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Bringing an Across Back to Life

Discussion in 'Suzuki 250cc In-line 4's' started by Pygmygod, Mar 22, 2015.

  1. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Perhaps it may be time for the "THREEBOND" treatment.
     
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  2. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Turn the engine around until the valves are closed and scrape off what you can and blow out with an air line. If any gets back into the cylinder it should blow out with the next exhausting stroke.
     
  3. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Took the rear wheel off to clean off the surface rust from the brake disk...undid 3 bolts, 4th bolt has a stripped allen head!

    I've tried grinding a straight line across the top of the bolt to whack it with a flathead screwdriver & hammer but it wouldn't budge...going to need to drill it and easy-out it I guess.
     
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  4. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Got the bolt out this evening, woot.
    The Bosch bolt extractors form Masters are good enough and only $2.95 each.

    Now to clean up the discs and regrease the wheel bearings.
     
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  5. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Watched some youtubes lastnight on soldering the fairings back together, so tonight I 'welded' the cracks and one of the sections that houses a bolt back on. Was easier than expected.
     
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  6. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Good for you mate, how solid is the end product now ???
     
  7. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Seems good, can give it a bit of flex without it snapping off.
    Need to sand it and touch up the paintwork now though. Will do that last once she's running and all back together.
     
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  8. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Degreased, cleaned up and re-greased the swingarm & linkages today.
    Going to buy a replacement bolt for the disc brake tomorrow then I can put the rear end back together and move onto replacing the fork seals and fork oil.
     
  9. Hamz

    Hamz Well-Known Member

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    Cool man, my workmate scored a GSX250f of his mate for free. His mate botched up the starter switch and couldnt get the thing to start or do anything and gave up. We spent the last 2 days fixing it up. Today we got it running, spark plugs were wet so got new ones and cranked it without the choke. Runs good but lots of smoke and soot lol. Will hopefully take it for a spin tomorrow. but need to put it back together lol. Will be watching this one ;)
     
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  10. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Jets purchased.
    Oil & air filters purchased.
    Will purchase spark plugs on the weekend.

    Sump re-tapped, put some plumbers tape around the sump plug with a new crush washer and threaded it in and it's holding the oil. Not 100% but about 99.99%. I can handle it dropping about 1 drop of oil per day.

    Once the parts arrived I can see if the old girl fires up!
     
  11. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Brake pads and fork seals purchased.
    We use fork oil weight #10?
     
  12. risky

    risky risky

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    what colour plumbers tape used? if white- a waste of time. needed is pink and if totally shot then yellow.white from bunnings is overpriced at 69 cents.
     
  13. risky

    risky risky

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    i use 10 in the honda,s so is a pretty standard weight. if you want stiffer go 15 but the ride will be harsher.
     
  14. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Pink :)

    I think it was still slowly dribbling with the newly re-threaded thread because of the fact that they are like springs, ie. not a solid piece of metal so it was allowing oil to slowly dribble past the threads of the sump plug and helicoil.
    The plumbers tape has worked well.

    Thanks, saw #10 in the manual too so will go with that.
     
  15. risky

    risky risky

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    there is another type of heli coil which i think is a t coil. when threaded in it has an inbuilt super glue that is released under pressure. dearer but more effective.when i next visit the meercedes mechanic who is a sharp dude i will ask about them.
     
  16. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Hey @kiffsta do you have a spare ignition barrel laying around I could buy?

    This one didn't turn very well so I tried to pull it apart whilst still connected to the bike...and gravity helped a few pieces out.

    I had to take the triple stem off and forks off to get the damn thing off the bike.
    Opened up the barrel and it was pretty gritty, then I also filed down some of the lock wafers which were protruding past the barrel so it wouldn't turn too well.

    Now when I've put it back together to where it may be right it but it wouldn't engage the steering lock or spring back when you turn to the 'boot release' section...it's stumped me 'cause I didn't take it apart (thanks gravity), so I can't picture how it's supposed to go back together!

    Anyone got any idea how all the ignition barrel pieces go back together?

    Here's a picture of the parts:
    P1010077.JPG

    I'm fairly sure it goes:
    1. small circle piece with protrusion
    P1010078.JPG
    2. spring
    P1010079.JPG
    3. barrel turning thing
    P1010080.JPG
    4. ring with 2 screws as seen in first picture
    5. then rectangle piece or steering lock?

    The issue is that the small circle piece which goes in first can fit in 4 different ways, the rest is fairly straight forward as it feels like it only goes in 1 way.
     
  17. biscuit

    biscuit Member

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    Don't worry about all the carbon, give it a tune and some fresh fuel, a long ride should burn all the crap out if well tuned.
     
  18. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Sorry mate, sold out of ignitions
     
  19. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    found one. PM sent
     
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  20. Pygmygod

    Pygmygod Well-Known Member

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    Thanks kiff.

    P.S: Fork seals & brake pads arrived today. Luckily the weekend weather is going to be rainy and 14'C both days so the Mrs will let me stay in the shed :)
     

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