In the bottom of the sump I found a lot of chunks of some kind of orangey brittle plastic.

    Anyone have any idea what it is and where it could have come from?

    P1010128 - Copy.JPG
     
  19. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    The exhaust ports are looking pretty caked up with carbon deposits.

    Any tips on cleaning them up a bit? Or don't bother unless I'm going to take the head off in order to clean them out without making a sooty mess fall into the valves and pistons?

    P1010130 - Copy.JPG
     
  20. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    I cant think of anything that's plastic down there, Im fairly certain the oil strainer is metal
     

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