Help Electrical Questions

Hope you don't want a quick answer for these question's.
I'll try and answer them over the next day or so

Question 3,
The excess charge from the regulator part of the reg/rect will just shunted to ground via an earth point, that's why they run hot.
In the case of a Mosfet type reg/rect it just turn's off the excess power as it goes into the reg/rect when it reach's a certain level (usually around 14.5v depending on what reg/rect).
Much better system as the stator also run's much cooler as well as the reg/rect.

 

Question 4:
Many manufacturers have included the ignition curve map in their factory service manuals or sometimes in the race kit data to show the difference between the standard TCI and the SP version. Companies like Ignitech make generic programmable TCI units. Without being able to log horsepower, knock, throttle position and fuel-air ratio it is all a bit pointless to try and make your own high performance TCI, in my humble opinion. Having said that, I will use an Ignitech unit my FZR400 because I have thrown away the EXUP system and it may come in handy.

 

question2 ...the starter solenoid isnt always fused, the 30 amp main is to protect the battery from a short and is set higher than the max current draw than the sum total of all freds.......12V9Ah battery will produce 90 amps for 6min or 9 amps for an hour

question 4....no idea if true,but Ive been told basically that the pickup is set fully advanced and the cdi unit delays the spark in relation to rpm..

 

Your questioning a teacher!
Watch out buddy, they will be after you.

 

Use an amp meter. http://www.stuttgartperformanceengineering.com/inductiveammater.html
The inductive type are dead easy to use, just sit them on the cable and you are done.
I have always tested charging systems with an amp meter first. In fact I have rarely ever used a voltmeter for that purpose.

 

As above an amp meter or watt meter
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-180a-watt-meter-and-power-analyzer.html

most DMM will handle moderate amps or you can get a clamp one for big amp loads
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/vici-cm2056-digital-lcd-ac-dc-clamp-multi-meter.html

You can also use ohms law if you have 2 of the 3 parameters, you can also read the label on the starter/motor

 

Unless you have an expensive DC Clamp Multimeter, you'll need to make your own.
A $50 DC Current clamp meter will do up to about 100A, when cranking the engine over the voltage and capacity of the Battery will drop, test it a second time and the Amp's will rise, could get up around 180A draw.
It's pretty cheap to make one a basic 200A adapter that you can use with your multimeter, just get a 200A Shunt from Jaycar for $20, and use your own multimeter.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/heavy-duty-current-shunt-200a-50mv/p/QP5417


To test the amp's drawn from the starter motor,
use a 200A Shunt wired in between your starter motor and the starter cable, mount the Shunt on a block of wood,
Don't touch the shunt with your finger's hand's when there is current running through it.
you measure the amperage on your multimeter with it set to 200 Ma (Milliamp's), then divide your reading by 10.

If your measurement is say 200 like the pic below, divided by 10 give's you 20A current drawn by the starter.

 

What about this one?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/371532032543

 

Look's like multimeter technology has increased a lot over the last few year's,
something like @Murdo and @Wozza linked above would have been close to or over $200 5 year's ago

 

If a teacher/lecturer can't explain something in term's most people can understand, then they don't understand it fully.

 

Yeah you can pick up a lot of functions on DMM these days for little money..That said build quality a bit on the side of buyer beware..last one I brought had issues and I found bits of wire and solder floating around inside the case...
The high end stuff is still expensive... Id love a few of the fluke units but don't have that sort of money laying around

 

Just quickly...
Question 3: the battery is a reservoir or ballast in the system, lets say after several attempts to start the engine have drained the battery, so voltage is low.
Engine starts - voltage out of stator -> through reg/rect. at idle may not be sufficient to charge the battery very quickly.
However as the engine speed increases voltage will increase and battery will charge at upper voltage level of reg/rect.
The Ballast/reservoir functionality is that there is an AC ripple across the stator phases, they're high frequency ripples, however they are still there - they are a tiny ripple out of the reg/rect- the battery stabilises both those ripples, acting like a capacitor, it also stabilises the voltage range keeping it between the batteries actual charged level and the charging level as engine revs change and the reg/rect voltage out varies.

So consider it like a bucket that the whole system draws it's electricity from keeping the voltage supply smooth and voltage range between acceptable levels.