So having not found a thread on this I am after some general experience from others. Have to say upfront I'm a bit scared of clutches, if you get it wrong then the bike is probably not going to be forgiving. I'm pretty confident something is going on in mine, I've adjusted the clutch cable so it's relatively manageable but I am still getting slip at high RPM (which can be problematic on a bike like this that loves to be at 12K consistently). I've looked in the manual etc and like all bolts they have a torque setting, so rather than make this FZR specific some advice I heard was that you tighten the bolts until they seat and then nip them up 1/4 turn and that's it. So question 1: how accurate would this advice be? The reason I ask is that on my old bandit I did pull the plates out to have a look and the torque was around 10nm on the bolts. Before I even got there the bolt head sheared straight off hence I am not overly trusting of the torque setting (and before you ask I do know how to use my torque wrench lol). Question 2: @Moo was kind enough to send me his wear plates that I assume are used but still within spec. I was considering changing them in to tie me over for a while. But having not being worn in on my engine, I am wondering if this could end up being more trouble than it is worth. Question 3: I have been doing a lot of research on the net and there's a lot of people saying soaking the wear plates in engine oil before installing for at least a couple of hours is a non negotiable. I can see the logic, I guess. Just interested in what others do. Peace.
You'll need a gasket for the cover, it's unlikely the old one will come off without breaking. Your pressure plates will probably be ok unless you've been slipping the clutch to buggery & have overheated them & theyre warped. Torque settings are ok on new stuff once or twice & in steel, I'd do the clutch bolts back up by hand / feel, there in alloy & can easily strip so be careful, 1/4 turn sounds dangerous, might be just too much, better off setting yopur torque wrench low & feel how it goes. You could use a bit of thread lock but both surfaces have to be clean, metho clean them so there's no oil or it's useless. Don't be scared of the clutch they are dead simple, make sure you take note of the sequence of plates as they come off & repeat it when re assembling. Nothing wrong with soaking your plates in oil first however I've never done it & never had a problem, just ride it away sensibly for a little while & you'll be ok, gives you a chance to listen & feel for problems if something else is wrong.
Clutch is not hard to do but cant see the point in using old plates .... a set of fibres isnt all that expensive Im part way thru doing a 'how to' but just havnt finished it Torque setting for the spring bolts is 6Nm and if u remove the basket the nut is 50Nm The basket fingers may need filing back or the plates will catch on them Check the steels arnt burnt like in the pic below Theres a special way to get the basket in past the engine case and the spring cover plate is marked to go back on in a certain position. Also note the spring and the skinny fibre plate and their placement in the stack And yes new fibre plates should be soaked in oil overnight .... I put my steels in oil too Good luck finding a gasket ..... I got a genuine Zeal one from the bike shop Part #s FZR 1HX-15462 Zeal 3YX-15462
i always like to just wipe a bit of oil on the plates before putting them on just for good measure in case i dont run the motor for a while afterwards, i've never soaked them myself and havent had issues, but i'm no professional and it sounds like it's probably a good idea especially if you get brand new ones just make sure you dont put them on upside down (the diagonal channels need to point in the direction it spins) or else they won't pull oil in
My advice would be to not use a massive torque wrench for engine work. It's hard to really tell how much actual force you're using (I necked a bolt on a fork leg once and since then, stopped using the big one). But if you seat them, nip them and use some thread locker then you should be alright. And IMO it's best to just replace them with new parts. Too much effort for me but you can make the choice for yourself. Depends how much wear is left. And soaking the plates in oil is a good idea. Make sure you have the order right too. The last few ones sometimes have a particular order and orientation. Nothing worse than having to undo what you just did.
Answer 1; use the torque wrench to put the correct tension on the bolts so they don't come loose. A2; used plates will soon bed in without a worry. A3; have never bothered to soak them in oil as they get soaked when you fill the gearbox, and have never had any problems. Are you replacing the springs as this may be most of your slippage problem.
Hadn't really thought too hard about it from that perspective Murdo. I've been tossing this one around a bit because I don't want to pour a lot of money into the bike unless it absolutely needs it. The slippage is there but minimal, annoying but manageable. It's inevitable it will need doing I guess. If I could get a whole kit for a couple hundred including springs and all the plates I would probably attempt it. Much more than that and I'd hold off. Any recommendations for a complete kit?
I'll shop around a bit - see what's out there. I know metalgear have a kit but I think it's only wear plates. I've been told I should take it apart to see what I need first, I got warned that sometimes you can replace the wear plates but if the metal ones are shagged it may not fix the slippage problem. Probably good advice, but annoying because once i take it apart I have to order and leave it off the road until I get the new bits. No point putting it back together and doing the gasket twice heh.
Kevlar kit SRK034 Cork kit SRC034 http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Yamaha/FZR_250_R_EXUP_3LN1_Japanese_Market/89/ http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Yamaha-F...-Clutch-Kit-/150696953915?hash=item23163d083b http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Yamaha-F...-Clutch-Kit-/150696954156?hash=item23163d092c
$164 for EBC http://www.wemoto.com.au/bikes/yamaha/fzr_250_r_exup_3ln1-n5_japanese_market/90-92/ $118 including postage for Newfren complete kit from slipstream. I may give that a whirl... unless @Grasshopper can do any better.
Mate piece of the proverbial. The only real trap for new players is don't over tighten the clutch spring bolts/screws. I did that first time round and ended up needing a new clutch basket when I snapped a bolt. 5nm on the torque wrench is more than enough. I now do all my own and it is easy. And just put them back in in the order they came out. The metal plates are metal so soaking them in oil achieves nothing. Doesn't hurt to give the fibre plates 15 mins in a clean oil bath before installing. And check that the metal plates are straight while they are out. And don't cheap arse on the cover gasket - a new one isn't cheap but if they leak its a pain. Having the workshop manual section on hand removes any doubt. And lastly don't overtighten your case screws when closing it all up either - you'll hate yourself next time you try to undo them. Have fun!!!
I've been making gaskets out of oil/fuel resistant gasket paper from bursons. Works well, have a made gasket on my sump, CCT and a couple of other places and so far no leakage... so I wouldn't call making your own gasket cheap arse, unless you're a bit absent minded and use a piece of cereal box cardboard!
Yeh it's not a catalogue item on the website, they seem to have quite a few connections if you ask though! Good for us import riders
The answer I got from slipstream was "According to the Newfren catalogue the compounds are unique to each application allowing them to select the best combination of materials to suit each bike’s characteristics and requirements." I'm not sure they knew/know either, but comparing to what I saw when I bought Kevlar brake pads (they're a greeny colour) I'd say these are a cork compound of some sort.
