https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/my-90-fzr250-3ln3.8776/ http://litetek.co/Guide_Mikuni_BDST_Fuel_Level.html
Your 3LN1 carby's have different jetting and float height's than mine See number 3 below, I reckon the Float Height is causing the bog, so try setting the float height half a mm lower than it currently is set at Then try it out, warm the engine up and tune the mixture screw's to suit With the float height set too low it'll feel flat when you rev it, with it set too high it'll give you a hesitation/bog Here is a CV tuning guide from factoryPro Important notes about CV carb tuning To properly tune, you MUST: 1. Have selected the BEST main jet for full throttle power (not just a "good" main jet - we mean "the BEST main jet" for power at high rpm). That eliminates the common severe tweaking of the midrange and lower tuning ranges to compensate for a "wrong" main jet. 2. Then - select the BEST needle height / clip position for power at FULL THROTTLE / MIDRANGE after selecting the BEST main jet - That almost eliminates weird problems at cruise caused by tweaked needle heights that were required because the main jet wasn't correct....... 3. Then, adjust the BEST Float Height for BEST FULL THROTTLE / LOW rpm (many Honda's excluded because floats are not adjustable) - You should be able to apply FULL THROTTLE at LOW RPM in TOP gear without ANY misfire of bogging or stumble....... If you follow that order, you will have: 1. Best topend. 2. Best midrange. 3. Best low rpm power. Then - all you have left is dialing in the pilot circuit - i.e. mixture screw and pilot jet size - That's IT - Don't tweak needle heights and throw away full throttle midrange to try to fix a cruise issue (Unless you want to)
ok i've redone the float levels and they are all within a mm of 9.2 mm above the line. its taking throttle way better even when cold. should I now wind the mixture screws in to the standard setting?
I mark the edge of the casing when the screws are turned in full, to help as a guide for 1 complete turn etc ... and also mark the edge of the screwdriver .... but that might just be old age creeping in. Set them to the 3LN1 base settings of 2 turns out, then just adjust by small increments as mentioned before .... every bike/carb is different
I think the 9.2mm and 10.5mm fuel level's are a good base setting, but every carby can be different still Same thing with the mixture screw's base setting of 2 turn's out and 3 turn's out. In the end if it's not responsive off idle or has a slight bog/hesitation then i'd check the float's and lower them a touch if needed. Then warm up the bike to normal operating temperature and tune the mixture screw's to find the highest idle speed As i mentioned before, my FZR love's the mixture screw's all set leanish, so at the point the idle speed start's to drop, which on my bike is 1.75 turn's out
Realistically you dont need to run resistors... You will need a LED Flasher can (cheap eBay one is fine) and if you only have 1 light on the dash for the indicators you can do the mod that is shown in this thread https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/across-indicator-relay.9233/ If you have a left and right globe in the dash just use the LED flasher can... much better than running resistors as they do get quite hot plus it saves a bit of power.. not really an issue with the FZR but on old Honda's every watt helps..
Remove the dash, 4x 10mm headed nut's hold it in from the side you look at it and the remove the speedo cable I have these led bulb's in the front on my bike and this flasher can (adjustable flash speed) https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10Pcs-1...556953&hash=item41de6522ec:g:4TEAAOSwve1avISo https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Relay-M...808556&hash=item441a763a5e:g:0uYAAOSwlJ1au1SX
cool. got them on the way. so cheap. also does anybody know where i can source a second hand r6 rear shock for the conversion?
If your on facebook try the group "Track Junkies sales" and ask if anyone has one https://www.facebook.com/groups/395188990584795/ Or theres been some in the past on ebay ... but from the USA ... just need to request a 'real' shipping price https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Yamaha-...284144?hash=item3afe950cb0:g:mX4AAOSwTIhaYm3y Just make sure it has this on the bottom end
That flasher can is a ripper. I used it on the Across, so cheap and adjustable as well. It is a good buy. Good luck with finding an R6 shock, they do turn up every now and then. You will probably want the fork adjusters as well to be able to set the bike up properly at both ends. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
https://tstindustries.com/Ohlins-TTX-GP-Rear-Shock-Absorber-for-Yamaha-YZF-R6-2006-2017.html Here are some of the cheaper shock's off ebay https://www.ebay.ca/itm/08-TRU-16-Y...ash=item41dde97f85:g:60QAAOSwkvFai11c&vxp=mtr Not sure if the silver spring is for a heavier rider ? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/08-09-10-11...ash=item441addd2f6:g:yUsAAOSweCNawlfl&vxp=mtr Black spring ? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/2008-2015-Y...ash=item2aa43838ec:g:BewAAOSwnVZatWjO&vxp=mtr https://www.ebay.ca/itm/YAMAHA-YZFR...ash=item33e659ada8:g:dMoAAOSw58Vamrvr&vxp=mtr
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It would be interesting to see what differences there are in the rocker arm between the FZR250 and the R6R. the one I bought (now on the Hammertone Flyer Project X) was from an R6R..although I think all models 06 and up were R6R's but I could be wrong