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Help Clarify year of Bandit (and some tech info)

Discussion in 'Suzuki 250cc In-line 4's' started by Shitelager, Jul 25, 2016.

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  1. Shitelager

    Shitelager Member

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    New member who's just bought a basketcase 250 bandit.
    Bought as a tinkerer so I can hide in the shed, and once I've whipped the tank off it doesn't look like I'll be back in the house anytime soon...
    Relatively simple question to start. Attached is a photo of the vin plate. I understand imported bikes show the year of import (2007) and also reflects the year of bike (1990), but shouldn't the 10th digit in the vin reflect year?!?! A 4 would indicate 2004 which is not correct... just want to make sure before I start compiling some technical info. On that, does anyone have anything (should be 45HP model)? Can only find gsf400 info. Right now electrical info would help (image attached...!!)

    Appreciate any help


    IMAG4003.jpg IMAG4001.jpg
     
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    Shitelager, Jul 25, 2016
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  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Check the headstem area for the original frame number

    GSF250
    GJ74A 100001 - 0104332 December,1989 onwards

    GSF250N
    GJ74A 104333 - 114399 /April,1990

    GSF250ZM
    GJ74A 115400 - onward's /May,1991
     
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    my67xr, Jul 25, 2016
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  3. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    I have a heap of spares if you need anything
     
    kiffsta, Jul 25, 2016
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  4. Shitelager

    Shitelager Member

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    Thanks mate, may need to take you up on that one. Will start digging tonight and see what missing...
     
    Shitelager, Jul 26, 2016
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  5. Shitelager

    Shitelager Member

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    Ok started digging.... how about a wiring loom...!?!?! This one has bits going everywhere... if not what about a wiring diagram in English... RHS switch block (starter lights kill switch etc)... possibly coils... thanks mate, appreciate your help ask would ove to see this bike doing some laps...
     
    Shitelager, Jul 31, 2016
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  6. Shitelager

    Shitelager Member

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    Thanks to my67xr it's a gsf250n...
     
    Shitelager, Jul 31, 2016
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  7. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Capture.PNG

    technical data.JPG

    This site will help too:

    http://www1.synapse.ne.jp/s-hara/bandit/ban-spece.html

    Good luck. I have a bit of info but these bikes (in my opinion) are an absolute pain to get clear instructions on (can hardly find anything in Japanese too) and parts are well... let's just say @kiffsta will be your friend. Probably your only friend.
     
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    Last edited: Jul 31, 2016
    Joker, Jul 31, 2016
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  8. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    my67xr, Jul 31, 2016
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  9. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Oh yeh, I forgot about that. In one of my folders somewhere!
     
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    Joker, Aug 1, 2016
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  10. Shitelager

    Shitelager Member

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    Anyone know if a CDI off a 91 Across (32900-24D00) will work on a 90 GSF250N Bandit (32900-11D00)??? Look similar in the connections.... Thanks
     
    Shitelager, Aug 9, 2016
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  11. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    If the part numbers are different then you can be sure that the advance curves will be different and the answer will be no.
     
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    maelstrom, Aug 9, 2016
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  12. Shitelager

    Shitelager Member

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    Thanks, expected as much was just hoping for some divine intervention....!! Will keep trying....
     
    Shitelager, Aug 9, 2016
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  13. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Do you have a multimeter ?
    This page has all the detail's for testing your ignitor box about half way down (top one 89-92 ?)
    http://www1.synapse.ne.jp/s-hara/bandit/ban-spece.html
    If you find a reading that's out of spec then you can pull it apart and might be able to replace the componant
    Usually it's just a dead/faulty transistor, a cooked resistor or a faulty capacitor
    You should be able to find a new part for under $10 and solder it in

    [​IMG]
     
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    my67xr, Aug 9, 2016
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  14. Shitelager

    Shitelager Member

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    Thanks mate, spot on - just printed that info to check tonight... Opened up CDI and was a bit worried at the "Stain" in the photo.... Just doesn't look right. Was hoping to see a big black burnt section, but no luck... Will tick off all the other issues before I attack the CDI. Your thoughts on the below photo??? Just looked like something has leaked...???
    IMAG4024.jpg
     
    Shitelager, Aug 9, 2016
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  15. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Nah it look's like they spilt the glue on it while assembling it, sometime's they pour a little resin over thing's so they can tell if it's been tampered with too.
    The capactior's look ok, normally when the go they'll buldge on the silver top's, but they can still fail internally too.
    If you notice a reading that's out of spec then it you might be able to meausre them with the capacitor still soldered to the board, but you sometime's you might still need to unsolder them and measure them off the board to be sure.
    The capacitor's (black can looking part's with silver top's) should only give a reading one way
    You need a small (20w or 30 watt) soldering iron, solder and some solder wick to suck up the old solder so you are able to safely remove them without damaging the circuit board (eg pulling up the track's on the board)

    Alsdo check for dry soldered joint's, especially where the transistor's ( black square part with 2, 3 or 4 leg's) are soldered to the board.
    Heat up the soldered joint's and add a touch more solder so it cool's down and is shiny

    http://www.jaycar.com.au/3mm-economy-desolder-braid/p/NS3020
     
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    my67xr, Aug 9, 2016
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  16. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    No, the across and the bandit are different. It's a surprisingly common misconception they have interchangeable parts but they don't. Not that I'm aware of anyway, been down that road before.

    You might try a Bandit V... they're a bit more common than the earlier bandits but don't know about part numbers (can't remember heh)
     
    Joker, Aug 9, 2016
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  17. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    A trick I've done with computer graphics cards that have dry solder joints - bake them in the oven. Gives off bad fumes so not in the girlfriends/wife's kitchen. You use a baking tray and some balls of tin foil underneath the corners of the circuit board with the components facing UP. 200 degrees celsius for 5 minutes, but no more than that. Turn off oven, open door and allow to air cool. Should fix any dry joints. Won't fix failed caps or other failed components.
     
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    Linkin, Aug 9, 2016
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  18. Shitelager

    Shitelager Member

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    Perfect, thank you. Will need to do when she's not home as I don't want her to know I know how to use the oven...
    Also tested coils. Have multimeter reading 2.5 on primary side of left coil and 4.4 on primary side of right coil (tech specs said between 2.5-3.8), however get zero on secondary side of both... have tested from plug cap, and removed lead from coil, also triple checked meter is set to 20K range... will test with another meter at work tomorrow but can't see what I could be doing wrong... @kiffsta might need to call on your bandit spares....
     
    Shitelager, Aug 9, 2016
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  19. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    no probs, will look tomorrow
     
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    kiffsta, Aug 9, 2016
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  20. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    For secondary stick a probe in each lead with no cap on
     
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