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Help Electrical

Discussion in 'Tech Tips' started by Federal Agent at Large, Oct 4, 2019.

  1. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    Hi,
    Anyone here that could help me with a simplified diagram on how to change the 2 state (On/Off) ignition switch with a 3 state switch so I dont have to use lights on by default.

    Diagram attached, but scratching my head how/what I need to do to get such switch to work properly.

    If someone could outline what I need to do to get the "On" to just be On without lights and next On toggle With lights . These schemas is doing my head in so if someone could highlight which wires I need to work on and how/where they need to be connected to a 3 way toggle ignition switch it would be great.
     

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  2. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    This is the 3 stage ignition switch Im thinking of replacing the old 2 stage stock one with

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/86-05-S...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
     
  3. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    You will need the wiring diagram for the ignition switch too

    Could alway's run a separate headlight switch, just cut the headlight earth wire and fit a toggle switch, or extend the wiring to have it hidden?
     
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  4. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    Lets just assume its a 2 pole 3 way key switch for now.
    If I ran a separate switch for the headlight then my rear light would still be on all the time *at least thats how I read the wiring diagram* - Happy to look into adding a separate switch if needed, but still unsure which wires on the diagram I should focus on?
     
  5. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Why would you "NOT" want your lights to be on all the time... as long as your electrical system is up to it I see no downside in being able to be seen more easily.

    Many of the systems out there cut the headlight when the starter button is activated to ease the load on the battery.
    I am not sure but it might even be an ADR that lights are on all the time with ignition.. changing it may cause issues with rego..
     
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  6. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    My personal view on this is that its an utter dumb idea.
    If you ever end up with a weak battery on a bike that in addition dont have a kicker is that you could be stranded out in the bush one day.
    Sure you can try to jump start the bike if it dont have power enough to crank the engine, but it wont help the situation by draining the battery even more with lights on.
    As for some bypass using the starter button would be pretty useless if you end up in that situation (also a "feature" this bike dont have).
    Im not doing this for the purpose of not using headlights when out and about - its more to do with practical use and contingency if/when something goes wrong when out. Also like the idea of deciding my self if/when to use lights.
    Dont give a toss about "regulations" and "issues" with the rego when it comes to this.
     
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  7. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    The lights on rule was revoked in late 1990's.
    I agree with your idea of turning the lights off with a weak battery, and for this reason I fitted a small cheap voltmeter to keep an eye on what is happening power wise on mine. I suggest putting a switch in the wiring to the headlight as this would be easier than trying to wire in a combination ignition switch.
     
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  8. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    Already fitted a Gammatronix volt monitor on the bike - works well - but wont solve a drained battery when out and about.
    Can recommend this though - programmable and versatile gives you a really good indication *noticed that it can play up once the bike have been washed though - but goes back to normal after a while.

    https://gammatronixltd.com/epages/b...e94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe/Products/J

    As for the toggle on the headlight, this seem to be my only option - received some input elsewhere and was told that there's no way to turn off headlight, taillight and speedo dash on this bike - If I want to go stealth I would in effect loose my break light as well. So next best option would be to fall back on a toggle on the headlight alone.
    Shitty electrical design in my book :(
     
  9. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    So that toggle/rocker switch could be fitted to the black w/white stripe wire or to the white wire

    I used to run one on my FZR before i got the original switch working again, does help you conserve energy when starting the bike, and testing thing's when the engine isn't running etc
     
  10. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    Dont think thats correct! The B/W is a circuit connected with the jiffy and neutral switch.
    The advice Ive been given on this is, is to put a toggle on the O/R that feeds into Y/W - Makes sense since this is a closed circuit to the high/low beam following the diagram
    OR feed.jpg
     
  11. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The only difference that doing it your way will make is it'll switch off the power to both the high/low beam's and the tail light circuit.
    The way i mentioned only turn's off the headlight, if you cut the black w/white stripe wire between the loom and headlight it won't disconnect all the other black w/white wire's
     
  12. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    Nop - it will NOT switch off the taillight - if that was the case I would be dead happy - as it stands it simply cant be done using these circuits.
    The taillight is on a different circuit tied in to the break light - so if that was the case I would also loose my break light

    If Im wrong, please outline how this is possible ? The circuit I been pointed to (O/R) will only affect the headlight
     
  13. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Ok, i just looked at the wiring diagram again, the tail light is powered by the brown wire from the ignition switch

    So the way you were told to do it and the way i said to do it both do the same thing if you put the switch in the black w/white wire, if you put it on the white wire before the headlight (low beam) it will only turn off the low beam

    I would rather cut the wire from the loom to the headlight than to stuff around with wiring from the ignition switch
     
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  14. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    Thats pretty much what tapping into the O/R would do as I read this diagram.
    As for the taillight - it cant be done - if you tap into it you will break other circuits affecting the break light as well - dont want to do that.
    Ideally I'd like front, rear AND speedo dash on one toggle - but as been pointed out - simply cant be done without messing with the entire schema.
    Would like to bypass the jiffy safty switch though *permanently* i.e no switch - just another switch that one day will go bad and for that to happen when on the road is just plain silly since everything else works.
    So if you have ideas on sorting this, then happy to take it onboard - Initial thought were to simply short out the B/W and G wires, but not sure about the diode shown on the switch?

    jiffy switch.jpg
     
  15. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Is the jiffy safty switch a WA thing ? side stand switch
    Never heard it called that before
     
  16. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    lol - yes its the side stand (commonly known as a jiffy, and the switch would commonly be known as a safety switch *since u cant start the engine with it down if you have a gear in without holding in the clutch and more ...- these added safety gadgets is just silly and only serve one purpose = yet more point of failures - this bike have like a myriads of built in point of failures *gear protection, clutch protection, jiffy stand... Surprised there's no rear chain lube protection built in - sheesh
     
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    Last edited: Oct 6, 2019
  17. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Same as most other bike's of the same era, but i've never had a problem with them, just keep them lubed up with silicon grease in the switch contact's
     
  18. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    But what if I want to disable this "feature" ? Am I on the right track bridging the B/W and G wires along that circuit or is it more to it?
     
  19. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah just use a 1N5408 Diode (.40c ea at Jaycar) with a spade terminal soldered to each end and fit it where the side stand switch was plugged into.
    When you solder the ends on, place some heatshrink over the diode and ends of the terminals and heat it up to to shink, this will stop it from shorting out anywhere
    The Diode will last longer than you.

    You could run a DPDT switch on your headlight wire and tail light wire, that will cut power to both circuit's when the switch is in the off position.
    But keep in mind that running an extra switch is another possible point of failure too
     
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    Last edited: Oct 6, 2019
  20. Federal Agent at Large

    Federal Agent at Large Active Member

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    thanks
     

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