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Help FZR250 2KR Water pump replacement + Clutch replacement

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Brandon Otte, Apr 2, 2020.

  1. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

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    Very good point, I'll definitely be methodical. I'm fairly certain it's not a head gasket as there's no signs of it.
    I noticed there was a lot of built up corrosion in the housing, made me think it'll be the same throughout the cooling system.
    When I replaced the original thermostat housing I drained all the coolant and put it all back in, was thorough in making sure it was bled properly.
    Is there a flush I could run through it?
     
  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    One has to question why a previous owner butchered the thermostat. All the thermostat does is control flow at cold temperatures. It opens at 82 degrees and lets coolant flow around the system.

    I would suggest checking the condition of the water pump impeller (take the cover off, not the whole pump) and make sure it's not loose on the shaft, or corroded away. I would replace the radiator cap just to rule it out was a problem. Check and tighten hoses and clamps. Run the bike with the radiator cap off (from cold) and see if you get bubbles. If you do, you have combustion leaking into your cooling system, which means a head gasket at minimum.

    If it is losing coolant with no obvious leaks, check the weep hole of the water pump (it may be blocked).

    You can take a sample of the oil and drip some on cardboard, if contaminated it the coolant will spread out and oil will stay in the centre. If it's straight oil you will be able to tell.

    FZR's have o-rings under the cylinders to seal the water jacket from the crankcase. On one of mine, the o-ring was broken and I had contaminated oil, along with a blown head gasket.
     
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  3. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

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    Will check the impeller, is the gasket on the cover easy enough to remake? Can I use a generic car radiator cap of the same pressure rating and size? I've checked all hoses and clamps and they don't leak or feel blocked up. On the 2KR the coolant runs through part of the bike frame down towards the pump, maybe a restriction there or somewhere else...
    Yup have run it with the cap off and there's no bubbles, the coolant is free of oil and the oil free of coolant.
    It's not loosing any coolant either. Is that weep hole on the bottom of the pump housing, can I check it with the cover off?
    Mmmm I hope it's not the o-rings, did you have to take the engine apart or are they accessible externally or with the head off.

    Thanks @Linkin
     
  4. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

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    Maybe I'm mistaking overheating for a misreading gauge - this has all come about because when I flick my lights on the gauge rises considerably. If my memory serves me right I'm pretty sure with the lights off the gauge reads half way up.

    Perhaps the rectifier is to blame? Hard to say and can only mind storm without having the bike in front of me to test.
     
  5. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Check to see if it is overcharging - voltmeter on the battery as you rev it up. Generally anything over 15 volts is too much and causes damage.

    Get a cheap infrared thermometer gun and check the temperature directly on the radiator and cylinders where the water jacket is. You can go around and check all the hoses and water pump as well.
     
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  6. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

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    Excellent thank you!
     
  7. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

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    Hi again,

    With regard to clutch replacement, is the FZR250 as straight forward as this R1 in the video?

     
  8. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    It was a long time ago and I replaced the clutch plates in about an hour and most of that time was taken up cutting a new gasket as the installed one ripped on removal.

    There is a trick where the pressure plate with the springs and screws through it needs to go on one way because it's keyed

    Don't get caught trying to tighten it into place if it doesn't want to go down, that means it's on wrong
     
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  9. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

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    Hi again everyone, so only only 3 days until I can get to my bike again and check everything over again thoroughly starting with checking the volt reading at the battery with revs.

    Am itching in my skin so will let you all know how it turns out.

    After checking the voltage I plan on flushing the cooling system and go from there.

    Thanks again everyone!:D
     
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  10. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Just like 3 more sleeps till Santa
     
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  11. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Well-Known Member

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    Also make sure you dont just replace the friction discs but also the springs. They do send you down a rabbit hole , everytime I've changed clutches I've found the discs were basically new but the springs had sagged below the minimum spec and causing the slipping issues
     
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  12. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

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    Yup will do thanks!:minigun:
     
  13. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

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    Hey that got me wondering, shall I replace the springs before replacing the friction discs and see if that does the trick?
    I mean the springs are the first to come out and I can inspect the discs while doing them.
    Just an idea :)
     
  14. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    If you haven't yet purchased any parts, then it makes perfect sense to measure the springs, friction discs and steels before hitting the buy button

    Pretty sure all of those wear limits are in the manuals.

    Pinging @GreyImport because with his encyclopedic knowledge that usually means he can link to the relevant manual faster then I can conduct a search
     
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  15. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Heres the specs for the FZX (Zeal) as they are in English and would assume them to be the same as FZR

    FZX250 Clutch specs.png

    My approach (and what I did with mine way back ) would be to reuse the steels if they wernt "burnt" and replaced the fibres and springs with an EBC kit


    https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/motorcycle-clutch/yamaha/fzr-250/1987/45934

    Read this page and the next of my FZR thread as theres posts and pics when I did my clutch

    https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/my-fizzer.872/page-37


    https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/changing-clutch-plates.8105/

    http://www.rpmmoto.com.au/Store/Clu...250-1989---1993-Ferodo-clutch-friction-p.aspx
     
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  16. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

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    Hi again everyone! I haven’t been online for a while - too busy riding
    So I’ve got a new set of clutch friction plates and ‘heavy duty’ springs so will be doing the clutch this weekend.
    I’ll be replacing the oil and filter just because I don’t want to lie the bike over while I do the clutch.
    I have asked about what oils before so won’t bring that up again, but, the question I have, is the oil filter something you’re familiar with? I haven’t tried looking for it on the bike but assumed it was a standard covered filter which just screws on.

    From my supplier he’s recommended the following oil and filter:

    https://www.moto1.nz/products/putoline-tm-super-dx4-semi-4t-10w40-4lt

    https://www.moto1.nz/products/mfo145

     
  17. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    The oil filter is underneath, the exhaust realistically needs to be removed for access, it is a bit of a PITA.

    IIRC the cover has three screws holding it on

    That filter is fine, I know it is the correct one for the 3LN1, someone with a 2KR can chime in to confirm
     
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  18. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

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    So does that mean the filter cover is re-usable and only the filter element needs replacing?
    I do need to sort that exup valve as it’s rattling a lot at idle.
     
  19. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  20. Brandon Otte

    Brandon Otte Active Member

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    0050D9F5-5CE3-4879-A704-AE8ED41ECED7.jpeg E721EFD3-F678-4C5F-8538-3EF463E5CD7B.jpeg E0741C0A-46DE-434B-96AF-1130F5F0BF86.jpeg 8878ED75-D1CB-4299-81B1-D390DF1D8868.jpeg 0F887362-E412-4441-86CC-C33AEB7EB9B6.jpeg C240B411-E90E-4B87-B021-6EC347C051D4.jpeg 253AABCB-C652-4762-AADB-2F5B3215138D.jpeg 1EC0ABE6-2A7B-4F89-8640-045D1A44DCD3.jpeg 7DA313DA-C466-4856-9836-DABC96B44EA3.jpeg Hi everyone - long time!

    Just thought I’d update what’s been happening with my bike in NZ.

    So since my last post I’ve replaced the clutch friction discs and springs, a quick oil change and have put 1500kms on her.
    As usual I have questions :)
    Firstly regarding the clutch; since replacing it I’ve noticed it will slip under any load for the first few kms then grip up well. I tend to cruise for 10 minutes or so before sending it and don’t have an issue.
    Strange?
    It’s a standard cork clutch and a did soak the discs overnight before installing.
    The springs I’ve used are ‘heavy duty’ claiming they’re 15% stiffer than factory. Comparing the original to new there’s a noticeable difference in thickness and height.

    As for the oil change; I had my eyes set on the Motul 7100 full synthetic, but, after talking to the staff at my local bike shop I went with the Motul 5100 mineral oil. Reason is they suggested the 7100 is a lot thinner and with an old bike, especially the ticky Yamaha, it’ll be beneficial to use a thicker oil which will dampen down any noises and fill those tolerances.
    I honestly just agreed with them because it was $30 cheaper. I must admit since changing the oil the engine is a lot quieter!

    I didn’t change the oil filter because i have to remove the exhaust - do you guys know if those washers, gaskets and bolts will need to be replaced if I remove them?
    I plan on removing the exhaust soon and repair the EXUP valve to stop that rattling.
    Here’s some photos of the clutch and springs, the basket does have fairly deep valleys and when I first start the bike in gear it’ll try till forward, once I depress the clutch a few times it seems to free up. I just wasn’t keen to file the basket in the bike and put filings all through the oil.
     
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