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Chain tension

Discussion in 'Maintenance' started by bradwatts, Apr 18, 2011.

  1. bradwatts

    bradwatts Member Premium Member

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    Hi ya'll.

    I'm a little concerned about my chain (Suzuki Across).

    The chain and sprockets were new in 2006 according to the receipts/notes I have from the previous owner. The sprockets look to be still in good nick (not sharp teeth etc), but here's the thing;

    I adjust the chain so I have say, 20-25mm of slack in it - that's with me sitting on the bike.

    Yet, if I do a ride of 100-120km, the chain 'seems' to stretch and I'll have 50-60mm of slack in it. Consequently I readjust.

    The think is, I feel the chain is stretching at an alarming rate. I've got about 2 'notches' left on the chain adjustment markers on the swingarm, but at this rate I'm going to be out of adjustment room pretty quickly.

    One concern is I'm not tightening the axel nut enough, but I really couldn't get it much tighter without it feeling like I'm going to strip the thread. (I don't have a 1/2" torque ratchet - only a 1/4" drive one so I can't use that for a 22mm nut).

    Is a chain of that vintage likely to stretch more than a new chain?

    Do I just get a link removed when I run out of adjustment room?

    I'm planning a 1000km trip in the next couple of weeks and I don't want to be left on the side of the freeway with a chain that's no adjustment left, or worse, a chain that's left its sprockets.

    Any clues?
     
  2. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Brad, you've thrown up a curly one here. I have never heard of a chain stretching at that rate. Will be visiting my mechanic later on today and will seek some guidance re this issue and get back to you.    Phil
     
  3. bradwatts

    bradwatts Member Premium Member

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    OK, here's the rub.

    When I noticed my chain was flapping about with 50-60mm movement if was immediately after a 120km-ish ride. At approx 3.30pm.

    It was still like this at about 9pm that night which is when I adjusted the chain tension back to 25mm slack.

    I just checked it now - 1PM the following day (having ridden to work this morning), and the chain is as tight as a drum. I'm gonna have to adjust it now with the on-board tool kit (damn).

    I'm kinda suspecting heat/natural expansion, but you'd think that scenario would right itself after approx 5-6 hours to cool.

    Weird.
     
  4. bradwatts

    bradwatts Member Premium Member

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    I kinda find it incredible that a chain could show that much variance over such a short trip - I'm suspecting/fearing there's something else at play.
     
  5. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Brad  As promised I spoke to my mechanic re. your dilemma with the chain.
    Here is what he thinks it could possibly be and how to tell.
    Get the back off the ground, whilst turning the back wheel slowly look for high and low points. If you see tight then loose you will require a new chain.
    With age some chains develop sort of KINKS which create those high and low points.
    I know the Across does not have a center stand, get someone to help you by tilting the bike over on the side stand just enough to get the back wheel off the deck, then check your chain. Hope this helps mate        Cheers  Phil
     
  6. bradwatts

    bradwatts Member Premium Member

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    Thanks very much for that Phil. Now the question is: should one change a chain and not change sprockets at the same time?

    Also, is it an easy job on the Across? I've dome it with Hondas as a kid, but not with something more complex like the Across... (?)
     
  7. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Brad  Suppose every mechanic would tell you that a new chain goes well with new sprockets, that's a given. As for changing the sprockets over, it's pretty simple.
    Front one is very simple, remove the cover(housing on the engine) and un bolt and re bolt.
    The rear requires removal of the back wheel, pull sprocket out from cu sh drives. Place the sprocket in a vice and undo the 5 or 6 bolts, when re assembling remember to put a dab of loctite on each bolt, we don't want those baby's coming loose. Also important to let adjuster all the way out prior to fitting new chain. It certainly is easier if you have a stand so that the bike remains upright, hope that helps    Cheers  Phil
     
  8. bradwatts

    bradwatts Member Premium Member

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    Cheers Phil,

    Last night I decided to get to the bottom of it. I was going on the assumption that the chain and sprockets were relatively new aas this is what waas stated in the advertisement when I got the bike. Turns out when I checked the paperwork, only the chain had been replaced - and that was approx 13000km ago!

    So anyways, I got out the degreaser and a toothbrush and set about cleaning up the chain to get a better look. To lift the rear wheel I put my hydraulic trolly jack (a cheapy from some car place but it works) under the rear shock mount, and lifted the rear wheel adequately with the front wheel. sidestand, and trolly jack acting as my three-point stand - works quite well.

    While cleaning and turning the wheel, the chain went from tight (10mm movement) through to really loose (60mm movement). Yet the pattern seemed random. I was thinking a bent fron sprocket shaft, or worn swingarm bearings/bushes. I ruled that out as the pattern seemed random. Then I realised the 3.5:1-ish ratio of the sprockets, and sure enough, a pattern began to appear with about 3-4 turns of the wheel.

    Once I had the sprockets and chain clean it was clear that both were extremely worn. The rear sprocket had almost developed 'hooks' in the teeth. Plus I could pull the chain away from the rear of the back sprocket approx 6-8mm.

    Got a new set this morning. DID chain and stock sprockets - $160. I'd love some better sprockets but I can't be waiting on them at this point. Next chain...

    As it happens I was dropping the bike in for a carby balance today so I asled if they could to fit the chain and sprockets - if they don't I'll tackle the job myself on the weekend.

    Should I end up doing it myself, should the rear brake calliper be removed before the wheel is removed?

    Aaand, the front sprocket seems to be held with a cir-clip and nut. I assume the cir-clip can be re-used?

    With the nut - Loosen that puppy when the bike is still on the ground and the chain is attached to aid removal? Or will having the transmission in gear be enough to loosen it?

    Thanks for your help!

    B
     
  9. bradwatts

    bradwatts Member Premium Member

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    Ooooohhhh!

    New chain and sprockets, and carbies balanced.

    Awesome  :p
     
  10. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    They hum along when they are balanced, nice one brad
     
  11. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Well done Brad, sounds like it's all under control. Your upcoming journey sounds better now that these jobs are out of the way. All that is left to say is: enjoy the ride
                                                        Cheers  Phil
     
  12. bradwatts

    bradwatts Member Premium Member

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    Yep, all good.

    They certainly do hum when they're balanced Kiffsta. The difference is quite pronounced. Much smoother revving and far more predictable throughout the rev-range.

    So yeah, I think I have everything covered for my trip.

    Thanks fellas - your help has been invaluable.
     

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