Figured out the valve. Got a core out of a bike tyre. Took ages to find a tap that would work but an m5 is close enough for it to get a few revs in with a bit of brutalising. Will report back with results
Tester didnt really work sadly. Didnt hold pressure but they were all similar compression anyway. New piece of evidence though, got some tape over the intakes with the motor out to do the valves. As i turn over the engine, the tape gets sucked in when the intakes are open, as you can see in the photo. This happens on all cylinders but 4. I'll continue investigating...
Hope everyone's ready for a good laugh, problem very probably solved. I forgot to tighten one of the rubber intake boot bolts when I took them off like 3 months ago to clean. Tightened it down and the tape gets sucked in just like the rest. Feel like a bit of an idiot but happy it's something small lol
Easy mistake to make, especially given the time frame. Hopefully it sorts the issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Hey that's a win in anyone's language, especially as you ran the whole gamut of possible causes including bent valves and dud rings IIRC you were preparing (mentally) to remove the head suspecting the worst
Current to do list for the motor is to readjust the valves because theres still a few I'm not satisfied with. Got the new regulator rectifier today and it looks pretty nice. Those plugs are bloody expensive though, the shipping and exchange rates are killing me. Is there anywhere to get them in Australia?
Vetriq in NSW sell them, ph 0432 378 954 http://www.carmoelectronics.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4318_1083_4776
Ironically, the cheapest place to get the plugs from cost more than the entire reg/rec, I went with this place, https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html, best price I could find. Also realised how stupid i can be from last time i did the valve clearance, I got the math backwards and increased the shim thickness rather than decrease it. Lesson is, triple check the numbers and check the clearance again BEFORE you reinstall the engine...
Scratch that, a certain virus has made shipping from the states bloody expensive. These guys have the next best price, its an updated link that @my67xr posted; https://www.vectriqparts.com.au/product/connector-set-fh012aa/
Bit of an update, not much has been done. Waiting for parts, ordered 4 new spark caps, fork seals, and other bits and pieces. Waiting for better weather to be bothered heading to the shed. Gotta track down some original indicators, do some exhaust header tinkering to get it to seal to the muffler, then close to rwc time
Today I learnt how not to reassemble a fork. Ended up dremeling out the brand new seal because it got stuck on the wrong side of a bushing, and I'll have to replace another different bushing thanks to me not thinking things through. The new parts hunt begins again...
I have a set of fully refurbished FZR forks for sale if you are interested.... brand new Inners, new bushes, new seals and dust caps... all for the price of the new Inners... ($200). they also have the adjustable pre-load tops on them. PM me if you need more info.
No, mine are the 35mm I believe. Thank you very much for the offer though, appreciate it. Once I get the bushing out I'll take it down to my local shop and pray they have a replacement. Then should be right with a new set of fork seals. Also a set of cheap ebay seals i got for an old project have dust seals that are almost identical to the FZR ones. Probably way cheaper than branded or genuine ones so thats a small bonus
Bushing is available from Yamaha, however 10 week backorder is a problem. Puts me about 2 weeks behind when I want it registered. So, anyone got some old 2kr forks they wanna sell?
If I have the right part number they show as available at Impex, but don't know if they are shipping to Aus yet. https://en.impex-jp.com/parts/new/search.html?partNo=1HX-23125-01