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Pinned FZR250 - How to check & set valve timing (applies to IHX series engines, 2KR, 3LN, Zeal, etc)

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Linkin, Jul 5, 2015.

  1. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Firstly you need to remove:

    Fuel tank
    Airbox
    Carburetors
    Radiator
    Rubber engine cover
    Spark plugs/leads
    Stator cover
    Valve cover
    Misc. wiring
    Removing the side engine mounts from the frame also aids with space/clearance when torquing up bolts etc, but is not absolutely necessary.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The first step is to rotate the stator until it lines up on the T mark like so:

    [​IMG]


    When the stator is lined up with the T, check the timing dots on the camshafts and cam caps, on the left hand side of the engine (opposite end than the stator. Right hand side in photos) Both dots on each cam should line up more or less perfectly. Note that on the 3LN3 engine, the dots did line up perfectly. On the 3LN7 engine (which uses Zeal cams) they did not line up perfectly. You can see this in the photo below. Both are still the correct timing.

    [​IMG]

    If the T on the stator is lined up, but you can't see the dots on the cams, rotate the stator 360 deg and then everything should line up. It wasn't lined up because that was TDC of the exhaust stroke for Cylinder 1.

    If the timing has been done incorrectly previously then the dots on the camshafts will not line up with the dots on the camshaft caps, when the T on the stator is also aligned with the timing mark. In this situation, line up the timing marks on the crank/stator and then carefully remove the camshafts.

    There should also be 6 links between the top of each camshaft sprocket at any time.

    [​IMG]

    Once the timing is at TDC for Cyl 1 on the compression stroke (when all the timing marks line up), take out the cam chain tensioner. That will free the slack on the intake side.

    After that, unbolt the centre 4 bolts on the cam caps and remove the little cover for the cam chain.

    [​IMG]

    Then you should be able to lift the slack of the cam chain on the intake cam, and take the chain off the cam sprocket.

    Then remove all the cam caps. Keep them in order. They are labelled I1 and I2, E1 and E2. I1 and E1 go on the left hand side of the engine (which is the right hand side in the photo), same side as the timing dots. Take out the little dowels as well.

    Once the cams are out, that's it. You can rotate the crank freely.

    For putting everything back together...

    1) Position stator/crank on the T mark.


    [​IMG]


    2) Insert exhaust cam. Ensure that the slack is taken out of the chain on the exhaust side. The cam has to be installed so that the timing dot is out by 1 tooth of the sprocket, in an anti-clockwise direction, otherwise once all the slack is taken out by the tensioner, the exhaust cam timing will be incorrect.


    3) Lift cam chain and install intake cam. Ensure that 6 links are between the top of each camshaft sprocket. Ensure that there is no slack on the cam chain on the exhaust side. All the slack should be on the intake side where the cam chain tensioner goes.


    4) Install the dowels and camshaft caps. Torque for the cam caps is 10NM. As the bolt torque pushes the cap and camshaft down, it will expose more slack in the cam chain. Ensure that the chain does not slip off the camshafts. Use zip ties if necessary.


    5) Install the cam chain tensioner body. Ensure that the ratchet has been pushed all the way in (not extended). Install tensioner spring and bolts. Rotate the stator slightly so that the cam chain ratchet extends (you will hear it clicking)


    6) Rotate crank/stator once until the timing mark lines up, and then do it once more (720 deg. total rotation). Ensure that there is no binding when rotating the crank.


    7) Check camshaft timing marks once the T is aligned on the stator. In my case, the exhaust one was correct but the intake cam was out by 1 tooth anticlockwise. This is why you initially install the exhaust camshaft 1 tooth anticlockwise to compensate in advance. It is caused by the tensioner taking up the slack of the chain.


    8) Repeat step 6. Rotate crank/stator 720 deg.


    9) Check timing again. If the timing is still out out (most likely on the intake cam), align the T on the stator. Remove the cam chain tensioner, and then loosen the intake camshaft caps. Lift the cam chain off the intake cam, and rotate it as required. It's okay to do so as that's where all the chain slack is, so it's easy and won't harm anything.

    10) Check the torque of the camshaft cap bolts. They should be set to 10NM and no more. Make sure to install the cam chain guide in the center. It sits on top of the camshaft caps.
     
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  2. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I spent a significant amount of time today going through this over and over again with my 3LN3 to ensure I had everything right and see what I came up with. A few thoughts from my experiences...

    1. First up I tried several times to do it with the exhaust "one tooth out" but it didn't work any of those times so I am convinced it is not required. The way I did it was put the crank to #1 TDC then rock it back and forth at the stator with the cam chain in my fingers to ensure the exhaust side was nice and tight. Then I put the exhaust cam in, draped the cam chain over, locked the cam down with the caps and everything was fine. On my several rotations and iterations it was not once out of time (either itself or relative to the intake cam).

    2. I couldn't get the dots to line up absolutely 100% perfectly. They seem to be about 1-2 degrees out but in the same direction on both cams. I don't know if this is wrong or right... I'm hoping it's right because everything else I tried either made no difference or made it worse. Interested in the opinions of others on the accuracy of this @Linkin @Grasshopper @GreyImport (photos below).

    3. On the timing line-up:

    *Moving one tooth either direction made the dots line up less accurately.
    *Trying to do it with the crank rotated 360 degrees made no difference (I didn't think there was a difference between the two cycles of #1 TDC on the crank anyway and I think this proved to be correct. The "compression" and "exhaust" stroke are determined by the position of the crank relative to the cam position only. So without the cams in place, for all intents and purposes, cylinder #1 TDC is exactly the same on either rotation of the crank. I tried timing both rotations a couple of times each and got the same result on the alignment of the dots.

    Here is the T-Mark Line Up

    IMG_0315.JPG

    The cams when timed (the intake one looks worse than it actually is, the 2nd photo below is it unchanged from a different angle):

    IMG_0325.JPG

    IMG_0326.JPG

    Crappy iphone pics... the damn phone is so much worse at it than my S3. Oh well /whinge
     
  3. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    That timing is fine, the 3LN7 motor is the same, they don't line up absolutely perfect.
     
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