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Project 3LN1 Restoration

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by camarda, Mar 22, 2020.

  1. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Spring preload is different from spring rate, I seem to recall either reading, or actually measuring, I did have a convoluted measurement contraption to try and measure the FZR springs, and I got something in the range of .45kg/mm from memory, which is incredibly soft

    The preload adjusters are a good idea - remember to check the threads on the top of the tubes as I seem to recall @my67xr found that his were different from the the first set that he purchased - makes me wonder if there are two available thread pitches in the top tubes
     
  2. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Here is a picture of the adjuster fitted to the fork.
    [​IMG]

    These are brand new fork tubes purchased from XCite bikes and weirdly they have the fine thread where OEM have the coarser thread, so not an issue.
    I have the standard caps as well.
    They have new internals, piston, bushes as well as seals.
    Let me know if you are interested.
    Check on @my67xr profile for the details when he set his bike up... no special springs... just a change of oil and the pre-load adjusters.. probably all you need for the road.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
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    Last edited: May 9, 2020
  3. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I am also in the 65-70kg range
     
  4. camarda

    camarda Active Member

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    Well ****, another hurdle, lucky I took off the front wheel. Turns out the crash was worse than just breaking a fairing. Cracked front fork, now I’m worried there’s other damage. Going to need to strip down the whole thing now.

    [​IMG]
    I’m buying another 3LN1 for $450, non runner, should be able to get some parts off it and hopefully swap the front fork on.

    Sorry if this is a vague question but to ease my mind and make sure I don’t miss anything what should I really check over now. Must have been a substantial hit to crack it like that. Would the steering head in the triple clamp be bent. Cheers.
     
  5. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I don't think that's crash damage, that an overzealous tightening of the pinch bolt - remember to always curse the previous owner, in the middle of the night, on a full moon by howling

    I've got a pair of FZR250 forks with repainted lowers but some pitting of the chrome stanchions, so if your chrome stanchions are OK; straight & unpitted - then play swaps - there yours free, but not worth posting so you may need to wait until they open the border and I can get back into QLD

    Disassemble the forks, then check for straightness and take it from there.
     
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  6. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    May just be from an overtightened pinch bolt or 2

    Or as on my ZXR when I (under) torqued mine it cracked just like that but it has damage from what to me looks like a few gutter hits to help the cause and/or some over zealous POs

    crack.png

    I would just use the whole front end from the new spares bike , including the triple trees .... replace /grease the steering head bearings as u go
     
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  7. camarda

    camarda Active Member

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    Hey guys, sorry for the extremely late response, I haven't been active for a while, fully bogged down in Uni work, the semester is nearly over though so it will be full steam ahead on the resto soon. My litetek seal kit has fully arrived and I almost have everything I need. Good to hear its not crash damage, that would be legendary if I could grab those lowers off you @ruckusman . There is some pitting on my fork uppers but its not where they travel to I don't think, will need to send some pics when i get time and also check if they are straight. Thanks again.
     
  8. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    @camarda - unfortunately I beat a hasty retreat from Victoria where the forks are, I might potentially be returning in the next few days, but that's up in the air at the moment, if I do we'll sort out the details then

    FWIW you should be able to check if yours are straight or appreciably bent on a decent kitchen counter top don't get caught by the missus though
     
  9. camarda

    camarda Active Member

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    No worries @ruckusman. There’s no rush, my last exam is 1st of July and then it’s full steam ahead on the restoration. Hopefully by then you’ll be back. I’ll check if the forks are straight soon and will make sure the missus doesn’t see any dirt on the bench hahaha. I took the steering head off and the bearings seem pretty old. If anyone has the specs for them that would be helpful so I can grab some new ones, otherwise, I’ll try figure out an equivalent from the parts manual or see if Yamaha has the original part. Once again, appreciate your incredible help throughout this, I wouldn’t have been able to do it without you. The first ride is approaching ever so soon and I’m excited.
     
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  10. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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  11. driftwood

    driftwood Well-Known Member

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    I ordered extra JPM11 capscrews - 2 of my originals had dissolved. It's gotta be done tight enough to pull in the slide housing and compress the 1AE-14147 1.3mm O-ring down to 1mm (https://litetek.co/Guide_MikuniBDST_JetHousingAssy.html pic7), so I used a bowl screw with nut spacer in emulsion tube to pull the plastic flush, then shoved 28+mm champagne cork down to hold it while I swapped over to a capscrew, just over finger tight.
     
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  12. camarda

    camarda Active Member

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    Hey guys managed to get the brakes finished and took it for a test ride today. Has had some issues. The fuel levels are all set properly and the jets, needles and needle positions are all correct. The inside of the carbs are also clean.

    Firstly, the bike hasn’t been registered since 2005 and it has only ever revved in neutral while testing. It can comfortably hit 18k rpm in neutral and it sounds great. Although there is a bit of fuel smell. Initially, it would stall when put into gear. After a while I assume the clutch freed and it could engage nicely because I took off and rode it around my street. It stalled a few times under load and failed to idle. I set the idle quite knob high and this fixed the issue and I was able to get into second gear however the bike didn’t really want to go past 10-15k and it surged quite badly. Like it would give power and then have none and then power again and then none. I wasn’t going very fast or far from my street (no rego) but at some points it had no surging and rode fine but still seemed to have a a lower rev limit. It also went up the extremely steep hills in my area fine.

    I have a few suspicions.
    Firstly my fuel lines are quite long and tangled as I had the tank out of the bike for testing before. Secondly, after stalling or loosing power the pump will prime for a while as if it’s filling the carbs when you turn on and off the switch. So maybe the carbs aren’t getting filled at a high enough rate(tubing or pump)

    I will also need to check the fuel level and float heights again so I’m 100% sure.

    Also, I turned the mixture screw 3 turns out I’m pretty sure. The bike varies idle speed a lot while idling. Sometimes it seems like it’s chugging and then with a rev it will stop and sit at 6k rpm consistently.

    The needles also didn’t seem worn but it’s impossible to check the emulsion tubes. Maybe they are worn.

    What should I do @ruckusman @GreyImport @my67xr
     
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    Last edited: Jan 22, 2021
  13. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Well-Known Member

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    @camarda interesting you’ve written up what you’ve just written. Reason being I have a couple fzrs. One running mint and never had an issue until today - I tried starting it and didn’t go. Waited and tried again, fired and ran but not well at all. Sounded like it was on 3 cylinders - confirmed with an infrared gun. Was extremely angry just wanted to go for a ride(was in my riding gear as well) anyway long story short I tried swapping spark plugs on the cylinder which wasn’t firing with a plug from my other bike and all of a sudden it started running a lot better. Still not 100 percent but running just how you described. I’ll try buying a new set of plugs tomorrow and test.
    Just an idea, maybe your plugs are due a change and or there’s an ignition or coil issue.
     
  14. camarda

    camarda Active Member

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    I put new plugs when I refreshed all the engine fluids and rebuilt the carbs. Maybe the coils are weak/having an issue but it sounds like it’s definitely running on 4 cylinders. I have a suspicion it’s because I haven’t put the air box on yet nor have I tightened the carbs into the boots that go on the intake manifold so maybe some air is slipping past. I’ll test that in the next few days and see. I ran out of battery down the road so the bike is in my mates front yard for now haha.

     
  15. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    NUMBER ONE: FIT AIRBOX & NEW AIR CLEANER

    I had to read everything to remember where you are.
    The pilot circuit on these carbs is touchy. When you synch the carbs (have you done that?), you are setting the throttle butterflies to give an equal vacuum. However, the pilot screws will also change the idle speed. Which means you are back to checking the synch again.
    'n' turns out is nothing more than a guide on a fuel screw, which these are. On an air screw it is fine. My gut feeling is this is where you are now. Get the butterfly synch & pilot screws in the right place and you will be well on your way. I always suggest using a Morgan Carbtune for a manometer and read this https://litetek.co/Guide_FuelScrews.html
    Cheers
    Blair
     
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  16. camarda

    camarda Active Member

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    Thanks so much Blair, I haven’t done this yet. This is likely the issue. Although does it also explain the surging? Or might that be due to a combination of no airbox and air cleaner and the carbs not being screwed tight to the intake boots. I guess I’ll try tomorrow and find out.

    Also how do I sync the carbs. I understand the guide you sent but how do you sync the butterfly position ?

    Also, does the fact that they are 3LN3 carbies matter on a 3LN1 engine or are all the engines the same?

    @maelstrom
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2021
  17. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    To be honest - surprised it ran anywhere neak 10K without an airbox
     
  18. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    I used to use mercury tubes but they are all banned now I think.

    Lots of people have their own preferences. I think the gauges are pointless because they flutter so much.
     
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  19. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Your suspicion is likely correct air leaks make bikes run like ****. Surprised it ran at all without the carb boots clamped up.

    You've done a lot of work to get this far, its things like this that will let ya down - pay attention to the details.
     
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  20. camarda

    camarda Active Member

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    Guys I’m at my wits end, I spent all day ******* around and I feel like I have gone 30 steps backwards now.

    I tightened the carbs properly to the boots and installed the air box and air filter properly.

    I swapped the fuel pump over and this new one is much nicer and actually pumps a consistent flow rather than spluttering air and fuel like the other one (I didnt realise that wasn’t normal ).

    I tried to bench sync the carbs using a needle as a feeler gauge and got them all in sync as close as possible before I get a manometer to get them perfect.

    After putting them back on the bike sounds like **** now and is burbly with the occasional pop. Furthermore it can barely even idle now and won’t rev at all. There is smoke coming back through cylinder 1 when taking off the airbox cover to check and it just doesn’t work.

    It is incredibly frustrating that I went from an almost working bike that could rev all the way up and work fine (other than the surging, likely air leak and fuel pump) to one that barely works at all now.

    I wish I never bench synced it and just installed airbox and new fuel filter and tested first as that’s all I have changed for the carby to have this issue now.

    Is it also possible that something in the engine is now broken.

    sorry for the long message and thanks again

    @ruckusman @beano @maelstrom @my67xr
    @GreyImport

    @Murdo
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2021
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